Category Archives: Walking Prague

Day Two Hundred and Seventy-Six My walk in Prague: Day Four: Meeting with the head of Czech Tourism office, touring Vysehrad and Vinohrady and Cooking class May 31st, 2023

I really enjoyed this morning as we were allowed to sleep in a bit from class and did not have to meet up until 9:00am. Everyone in the class seemed to like that. We were able to grab a quick bite and then we had to meet with the head of the Czech Tourism Office, CEO Jan Herget. After the visit, we were going to have lunch at his restaurant/boat on the river and then an afternoon of paddle boarding. Not a bad way to spend some class time while learning what tourists might want to experience in Prague.

Our group shot with CEO of Czech Tourism Jan Herget (he is standing right of me. I am in the middle in the green polo).

We got to the office rather early and our host was a bit late (I kept thinking we were starting these mornings too early). Meeting the head of the whole country’s tourism board I was thinking I would be meeting this stiff guy in a blue suit but Mr. Herget could not have been more laid back. I think he rode his motorcycle over to the meeting.

We all thought he was a great. He had a PowerPoint presentation on his goals for the country and wanted to really build on the success that they were having. After visiting the outside cities, I thought the direction of the country should be more of getting people out of Prague for at least three days. I was so impressed with what I saw with the visits to the small cities that I thought more tourists would want to see that after maybe two to three days in Prague. I find that most people that travel abroad to a non-English speaking country are more adventurous in their travels and don’t want to be limited.

The riverfront in Prague is beautiful on a sunny warm day

After our conversation with the CEO, it was off to lunch at his restaurant, The Kayak Bar. This was an picturesque restaurant on the river not far from where I was touring on my afternoon off from visiting Old Town. It was a bright sunny day with blue skies and around 80 degrees. It was the perfect afternoon to be on a boat.

The Kayak Beach Bar at Naplavka 128 00 by the river

https://www.facebook.com/KayakBeachBarPrague/about/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d11923408-Reviews-Kayak_Beach_Bar-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

It was a nice walk from the office to the river and we got to see more of the city that I had seen the other afternoon. I was hoping Mr. Herget would be joining us but he had an afternoon of meetings so our group was off for lunch. I was starved because I did not have much of a breakfast.

The Kayak Beach Bar

The Kayak Beach Bar

The Hamburger and French Fries were excellent at the Kayak Beach Bar

After lunch was over, the group of us were hoping to go paddleboarding. All the restaurant had was kayaks and no one wanted to kayak in the the river. None of us wanted to fall in. So we left the restaurant in search of paddleboats which we found on a small island park down the river. That was a lot of fun. I had not been in a paddleboat since I was in Boston about ten years ago when I was in one of the swan paddleboats.

All of us getting in our paddleboats for an afternoon tour of the river and the city. I am in the green polo and paddled like crazy that afternoon.

While we were waiting for everyone to come back, we relaxed in the garden on the small island where the paddleboats were located.

Even a better group shot with the river and the city behind us

After our lunch and the tour of the river area, it was time to explore the Old City again and then the neighborhoods of Vysehrad and Vinohrady. These were neighborhoods outside the tourist zones of the Old City and had lots of nice shopping and dining options. From there, we would be on our way to our cooking class where we would be making a traditional Czech dinner and eating in as a group.

We passed through the older section of this part of the city, passing the old Opera House and then crossing the Charles Bridge again. On this spectacular sunny day the views were amazing.

Passing through the town square

We crossed over the Charles Bridge and took in the sites during the day. It really is a breathtaking bridge with the most wonderful statuary. We passed by the old Opera House with its elegant details. The bridge is a national treasure in beauty and design. What I liked about this walk was all the interesting architecture that you pass where one building is more glorious than the next. These things were built to last and to show the importance of that city in that era. They just don’t built them like this today.

The old Prague Opera House

The Charles Bridge

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Bridge

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g274707-d275157-Reviews-Charles_Bridge-Prague_Bohemia.html

The Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge statue of King Charles

Our Group shot on the Charles Bridge

Views of the river were just amazing!

We stopped at Winnie Lahudky & Potraviny Bakery at Masarykovo nábř 38/2058 for a quick snack before we continued the tour. As with everyone else, we needed a coffee and pastry break. I think we were turning into Europeans by this point. I think it is civil to have an afternoon break. The pastries were excellent (see TripAdvisor review).

The selection of pastries are excellent

The bakery had an excellent selection of delicious desserts. We tried not to ruin our appetites for dinner.

Winnie Lahudky & Potraviny Bakery

http://www.praha-lahudky.cz/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d26107831-Reviews-Winnie_Lahudky_Potraviny-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

The river front park that lines the pathway

Old City Hall

Walking through Old Town again was a treat. I love the architecture of this area. We toured a lot of the areas that we had seen our first day of touring this section of the city when we visited NYU. We walked down Paris, the street that looked like the Right Bank, with all the luxury stores and passed the oldest Jewish Synagogue in the Czech Republic.

The Synagogue in Old Town

The town square

As we toured this part of the city, we learned the history and development of the area and the change from it being a residential area to a tourist destination. Janna was telling us how she grew up here and the rapid change from her childhood home to tourists dominating this part of the city. Just like in New York, the tourist based businesses crowd out what makes a neighborhood a neighborhood.

The Old Town district has become one big tourist destination with no local character anymore unless people want to deal with troughs of people walking through their neighborhood. Here we saw more modern sculpture.

