
The Hungarian Pastry Shop at 1030 Amsterdam Avenue in Morningside Heights.

The pastry case is filled with the most amazing baked goods.
I got an email during Spring Break that Cornell Basketball was going to be playing Yale for the Ivy League Championships. We had an Alumni get together at the Lion Head Tavern at 995 Amsterdam Avenue before the game and we would be heading up for the game. You know that nothing works out the way you think it will.

Lion’s Head Tavern at 995 Amsterdam Avenue
Review on TripAdvisor:
By the time I got to the Alumni get together at the Lion Head Tavern which is several blocks from the gym it was almost over. It had been a long morning for me and try getting a bus to cooperate getting into Manhattan on a Saturday and then catching the subway uptown was interesting. I have to say that the tiny bar was PACKED with Alumni and current students having a good time before the game. The whole place both inside and outside the bar was spilling with Red and White. Everyone really thought we would win the Ivy League Championship. I thought so too with the current record we had for the season.
When I got inside, all that was left was a salad that had seen better days and there was no dressing to it and some portobella mushroom burgers (Yuck!). I did not want to eat any mushy mushrooms. By that point at 1:30pm, everyone was heading up to the Levien Gymnasium where the game was taking place and I was starved, so I walked to Koronet Pizza on Broadway to have one their giant slices. I forgot how giant the slices are there.

Koronet Pizza at 2848 Broadway
https://www.koronetpizzany.com
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
I forgot how good the pizza was and how big these slices actually are. The cheese slice if cut into half could easily serve two hungry people. I downed the slice with a Coke before the game and it filled me up for the rest of the afternoon. It was so beautiful outside that the doors and windows were all open and the place was spilling with Cornell, Columbia and Princeton Alumni (Princeton had just lost to Brown in the Semi-Finals and they were all bummed).

The pizza slice is huge and takes up two plates.
After this large lunch, I walked up to the gym to get tickets. At first they were trying to sell me the seatback tickets for $60.00 but I could not afford that nor did I want to pay that for a Ivy League game. Since I was traveling alone, I did get a ticket in the bleachers for $30.00 which I still thought was too high but I came all the way to see the game so I paid for my ticket and then had to run around the perimeter of the gym to get to my seats. The commentators were blocking the easy route to the bleachers.
The place was mostly a sea of red and white with the Yale Alumni tucked into two sets of the gym. Our band and cheerleaders were on top of the bleachers yelling and screaming. At that point were behind by ten points when I arrived in the first half of the game.

The Cornell Team in the huddle during the first half of the beginning of the game.

The start of the game when I got there.
The first half was not so great. We had lots of mistakes. We kept up with Yale, a team that we had beaten the last time and lost by two points the time before. I have to say that our side of the court was rather loud. I have found at Ivy League games no matter football or basketball, Cornell Alumni and students are far more the dominate members of the stands even at away games. I have been to Penn, Columbia and Yale games were we take up all the seats and do most of the cheering.
It was not much of a game for either side in the first half as we left at half time 37-25 with Yale ahead by twelve. I knew a score like this you could catch up in the second half as I have seen Michigan State (my undergraduate Alma Mater), come back from games with higher deficits. The problem with Cornell is that we kept missing all our shots and Yale kept making the three pointers. That was the difference in the game.

The second half was a bit better in the beginning. We started to catch up from the blood bath of the first half. We started to chip away at their lead. During the break, our cheerleaders came out and got the crowd going along with the band.

The Cornell Cheerleaders leading the way to a hopeful comeback and victory in the second half of the game.
We starting catching up in the second half and came out fighting. We were able to get the score within seven points with three and a half minutes left to the game. The crowds were exploding on the Cornell side and Yale got very quiet for about a minute and a half. It looked like the game was going to turn around.

You got to keep fighting!
We moved within seven points of the lead but we could not sustain the game. We kept missing the three point shots and easy layouts.

The teams battling it out but we could not put the game away.