The moveable sculpture of the “Franz Kafka Head”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_of_Franz_Kafka

Video displaying the head moving

It was off to the cooking class for the rest of the evening. We got off the cable car and walked around the Vinohrady district which is a non-touristy district that you could tell must have been a much more exclusive neighborhood at one time. The apartment buildings and stores looked like a Parisian neighborhood. We got there a little late so most the shops and small markets that Janna wanted to take us to were closed at that point. We got the cooking school in record time.

This was interesting as it brought back memories of cooking at the Culinary Institute of America and at Michigan State University in my Skills Classes. It was not too difficult and the menu was easy to prepare. My table partner, Brian and I worked together to prepare our dinner.

We made a Cream of Mushroom Soup, a Roast Pork with Garlic and Chive Dumplings and then made dessert. It was a lot of fun but watching my classmates hesitate at times or making me always go first got to me. I am never afraid of making a fool of myself is because this is how I always learned in cooking school. Trial and error. We all make mistakes. Still, we had a great time working together to get the job done.

My cooking partner, Brian and I making soup for the first course

Plating the finished Mushroom Soup with Heavy Cream

Clean up to prepare to make the entrée

Me preparing homemade dumplings

Getting a demo of what the chef wanted us to do

Our entrée was Roast Garlic Pork with Chive Dumplings

Our Group shot with our Chef

We all sat down for dinner together after each course was done. We had such a good time not just learning how to cook these dishes but learning some things about Czech cuisine. Their version of dumplings are so much different from other countries. I saw this when we had lunch in Karlovy Vary. I did not know that is what a dumpling was supposed to look like. We got a lot out of this cooking class that evening. After we cleaned up it was back to campus to get some sleep. We had another long day ahead of us.

The adventure was going to continue. We were going to Kutna Hora on our last day and then our Farewell dinner. It was a quick week.

Day Two Hundred and Seventy-Seven My Walk in Prague: Day Five: Visiting the City of Kutna Hora for the afternoon and our Farewell Dinner June 1st, 2023

After spending most of our time exploring the city of Prague and all her secrets, it was time to leave the city again and explore more of the outside cities that the country was trying to promote for tourism. These spa towns were rich in small museums, beautiful churches, excellent shopping districts and wonderful restaurants (where a lot of the staff spoke perfect English). The views were breathtaking and the historical sites amazing.

We were up again today at 8:00am (groan) and had to be at the train station early to catch our train to Kunta Hora, another small city outside of Prague. I did not have time to research the city so I was not sure what to expect. It was another interesting city with a lot to do.

Passing unusual artwork on the way to the train station

We had to make the train to Kutna Hora at a certain time early in the morning so that we could get there to start our tours of the churches and historical sites. There was no time for breakfast until we got to the station. When we arrived, we were given our instructions, ticket information and then were given about forty-five minutes to get something to eat and then board the train. I started to look around.

Our neighborhood had such interesting buildings

Before we broke for breakfast, I came across a Lego display of the train station and I thought this was very clever. Talk about details. Who ever put this together did a wonderful job because it really did look like the station and the traffic around it.

Lego set at the Train Station

Lego Display at the Train Station

The details on the display were very much real to the way the station appeared. It was something I am not too sure many people noticed as they dashed to their trains and destinations.

I did not want to get too far from where our meeting place was so I looked on the same floor. Most of the places just sold coffee and Danishes but I wanted more. I was starved and breakfast is an important meal to me. That’s when I found Paul, a French bakery similar to the ones I ate at in Paris. The concept was the same and they did have formula meals.

Paul at the Train Station

Breakfast at Paul at Plzenska 344/1 at the Train Station

https://www.paul-bakeries.com/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g274707-d12926321-r893026737-Paul-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

The inside of Paul at the Train Station

The amazing breakfast that morning

The breakfast was excellent. I could not believe the quality of the food that was at a train station. I am used to the watered down version of bakery items that we see in the United States when I have eaten at Penn Station or Port Authority with the airy croissant or the tasteless muffins and dealing with it because those were the only options. The baked goods at Paul rivaled anything at the Paris bakeries.

The taste of the breakfast really surprised me as it tasted like the Boulangeries’ that we ate at the week before in Paris and I thought I would not see that again. The Quiche Lorraine was full of pieces of fresh ham along with the creamy eggs and the crust was so flaky and the apricot tart was one of the best pastries on the trip (see review on TripAdvisor). I later wrote on of the most glowing reviews on TripAdvisor and got the nicest response from the manager who was thrilled by the review. I guess you can make a small difference in the world.

The train was particularly packed that morning and we were all over the place regardless of the fact that we had reserved tickets. It would be the same way when we returned. The Czech’s keep it very organized in that when you buy a ticket on the train, you get to book your seat like you would on a plane. It made it so much easier for us.

After being packed in for over an hour, we got to Kutna Hora and took the bus to our first destination in a series of churches we would be visiting that day. Our first stop was the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and St. John the Baptist in Sedlec. The original church had been built between 1290 and 1320 and then burned to the ground in 1421. It lay in ruins until the early 18th century when it was reconstructed in the High Baroque style by architect Jan Blazej Santini-Aichel (Sedlec pamphlet).

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Kunta Hora

The Roman Catholic Cemetery Church of All Saints with Ossuary is together with the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and St. John the Baptist, part of the former Cistercian abbey established in 1142 (Sedlec pamphlet).

From the early 1300’s to the late 1400’s almost 40,000 were buried in the cemetery due to famines and disease. When the cemetery was being reduced in the early 1500’s, the bones were deposited to the bottom of the chapel. In the beginning of the 1700’s when Santini-Aichel was making renovations on the church, he created bone decorations and other decorations for the church (Sedlec pamphlet).