In the end we chipped away to nine points but we could not come back from the deficient. We ended up losing by twelve points 69-57.
I like all the other Alumni was bummed at the loss. Several I heard went back to the Tavern as the Columbia versus Princeton Girls Basketball Teams started their game. I decided to walk around the neighborhood as I had not been up here in several years to walk around. I had not released I had written my blogs here in 2017.
I needed something sweet and remembered the bakery on Amsterdam Avenue that had been there for years that everyone kept raving about, Hungarian Pastry Shop. I stopped for some dessert. I had read and seen so many videos on the shop I wanted to try it. The lines were long all day and I had to get into the line for a half hour before I could get in.

The Hungarian Pastry Shop at 1030 Amsterdam Avenue
https://www.facebook.com/hungarianpastryshopnyc
My review on TripAdvisor:

The pastry cases.

I tried their version of the Napoleon, which was layers of Vanilla Cream, whipped cream and a caramel topping between the flaky layers and a Apple Strudel, that was loaded with fresh apples and cinnamon. I took the desserts across the street to the park and I have to tell you that they were terrific.

The pastries are amazing!
I ate them at the park across the street and just relaxed and watch the world go by. I admired the statuary in the park which I had seen when I visited the park years ago on my walk through here.
Down the long paths of plantings and around the bends of the property, I sat by the interesting statue at the center of the park. The breathtaking statue is called the “Peace Fountain”, created in 1985 which shows a unusual look at the battle between good and evil by artist Greg Wyatt, who was an artist in residence at the church.

Artist Greg Wyatt
https://gregwyattsculpture.com
Mr. Wyatt has graduated from Columbia College with BA in Art History and studied at National Academy of Design. He bases his work on the philosophy of the “spiritual realism’ merging realistic images and abstract forms of space, form and energy (Wiki).

The ‘Peace Fountain’ by artist Greg Wyatt

The sign from the sculpture.
I decided rather than head off to a museum downtown, I would update my blogs in this part of the City and walk around Morningside Heights, Bloomingdale and parts of the Upper West Side. It was a nice afternoon and it was a chance to catch up and see what was going on in the neighborhoods and what had changed. I have to say that the SoHA section of Harlem (from 125th to 110th from Morningside Park to Fifth Avenue) has really changed and gentrified even more than I remembered. This was the same with the Bloomingdale section of the Upper West Side (from 110th to 94th Streets from Riverside Park to Central Park).
My blog on Morningside Park Day Sixty-Nine:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/3909
My blog on SoHA Day Sixty-Eight:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/3900
My blog on Bloomingdale Day Eighty-One:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/5822
I walked all around Morningside Park amazingly enough not looking as dangerous as everyone said it was now. There were plenty of people walking their dogs, conversing in the park and playing basketball. The flowers were just starting to bloom and the park by the pond looked really pretty.

Morningside Park in bloom

The pond area of Morningside Park

The pond with Columbia University in the background.
I walked all around the streets and avenues looking at old restaurants that had closed or moved, businesses that changed hands and how much the neighborhoods have changed in seven years.

West Place Chinese Restaurant at 1288 Amsterdam Avenue
https://www.seamless.com/menu/west-place-express-inc-1288-amsterdam-ave-new-york/4672840
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
Not wanting to head home without eating dinner, I went to West Place Chinese Restaurant at 1288 Amsterdam Avenue for dinner and this time I tried the Boneless Spareribs with Fried Rice and an Egg Roll combination platter and the meal was excellent as usual. I had not eaten here in months and the food is consistently excellent. The portion size was larger than I remember from the last time. They really piled the food into the container.

The Boneless Spareribs with Fried Rice and an Egg Roll.

The Boneless Ribs were overflowing on the platter.
These sweet and juicy bites are full of flavor and piled into this small dish. There was enough food for two people.

The Egg Rolls are amazing.
By this time it was getting dark and I wanted to head home. I took the subway at 125th Street, got the joy of watching some kid jump the turn style and then headed up to take the subway back downtown.
It may not have been a good game but it gave me a chance to revisit several neighborhoods, update blogs, eat some terrific food and enjoy a day supporting Cornell University on what should have been our championship year (Yale eventually won the Ivy League Championship by one point over Brown and will go off to the NCAA Championship).
Still it was a nice day out. Go Big Red!
Places to Eat:
Lion’s Head Tavern
995 Amsterdam Avenue
New York, NY
Open: Sunday 11:00am-2:00am/Monday 12:00pm-2:00am/Tuesday-Friday 12:00pm-3:00am/Saturday 11:00am-4:00am
Review on TripAdvisor:
Koronet Pizza
2848 Broadway
New York, NY 10025
Phone: (212) 222-1566
Fax: (212) 212-0664
https://www.koronetpizzany.com/
Open: Sunday-Saturday-10:30am-11:15pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/diningonashoestringinnyc.wordpress.com/273
Hungarian Pastry Shop
1030 Amsterdam Avenue
New York, NY 10025
https://www.facebook.com/hungarianpastryshopnyc
Open: Sunday 8:30am-8:30pm/Monday-Friday 7:30am-8:30pm/Saturday 8:30am-8:30pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on LittleShoponMainStreet@Wordpress.com:
West Place Chinese Restaurant
1288 Amsterdam Avenue
New York, NY 10027
http://www.west-place-indy.com/
Telephone: (212) 932-9390 and 9376
Open: Sunday-Saturday 11:00am-11:00pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/diningonashoestringinnyc.wordpress.com/591
Places to Visit:
Morningside Park
Morningside Drive
(212) 639-9675
Open: Sunday-Saturday 6:00am-1:00am
My review on TripAdvisor:
I walked a tremendous number of miles today. I had wanted to see three cultural sites before I left the Harlem area. I wanted to visit the Museum of Arts & Letters, The Studio Art Museum of Harlem and Grant’s Tomb. So, my trip on this hot Sunday started at the 157th Street One Subway station. I had wanted to start at the Museum of Arts & Letters.
The whole campus that the museum shares with the Hispanic Society was closed for renovation, so I walked from 155th Street to 122nd Street to tour the Grants Tomb National Memorial. The tomb is open only at certain times, so I wanted to get to the park early.
It has only been three months since I left this part of Harlem, and a lot has changed. Even I can’t keep up with all the changes as I was walking down Broadway. Many of the businesses that I passed have since closed. Many of the storefronts as you get closer to the SUNY campus around 140th Street to about 132nd Street have converted to small trendy restaurants and clothing stores. Many of the older businesses that had catered to the neighborhood Hispanic customer now have ‘For Rent’ signs or are being updated for a more diverse customer. I had seen this happen in the short time I was walking Inwood in upper Manhattan.
When I got to General Grant National Memorial at 122nd Street (See TripAdvisor review and on VisitingaMuseum.com), there were already a couple parties going on around the park area. On a nice day, there are always birthday parties for kids in the park around the tomb. People in the neighborhood love to spend time with their families here and in the other parts that surround the area.

General Grant National Memorial (Grant’s Tomb) at West 122nd Street
https://www.nps.gov/gegr/index.htm
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
There were not that many people touring the tomb and the building itself, so it was nice to take my time. Designed by architect John Hemenway Duncan in 1883 and the tomb was dedicated in April 1897 on the 75th Anniversary of President Grant’s birth. The President’s remains were placed here right before the dedication and his wife was buried here in 1902 (Wiki/NYC Parks).

The inside of General Grant’s National Memorial

President Ulysses S. Grant (Wiki)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulysses_S._Grant
The vaults are amazing with paintings on the ceiling of scenes of his life that were put up in recent years. The crypts of him and his wife, Julia, are on the bottom level of the tomb surrounded by the busts of generals that fought in the Civil War with him. It does not take that long to tour the tomb or the gift shop.

The Rotunda and tombs inside of Grant’s Tomb
I learned a lot about our 18th President Grant by watching a film on him. I never knew at the end that he died broke and what saved the family were his memoirs. Amazing the things that happen in people’s lives in the end.