The statuary outside the church

When the church was purchased by the Schwarzenberg’s in 1870, they renovated the bone decorations and hired carver Frantisek Rint to complement the décor. He cleaned the decorations and added new ones to the church including the chandelier and the Schwartzberg’s Coat of Arms (Sedlec pamphlet). Since we could not take pictures inside, I took this picture of the bone decorations from their website (Church website).

The bone decorations of the Roman Catholic Cemetery Church of All Saints with Ossuary

The inside of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption was very impressive with its statuary and paintings. We were able to take our time and really explore the church with our tour guide. It did not look like many services were still held in the church and it was more for touring.

The inside of the Church complex where the congregation seems to meet only in the front part of the church.

The tours of the main chapel

While the front part of the church looks like it is still used for services, the back part of the museum looks like it is being used as a museum for pieces of the inside of the church on display. A museum within a church. Exquisite pieces are on display that stand on their own.

One of the church’s altars

The other altar

The wooden carved confession booth

Church statuary

The magnificence ceiling

When we climbed the stairs to the second floor of the church and walked through the upper part of the floor, the church was sponsoring an art exhibition of a contemporary artist. I thought the was an interesting use of the ceiling area of the church. Still being used for services, the church is being repurposed for other events as well.

After visiting both churches and the bone decorations creating quite a discussion amongst our group, we went to visit the third church on our list , the other UNESCO site, St. Barbara’s Cathedral. I have never seen a more beautiful church and I have been to ones all over the world.

St. Barbara’s Cathedral as we approached the church

St. Barbara’s Cathedral from the front

Walking on the side of St. Barbara’s Cathedral

A unique work of peak and late Gothic architecture. It’s construction was started in 1388 by Petr Parler and his workgroup. Construction was interrupted several times and the monumental cathedral was finally completed after more than 500 years of building (Kunta Hora Tourist Information Center).

St. Barbara’s School across the street from the church

The Shrine of St. Barbara’s Cathedral

The church altar

The holy water at the church

The inside of St. Barbara’s pews

In 1905, in some chapels late gothic murals with mining themes are preserved, the most prized can be found in Smisek Chapel (Kutna Hora Tourist Information Center).

The stained glass windows

The beautiful stained glass windows

Paintings on the walls

The detailed paintings of St. Barbara’s Cathedral

Just walking around the church for the afternoon was a treat. I have never seen such beautiful detail on a church before with all the colorful stained glass windows and elegant paintings on the walls. The churches in this town had so many interesting aspects of carvings and painting to them. This is what the silver mining money of this town bought.

The outside of the church was just as beautiful with all the plantings and gardens. The pathways around the church were so nicely landscaped and there was even a small vineyard on the pathway out of the church.

The views from the church is breathtaking

The vineyard by the side of St. Barbara’s

The saints line the walkway by the vineyard

The views from the church’s walkway

The views looking into downtown Kutna Hora were just amazing. The church was the showpiece of the town and it looked like a postcard.

Me at St. Barbara’s second floor of the church. I wanted to remember this beautiful church.

After we left St. Barbara’s, we had the afternoon to ourselves for lunch and touring. This was my escape time and I wanted to explore the town on my own. There were a couple of suggestions of places to eat as we were walking into town but I wanted to explore Downtown Kunta Hora first and see what it had to offer. It is such a great downtown with lovely shops and some great restaurants.

The Kutna Hora Town Square

While some of my classmates toured the city together, I walked to the middle of the downtown where we were meeting to catch the bus home and walked all the side streets of the town. It was such a cute little town. It reminded me of the towns in the Hudson River Valley with their unique architecture and wonderful restaurants. I just wanted to find something different.

The quaint downtown of Kutna Hora

These planters were blooming all over the square

As I explored the side streets and looked at the menus, I did not want to eat pizzas and hamburgers. I wanted a nice meal but something light because we were having our going away dinner this evening in Prague and I did not need a big meal inside me.

I had passed this open doorway on the side street and peeked inside to find an restaurant that had both an inside dining room and an outdoor café. The weather was so beautiful the entire time we were in the Czech Republic, warm and sunny and in the high 70’s it would be fun to eat outside. Plus they had an interesting lunch menu that was reasonable. This is when I found Restaurant Ctyri Sestry at Havlickova Namesti 512.

Restaurace Ctyri Sestry at Havlickova Namesti 512

https://www.ctyrisestry.cz/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274701-d13273676-Reviews-Ctyri_sestry_Zahradni_Restaurace-Kutna_Hora_Central_Bohemian_Region_Bohemia.html?m=19905

The outdoor seating in the walled garden

What a beautiful restaurant with excellent food and service with views of the gardens and the valley as well. I even had a little cat join me for lunch (I think he was a feral cat as he walked away while I was eating my main course). I was seated in the corner table in the garden area and talk about views. I had the most wonderful of the walled garden that surrounded me and of the valley below with its slopes and small villages.

The outdoor dining

The walled gardens

The walled garden

The beauty of the walled garden where I was sitting

4-

The menu of daily specials in which everything looked good.

The menu specials were very creative and were not the ordinary schnitzels and potato dishes I had seen in other restaurants. It was almost a fusion of Italian and French with a little Czech thrown in. I wanted something on the lighter side but still filling because it was still going to be several hours before we had dinner. So I chose the Cream of Broccoli Soup and the Pork Patties with fresh noodles. Everything was not only excellent but so well presented.

My first course was the Cream of Broccoli Soup

The Cream of Broccoli Soup

The Pork Patties with Fresh Noodles in a Soy Sauce

I had this cat sitting right by me in the garden and I was not sure if it was the owner’s cat or just a feral cat hanging around. I was friendly to it but did not encourage it with food. You can never be sure with a cat. The cat looked more like a kitten was looking at me as I was looking at him.

My lunch companion who never left the dining area

When I was done with my lunch, my little dining companion climbed the wall and walked away through the roof and the gardens. He then just disappeared.

After the wonderful lunch was over, I went back down to the downtown area and visited the pastry shop that was around the corner from the restaurant. I had passed it earlier when I was looking for a restaurant to eat at and I wanted to stop back. The pastries in their cases looked delicious. This is where I found the delicious pastries of Cukrarna U Kraba bakery.

The pastry shop Cukrarna U Kraba at Tylova 505

http://www.cukrarnaukraba.cz/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274701-d15511157-Reviews-Cukrarna_U_Kraba-Kutna_Hora_Central_Bohemian_Region_Bohemia.html?m=19905

Peeking in the window is what attracted me to the bakery

The amazing pastry case

Picking out the pastries I wanted to try

I was not sure what I wanted to try as everything looked so good but I decided on the one on the top right that was a Vanilla Cream filled Glazed Doughnut and the Red Velvet doughnut with a heavy glaze on the bottom right.

More selection to choose from

Indulging in the delicious pastries of the bakery. A Chocolate covered Red Velvet Cake and a Vanilla Cream filled French Cruller. Yum!

Other wonderful items line the shelves

After a wonderful meal and a phenomenal dessert, it was time to visit the merchants that I saw as I was walking around looking for places to eat. there are some wonderful shops in the town with a lot of handmade merchandise.

Visiting the shops

The beautiful handmade porcelains (was cash only)

An excellent gift shop (with hand made cards)

There was even a Justy’s Café Restaurant which I thought was a good sign

It was back to the town square after the relaxing afternoon of lunch and shopping in the town. The town square was just so beautiful to sit in and relax. It was so nice to just sit back and relax and enjoy the beautiful day.

The elegant statue in Town Square

Relaxing under the trees before the trip home

Admiring the town architecture

Admiring the town architecture

Even the stone walls are attractive here

We took the bus back to the train and the train back to Prague and then we walked back to campus when we returned to Prague. The professor gave us two hours to just relax before we left for our farewell dinner which we would be having at a wonderful restaurant in the Old Town section of the city, Manes Restaurant.

Manes Café

https://manesrestaurant.cz/en

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d10254426-Reviews-Cafe_Manes-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

We had a Prix Fixe menu and I had settled on the Goat Cheese appetizer and for dinner I had the Asparagus Risotto. For dessert, we had a refreshing Lemon Sorbet. Everything was so elegantly served and the service at the restaurant was flawless. Everyone was so nice to us and we had the back room all to ourselves. Jana joined us on our last night in the city so it made it special for our class as she became part of our group. The menus were very reasonable.

The Appetizer Menu

Tomato and Mozzarella Salad

The Entrée Menu

Asparagus Risotto

The Dessert Menu

Lemon Sorbet with Fresh Fruit

Our Farewell group shot on our last day of class in Prague. I left the next morning for Palermo in Italy for my brother’s wedding.

Our group shot at our farewell dinner our last night in our Prague class

After the wonderful dinner as over, we took one last trip over the Charles Bridge to see the views of the skyline of Prague and one more tour of the Old Town section of the city. Talk about an excellent view of the city at night.

The Charles Bridge at night with the City of Prague behind it.

Charles Bridge at night

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Bridge

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g274707-d275157-Reviews-Charles_Bridge-Prague_Bohemia.html

The statue of King Charles at night

Our Charles Bridge Group shot before it got dark

After our walk on the bridge, we got the other side and everyone went their own ways. I had to head back to the campus to pack and get ready for a long airplane ride to Palermo (with three stopovers and a ten hour layover. Groan!) We all said our goodbyes and went one our ways. What a wonderful night and what a great class. I learned so much from the experience and from the City of Prague. There is so much potential here and I can see a big influx of American tourism in the future.

I could not put a price tag on what I experienced between my Paris and Prague classes. It was a valuable experience that I will remember for the rest of the rest of my life. Now I just have to finish the homework for the class in Italy (I got an “A” in both classes).

Off to Palermo!

Day Two Hundred and Seventy-Four My walk in Prague: Day Three: Exploring the City of Karlovy Vary and touring spas and the Grandhotel Pupp May 30th, 2023

On our third day in Prague, we got out of the city to visit the spa town of Karlovy Vary. Our professor wanted to show us tourism sites outside of Prague as a way of furthering our knowledge of the country as well as show us other places that tourists can visit when they are in the Czech Republic.

The entrance to the downtown from the train station is very impressive but old until you get further into the downtown.

Karlovy Tourism Bureau and information:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karlovy_Vary

https://www.karlovyvary.cz/en

We took a train ride out of the city and that was interesting as the train was packed with people both going into the town and leaving the town that day. Getting a seat was an adventure. When we arrived at Karlovy Vary I was not too sure what to expect. What I experienced was a beautiful spa resort town with gorgeous Victorian architecture, excellent restaurants and shops, a extensive history of the spa industry of the area due to the mineral water springs and a whimsical turn of the century luxury hotel right in the center of it all.

Arriving in Downtown Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic

When we first arrived, it was early in the morning. The City was just beginning to wake up and we had the downtown to ourselves. RIght by the train station, the city seemed a bit quiet but when we walked in the entrance to the downtown, I could not tell you how impressed I was with the beauty of Karlovy Vary. The Becherovka bottle statue would be our meeting place at the end of the tour at the end of the day.