President and Mrs. Grant’s tombs
After the tour of the tomb, I walked down to the Studio Art Museum of Harlem and toured several of the exhibitions. The museum is located at 144 West 125th Street (See review on TripAdvisor and on VisitingaMuseum.com) and is open for viewing for free on Sundays with the support of Target Stores. The museum is small and only take about an hour to two hours to see all the exhibitions which is nice. Some museums the exhibitions are endless, and it takes hours to see and absorb everything. The Studio Art Museum exhibitions are detailed but on a smaller scale.

The Studio Art Museum of Harlem
I was able to see artist Rico Gatson’s exhibition on 70’s influenced art, Jamel Shabazz’s exhibition of photo’s around 125th Street, which I don’t know if you could do today without releases and the “Regard the Figure” exhibition, which is in the front of the gallery on figures that influenced the curator.

The Rico Gatson exhibits at the museum
All were very interesting and had their own unique perspective of the culture. I was able to get through all three exhibitions in less than two hours. After viewing the exhibits, I sat on their outside patio to relax for a while. It was a hot day and I just needed to cool off in the shade. There had been a nice crowd in the museum that afternoon.

Rico Gatson’s Work at The Studio Art Museum of Harlem

Artist Rico Gatson in front of his work
After the Art Studio of Harlem, I walked down to the business district of 116th Street and went for some lunch. Like the rest of Harlem, things are opening and closing so fast you can’t keep up with them. Half the customers on 116th Street are White and Asian with lot of customers from Columbia University and the Upper West Side who are starting to come to this area to eat. There are many innovative restaurants opening up on the 116th Street row.
I had lunch at Harlem Pizza Company at 135 West 116th Street, a restaurant that I had passed and had read online that was very good (See review on TripAdvisor). The pizza was wonderful, and the service was very friendly and welcoming. I sat in the outdoor seating area, and it had cooled down a bit since it was later in the afternoon.

The Harlem Pizza Company at 135 West 116th Street (Closed June 2024)
Home
The restaurant is excellent, and I highly recommend it. I had a personal 12-inch pizza with sausage and soppressata that was perfectly cooked, the meats and sauce were highly spiced and was gooey and delicious. It was nice to just eat and watch the world walk by. It is a very relaxing that afternoon.
My next stage of the walk included walking Manhattan Valley, another name for the Upper Upper West Side. This area includes from West 110th Street from Riverside Drive to the West and Central Park North to the East and West 96th Street to the South. I was able to ring the neighborhood and work off breakfast and lunch at the same time.
I passed the Minerva Bernardino Greenstreet park on the way down West 110th Street. This tiny park is hard to miss as the flowers were blooming all over the place and tables were being set up around it by the restaurants. I thought it was a little cool of this.

The Minerva Bernardino Greenstreet Park at 110th Street
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/minerva-bernardino-greenstreet

The park was just starting to bloom.

The park was named after Diplomat Minerva Bernadino from the Dominican Republic
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minerva_Bernardino

Her biography of her accomplishments was on the street sign.

The Greenstreet gardens in 2025
I started the later part of the afternoon walking from Morningside Park to Central Park West. God was the park busy. There must have been four birthday parties, two barbecues, five basketball games, a soccer game and a softball league playing in various areas of the park.

Morningside Park in Harlem
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/morningside-park

Morningside Park in the Spring
A lot has changed in this side of town in the last 25 years. It is a major change from the mid-80’s when most of this area was abandoned. I remember seeing pictures of this area in the late 80’s and all through the 90’s and it was not such a nice area. Most of the housing was run down, Riverside Park was over-grown and sensible people did not travel above 86th Street.

The Morningside Park Pond in the early Spring
I had dinner with a vendor my last year at Macy’s in 1995 on 92nd Street and the vendors and my boss at the time said to take the subway to 86th and walk up. I took it to 96th and walked down and even then, I could see what they were talking about. It was run down but didn’t seem dangerous. Two weekends later I got adventurous and walked up to Columbia University. Those were the years where fences were put on the entrances to Morningside Park.

The pond and the waterfall in Morningside Park in the Fall of 2024
A lot of the buildings were abandoned and boarded up by 100th and the further you got from Central Park the worse it got. I had even overheard two Columbia students talking about the fires in buildings across Morningside Park the evening before. You would not see any of that today. The mood in the Fall of 2024 was nothing but pleasant and the whole area has gentrified. Most of the people walking in the park the afternoon I had visited were a white, upper middle-class couples with strollers.