The Becherovka Bottle would be our meeting place at the end of the day

The city is row after row of delightful Victorian buildings with the Beaux Arts style looking almost like a wedding cake with all the embellishments.

Touring the picturesque downtown in Karlovy Vary

When we arrived in town, we did not have time to eat breakfast before we left Prague so we stopped at a few places to see what we could find. We came across Coffee Republic, a small funky coffee shop similar to those we see in Greenwich Village and had breakfast.

Republica Coffee at T.G. Masaryka 894/28

https://www.facebook.com/republicakv/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274697-d6166407-Reviews-Republica_Coffee-Karlovy_Vary_Karlovy_Vary_Region_Bohemia.html?m=19905

What a great meal we all had! It was fun to stop and just relax on this glorious morning.

Republica Coffee was our savior that morning

It was just nice to stop and relax. We had a nice time talking to the owners who had very different sodas and desserts on their menu.

The inside of Republica Coffee

The pastry selection in the cases

Their drink selection had a the most unusual and delicious local brands to purchase

I needed my sugar fix for the long day of walking. I had a traditional Honey Cinnamon cake and pear juice drink. Since it was such a nice morning, we were able to sit outside in the outdoor cafe. The cake had layers and layers of goodness.

Now this is a breakfast! Honey Cinnamon Cake and a Classic Pear drink by Cappy

The seating was just like New York with the outdoor seating and over head umbrellas. Since it was so early in the morning when we arrived, we were the only ones in the coffee shop and pretty much kept the staff busy for that part of the morning. People loved it when our group arrived with twelve hungry people all the time.

Sitting outside was fun on a warm sunny day

My classmates that morning chilling out before our full day of touring.

After breakfast was over, our group walked the historical downtown on our way to our tour of the Mineral Baths complex. It was one of the most beautiful downtowns I have ever seen and it put Saratoga to shame.

Starting our downtown tour through the beautiful streets of Karlovy Vary

On our way to the tour of the Mineral Baths of the City of Karlovy Vary, which is what gave the town is point of the map for being a spa town, we winded through the Victorian laden streets admiring all the elegant buildings, pocket parks, fountains and statuary of the city. I fell in love with the area in just the first half hour.

The whole town was built after the Civil War and the start of the Industrial Revolution that followed that era. When King Charles IV discovered that the mineral waters cured the wounds on his leg established a spa here and that was the beginning of the town’s development. The Victorian architecture that is now well protected under historical guidelines was built when German, French, Czech and American tourists came here for treatment after the war.

The streets were lined with interesting independent shops, restaurants and bakeries including surprisingly enough a very popular McDonalds that was always busy. I could not believe how popular McDonald’s was in both France and the Czech Republic! Just shows the power of American cultural influence all over the world. Plus people really like the food.

When we reached the center of the town and discovered the most beautiful garden that had the most unusual feature, a garden that in the landscaping had the day of the week. They must have to change this every day but it was fun to look at.

The day of the week is done in flowers

We got such a kick out it that we had to take a picture

Walking through their downtown is just breathtaking with all the beautiful Victorian gardens,statuary, fountains and gorgeous architecture. One block was better than the other and I do not know if the people living here every get tired of this beautiful town.

All the gardens are so well-maintained

All the buildings look like a wedding cake

I just want to jump in their fountains and splash around

Touring the downtown by the obelisk

With every twist and turn of this

I don’t think there was a bad looking corner of this town.

Our first stop on the tour was going to visiting the Mineral baths and where the water flow was controlled.

The entrance to the building

Touring the flow of the mineral baths

Our class observing the flow of the mineral waters to the baths

Our group seeing how the mineral bath systems work in the building

The model of the mineral water system for the city

Mineral Water buildup

Our class group shot with Dr. K, our professor for the class

Walking through the pipes

The mineral water running through the system

What the mineral water does to products during build up

Our group shot when we were leaving the mineral bath tour of the water system. It was an interesting behind the scenes tour of how the whole system worked.

After the tour, we walked outside where the sunny, blue day was in full blaze. The flowering trees made quite the backdrop to the local Catholic Church. It was such a great day.

The beautiful landscaping accented all the beautiful buildings.

After the tour of the behind-the-scenes workings of the mineral baths, we then took a tour of the Hotel Prezident with its noted doctor, MD Sarova, who explained to us how the spa/wellness visits benefit clients from all over the world. This form of luxury spa treatment has been popular in Karlovy for over a hundred years and in a post-COVID world has found a spot of healing people.

Touring the various spa treatment rooms

The spa terrace used after treatments

This is when I just wanted to stop the tour and check in. I thought this was the perfect way to get better from any ailment. This seemed to me to be the perfect place to detox from all the problems that ailed people. With a view like this I would get better.

The relaxing view from the spa terrace

One toured the whole facility, the doctor sat down with us and explained how treatments worked, that there was a three-week treatment period to work with the body and some of the spa treatments that people used during and while having COVID. It was a fascinating lecture on the use of mineral water treatments, diet and exercise that makes people better.

Then we walked around the town and saw the various building that housed the baths, and it was like going back in time. Some looked like the famous Roman Baths and others looked like post-Civil War Victorian of the Gilded Age. It showed me the importance placed on getting better in an elegant and relaxed environment.

The Roman Baths built during the Victorian Age

The Roman baths in the Victorian Age

The Victorian Spa

The inside of the Victorian spa

In any era, I know that I would get better from a treatment like this. I think it is not just the mineral water and diet but the attitude that needs to change as well. Our approach to handle a situation is also part of the therapy that is given. The doctor had a lot of insights that day.

After our tour of the mineral baths and the spa it was off to the luxury hotel, The Grandhotel Pupp, considered one of the premier hotels in the country. What I liked about this town is that everything is within walking distance of everything else, so it was a quick walk to the hotel through the town.

The waterway in the downtown on our way to the hotel

Us touring the downtown on our way to the hotel

On the way over to the hotel we stopped for a sweet waffle or ‘wafer’ that the Czech Republic is known for in Karlovy Vary.

On the way over to the hotel, we stopped, and the Professor treated us to a waffle or known as a ‘wafer’ cookie that the city was known for. These thin little cookies were really good and very sweet. This was a great treat before lunch.

Guest Relations from the Grandhotel Pupp met us at the front door of the hotel and I was just floored by the luxury of the surroundings. Like the rest of the town, it was Victorian picture-perfect. It was like someone had dropped The Plaza Hotel into a small town. What a gorgeous hotel.

Our group arriving at the Grandhotel Pupp

https://www.pupp.cz/en

My review on TripAdvisor:

http://www.tripadvisor.com//Hotel_Review-g274697-d275547-Reviews-Grandhotel_Pupp-Karlovy_Vary_Karlovy_Vary_Region_Bohemia.html?m=19905

I was struck by just how beautifully decorated each room was and the details on all the features. This was Victorian splendor at its best. When we walked into the lobby, the detail work and molding was something I had not seen in an American hotel.

The Grandeur of the lobby where we met Guest Relations

Our group shot at the Grandhotel Pupp

After the introductions, we started on the tour which continued through the lobby and into the bar area off the lobby in which the staff was setting up for service. They glanced at us as they wiped down glassware that was already sparkling. The whole bar area was set up perfectly. After years in the fast casual dining segment of the business, I was not used to such perfection.

The bar area being set up for service

The bar ceiling

We then walked further inside the room to the Formal Dining Room and got to see the view from the Dining Room into downtown. The room was being set up for dinner that evening.

The Formal Dining Room

The Formal Dining Room set for lunch

The ceiling in the Formal Dining Room

We then moved on to touring a few of the bedrooms. Like in France, we started with the Presidential Suite. It was elegant but not overdone which was nice. It would not intimidate anyone.

The Presidential Bedroom sleeping area

The Living Room

The Bathroom really wowed everyone

We toured two smaller rooms but after seeing all this nothing compared to it. Then we moved to the spa area of the hotel which here was more for Wellness rather than getting over an ailment. We finished the tour on the back terrace where people were outside talking and chatting over drinks.

The Terrace Dining at the Grandhotel Pupp. I just wished we could have stayed over!

After we took a group shot with the Director of Guest Relations, we were off to lunch at Restaurant Diana, which stood above the city on the monorail system called the ‘Funicular’. We got the most amazing view of the city from this point. We took the monorail up the top of the mountain and stopped at a building that looked like one of the old Lodge Hotels in an American National Park.

The amazing views at the top of the mountain should not be missed

Our first stop when we reached the top was Restaurant Diana for lunch. I was not knowing what to expect and what we experienced was an excellent hearty lunch with wonderful service in an beautiful environment.

Restaurant Diana at the top of Diana Karlovy Vary

https://dianakv.cz/en

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274697-d7044109-Reviews-Restaurant_Diana-Karlovy_Vary_Karlovy_Vary_Region_Bohemia.html?m=19905

We sat down in a back table in a sun-drenched dining room and ordered. The waitress could not have been nicer to a large group of people and since it was quiet in the dining room that afternoon, we got a lot of attention. The food and the service were wonderful that afternoon.

The inside of Restaurant Diana

I had the Pan-Fired Pork Cutlets with a side of Bacon Dumplings. The dumplings were rather large and looked and tasted more like a small slice of bread rather than a traditional dumpling either Chinese or Pennsylvanian Dutch. We found out later in the week how they were made but I really enjoyed them, and it was a rather filling meal for a traditional lunch.

The Pan-Fried Pork Cutlet and Bacon Dumplings were delicious that afternoon.

We talked about the hotel tour and all the wonderful things to see in Karlovy Vary over lunch and then afternoon lunch of our tour up the Observation Tower. I could not wait to see the views. All I know was that I was going to take a very long nap when we got back to Prague. This was a heavy lunch.

The views from the tower were breathtaking and you really got to see the City from here. The forests that surrounded the city were just amazing.

Restaurant Diana from the view from the top of the tower

The City with the views of the surrounding forest

More of the surrounding city

The surrounding forest

The city in the distance

After the tour in the Observation Deck, we decided to walk down the hill/ Not the best move when you are wearing topsiders and the path is mostly not paved. It was a treacherous walk down in some spots, but we got back down in one piece. It was a good way of working off lunch.

When we got to the bottom, the Professor let us have the rest of the afternoon to ourselves so we could tour the town. I started to revisit all the streets that we walked down and wanted to see some of the shops and bakeries that looked interesting. I also took my time to admire the architecture in the town squares.

The wedding cake architecture of the buildings

The Repre Bakery at T.G. Masaryka 837/29 is just amazing for Czech pastries!

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274697-d14083244-Reviews-Repre-Karlovy_Vary_Karlovy_Vary_Region_Bohemia.html#MAPVIEW

While walking around on my way back to the train station to meet everyone else I came across Repre, a wonderful bakery featuring the most delicious Czech pastries. What a selection of glazed and cream filled goodies! I could not make a choice on which one I liked so I got two of them. I got a

The excellent selection of pastries that I could not choose from

I was not sure of the names of these delicious desserts but the Chocolate one was filled with Mocha and Whipped Cream topped with a rich milk chocolate sauce and the other one is a glazed doughnut topped with extra thick icing and filled with vanilla and whipped cream.

I chose these two pastries and was in high heaven with each bite. The quality and flavor of these pastries was just excellent, and I could see the women who worked the counter were watching me with a big smile on my face. This is what I love about being an adult and can pay for my own things. You have choices.

After dessert was over, I kept walking back to the liquor bottle that was our meeting point, taking pictures of buildings, parks and fountains. It was just one nice thing to look at after another.

One of the unusual fountains that I came across on my way back to the train station,

Walking around the downtown

We met back at the meeting spot and took one last picture by 5:00pm so that we could take the train back to Prague. From not knowing what to expect to having an absolute ball in Karlovy Vary, I highly recommend this side trip out of the city for a restful and relaxing afternoon of touring and dining.

Another great day of touring! What beautiful weather we had too!

Day Two Hundred and Seventy-Three My walk in Prague: Day One: Our first day of touring the Castle District and Old Town Prague May 29th, 2023

I woke up and the jet leg was not as bad this morning. I guess that day to myself was really helpful. I got all the laundry done, my work emails completed and got a good night’s rest and that was a big help. I woke up refreshed and ready to start touring the great City of Prague. Our Placemaking Tourist class in Prague was much different in perspective than Paris with more emphasis on experiences and less on the food culture (although that did not stop me from taking lots of pictures on food).

I started off with a light breakfast at this wonderful little cafe in the courtyard of the NYU Residence Hall called Cafe Osada, which would become my go to place for breakfast almost every morning we were in Prague. The pastries and the breakfasts were amazing!

Cafe Osada inside the courtyard of NYU Prague

https://www.osada.cz/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d19454605-Reviews-Osada-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

Their danishes were always handmade and baked on premise and when you order them first thing in the morning, they were still warm. Everything I had from them during the week was excellent. I wish I could have tried them for lunch or dinner but we were always on the road with touring but still they were a treat at breakfast.

The delicious Cherry Pastry with Pear juice started off my first day of touring

The Cherry Pastry was to die for and it also came in Plum and Apricot

The Scrambled Egg breakfast I really enjoyed and it was visually stunning. Don’t underestimate salad for breakfast. It was delicious!

We started our day with our first (and only thank God) NYU class introducing us to the campus, to the City and to the culture of Praguel led by one of the NYU Prague professor’s and then a talk from the Head of NYU Prague campus. It was a nice way to start the class off.

After that part of the class, we were introduced to Jana Markova, our tour guide extraordinary, who would be our guide for the rest of the week. She had been born and raised in Prague and her family was in the tourism business so she would be our guide to corners of the city. She ran the business “Absolutely Prague”, her own touring company and she did excellent work throughout the whole week and became part of the gang with the students attending the class.

Ms. Jana Markova, the owner of “Absolutely Prague” and our tour guide for the week

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g274707-d26102438-r892664503-Absolutely_Prague-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

After a quick talk from her, we would get our passes for public transportation and off we went touring the city of Prague by cable car. First we would be exploring the Castle District of the city and then part of Old Town and then a site tour of the Hotel. The would be a very nice afternoon with a lot of walking.

Before we left on our tour of Prague for the first day, we had our welcome lunch right down the road from the NYU Prague campus at Holesovicka Kozlovna, a wonderful Czech restaurant that I had passed my first night in Prague. It was a really nice lunch and a good way to get to know some of my classmates. Not everyone from Paris went on to Prague. There were only four of us who continued on from that class.

Restaurant Holesovicka Kozlovna at Delnick 1501/28

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d15866960-Reviews-Holesovicka_Kozlovna-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d15866960-Reviews-Holesovicka_Kozlovna-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

The inside of the restaurant

The hip decor of the restaurant

Our lunch, a traditional Chicken Schnitzel with Potato Salad

The menu had already been set for us so it did not take that much time to serve us. The food and the service at the restaurant were excellent and everyone enjoyed lunch. It was a little heavy for a long day of touring, but we needed the energy. We were told that the rest of the menu is just as delicious.

We were joined by Jana from Absolute Prague for lunch, and she helped lead all the tours for the rest of the week. She became part of our class, and she was the best! She assisted in leading our group to all our activities and did a wonderful job.

Our group shot at lunch.

Getting to know everyone over lunch

We started by taking the cable car from our hipster neighborhood to the Palace District. I was not sure what to expect but I was blown away by the architecture and the history of the area. The buildings were so amazing, and I liked how an elite community was built around the palace. We were lucky that we had gotten here early in that the streets and walkways are so narrow that it must be tough to maneuver them when at the height of the tourist season.

The cable car system around Prague is amazing. It got us all around the city the entire time in Prague.

The entrance to the Palace District in Prague

The entrance to the Palace District of Prague

Us starting our adventure in the Old Section of Prague.

We walked section by section through the complex passing former homes of elite families of Prague, some of whom still live in these homes. I can’t see people living in such a highly traveled section of the city but in houses that big you can stay away from the foot traffic.

The view of the City from the palace grounds

One of the old homes is now an art gallery

What I loved about this section of the city was the detail work on all the homes, light fixtures on the streets and in the small parks and fountains. You can see the craftsmanship in the stone and metal work that went into building this complex of homes and palaces.

The Castle Square leading to the main building

The light fixture in Palace Square

Statue in one of the squares leading to the Castle.

The Prague Castle

The entrance to the Prague Castle

When we finally arrived at the Prague Castle, the security was all over the place. People were running around taking pictures of the law enforcement protecting the place. We just bypassed them as we continued our tour of the complex, but I have to admit one thing, people seemed very respectful and didn’t pull the stunts that pull at Buckingham Palace by trying to harass the guards. I would not pull that in a foreign country.

Prague Castle was most likely founded in around 880 by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty (Přemyslovci). According to the Guinness Book of World Records, Prague Castle is the largest coherent castle complex in the world, with an area of almost 70,000 m². A UNESCO World Heritage site, it consists of a large-scale composition of palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, from the remains of Romanesque-style buildings from the 10th century through Gothic modifications of the 14th century. The famous Slovenian architect Josip Plečnik was responsible for extensive renovations in the time of the First Republic (1918-1938). Since the Velvet Revolution, Prague Castle has undergone significant and ongoing repairs and reconstructions (Prague Castle for Visitors-www.hrade.cz).

We then walked through St. Vitus Cathedral where many royal coronations and funerals took place when the palace was still in use by royalty. The stained-glass windows were gorgeous.

The Roman Catholic Church, St. Vitus Cathedral, in the Palace complex

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Vitus_Cathedral

https://www.praguecastletickets.com/st-vitus-cathedral/

The inside of St. Vitus Cathedral

The beautiful stained-glass windows at St. Vitus Cathedral

As we exited the Cathedral, we continued through the complex. The tour guide explained that the gargoyles that adorned the top of the church is something it was known for, and we used to redirect water from the top of the church.

The church as we exited it

The gargoyle on the church is something its famous for

Prague leader Tomas G. Masaryz

Walking around the Palace Square

A fountain in the one of the Palace Squares

Prague Castle Square

As we exited the complex after many stops, our group took a turn and we went on our site visit of the Agustine Hotel, a Marriott property, that is a historic luxury hotel in Prague. The unique architecture and its historic background is a much different Marriott than its more traditional partners.

The front of the Hotel Augustine, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Marriott property at Letenska 12/33 Lesser Town

https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/prglc-augustine-a-luxury-collection-hotel-prague/overview/

My review on TripAdvisor:

http://www.tripadvisor.com//Hotel_Review-g274707-d1159286-Reviews-Augustine_a_Luxury_Collection_Hotel_Prague-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

The Bar Area

Our initial meeting at the bar

Our meeting with the head of Guest Relations at the Augustine, A Luxury Collection Hotel

We started out meeting in the bar area off the main lobby of the hotel with the head of Guest Relations talking about business at the hotel and its history. We then proceeded to tour all part of the hotel’s guests’ spaces.

The Front Desk lounge

I love the sculpture throughout the hotel.

The hotel’s Meeting/Banquet area

The hotel’s restaurant dining room

The Terrace restaurant area that was popular that evening

Right off the hotel’s gardens is the Monastery where the monks live who help create

The Sundial Gardens inside the hotel and the Monastery off to the left.

The outside gardens with the monestery in the back

The tour included a visit to the Presidential Suite. This is the living room.

The bedroom of the Presidential Suite

We concluded the tour with a beer tasting in the bar dedicated to American singer, Debbie Harry. The monks of the monastery had been brewers of beer.

The hotel was interesting in its design being part of monastery complex and how it was incorporated into a hospitality complex. I thought the designer of the hotel did an interesting job with it.

Our class group shot outside the hotel with Guest Relations and our tour guide, Jana.

After the tour of the hotel was over, we continued to make our way through the complex and ended up at the Wallenstein Gardens right off the palace grounds. These beautiful gardens were an oasis from all the traffic walking around the complex. These breathtaking gardens were built in 1630 and have continued to inspire people who visit them.

The Wallenstein Gardens

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wallenstein_Palace

The Wallenstein Gardens

The Wallenstein Gardens

The Wallenstein Gardens

Before we left the Palace complex, we visited the Lennon Wall, named after John Lennon after his assassination in New York City in the 1980’s. This has always been a wall of ever-changing art but was dedicated to the singer as it continues to change today. The artwork and messages change on a daily basis.

The Lennon Wall

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lennon_Wall

The Lennon Wall

The end of the Palace complex on our way out. There was even a McDonald’s just outside the entrance.

After this extensive tour of the Palace and it complexes and grounds, we were on our own again for the rest of the evening and we all went off to do other things in the city. I went to campus and walked around our ‘happening’ neighborhood to find a place to eat.

I ate at Pizza Bistro Gallo Nero right around the corner from campus, a small pizzeria I had passed on my first night in Prague. All the pizzas coming outside to guests looked really good. It was such a beautiful night and the perfect night to eat outside. The pizza was fantastic, and I really enjoyed my dinner.

Pizza Bistro Gallo Negro at UldelnickA 642/17

https://pizzagallonero.cz/

My review on TripAdvisor:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g274707-d26095442-Reviews-Pizza_Bistro_Gallo_Nero-Prague_Bohemia.html?m=19905

The outside seating of the Pizza Bistro Gallo Nero where I had my dinner that night.

I ordered a wood-oven fired pizza with Cherry Tomatoes and Parma Ham and it was excellent. The flavors combined so nicely, and the ingredients were so fresh. They loaded the toppings on the top of the pizza and the complexity of the flavors were in every bite.

The Parma Ham and Cherry Tomato pizza was delicious.

After dinner I got to talk to the pizza chef and asked if he was Italy. He told me in his broken Czech that he was born and raised in Prague, and he seemed to be happy that I thought he was Italian. I told him the pizza was excellent. I think I made his night.

I walked around our “Williamsburg” neighborhood that evening, exploring all the bars, restaurants and art galleries. It was too bad that we had things planned the next few nights as there were concerts planned and an art gallery exhibition the next evening. For the next time.

It really was an great adventure today!