Morningside Park Farmers Market in 2024
https://www.morningsidepark.org/farmers-market

The wonderful items to buy and eat at the Morningside Park Farmers Market
I was not surprised on how nice it was to walk around now. This area has improved so much in the last thirty years and keeps getting nicer and more expensive. Pretty much everything until the 130’s on this side of the island is getting a facelift. The east side of the island over 100th is more juxtaposed. All along Fredrick Douglas Boulevard, Malcolm X Boulevard and Adam Clayton Powell Boulevard new restaurants, cafes and shops have opened catering to a diverse group of New Yorkers.
I started my walk down Central Park West, walking past the apartments on the other side of the park. Everything has changed so much up here. Almost all the apartments facing the Central Park now are luxury homes and apartment buildings sandblasted back to their original elegance. Each building has its own unique style. The best part of them is their view of the park must be amazing.
I passed some unusual historical sites and artwork along the way. At the entrance of the subway station at Broadway and 96th Street is a statue of a woman holding her child by the artist, Joy Brown.
Ms. Brown was born and raised in Japan and holds a BFA from Eckerd College in Florida and has done a lot of her personal training in the field. She is known for her work in pottery and bronze (Artist Bio)

Artist Joy Brown in front of one of her works
https://www.joybrownstudio.com
This very whimsical statue is part of a collection of statues that line Broadway and a map is provided at each site to find them. Some of the people thought it might be the Madonna and child. I guess everyone has their interpretation of it. There were a lot of families taking pictures by it when I was there.

Artist Joy Brown
https://www.facebook.com/joybrownsculpture
At the corner of 96th Street and West End Avenue is a plaque to Teresa Carreno, the famous Venezuelan pianist who lived at the Delha Robbins Apartments back at the turn of the last century. I had no clue how famous she was, but she had traveled over the world performing. She was a composer, conductor, soprano and pianist who composed over 75 original works. She also had interesting relationships that spread to four husbands.

Pianist Teresa Carreno
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Teresa-Carreno
She was quite the character at the turn of the last century. Here’s a sample of her work:
Pianist Teresa Carreno playing Chopin
When I made the turn around at 96th Street, there is no exit so be prepared to walk down to 95th Street and go under the tunnel by Riverside Park. Go under and around and take some time to walk through Riverside Park and take in the view. I had walked through this area last summer on my way up to 155th Street after some time at the American Museum of Natural History. It is nice to see the park in full bloom again.
I passed the Firemen’s Memorial at Riverside Drive at 100th Street and the Shinran Statue at 105th Street. I have never seen these before and the Firemen’s Memorial means a lot to me being a fireman. It’s nice to see the memorial being visited and flowers being left.

Artist Henry Van Buren Magonigle
https://www.anb.org/view/10.1093/anb/9780198606697.001.0001/anb-9780198606697-e-1700547
The memorial was designed by H. Van Buren Magonigle and the statues that flank it were designed by Attillo Pirccirilli. The two were well known for their design of memorials including the U.S.S. Maine statue on Columbus Circle (NYCParks).
The statues represent “Duty” and “Sacrifice” on both sides of the memorial. The idea for the memorial came about in 1908 at the funeral of Deputy Chief Charles A. Kruger by Reverend Henry C. Potter who questioned why there were no memorials to our private public servants (NYCParks.com).

The Firemen’s Memorial in Riverside Park

The back of the Firemen’s Memorial

The detail work of the Memorial

The tablet at the Memorial
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/riverside-park/monuments/482
The Shinran Statue was dedicated to Buddhism. The interesting part of the statue is that the statue came from Hiroshima from outside a temple in the city and when the atomic blast happened as the temple burned this statue stood guard. The statue was then shipped to New York in 1955 and has stood, radiation free in New York City since then. I now sit as a monument to world peace (Atlas Obscura).

The Shinran Statue on Riverside Drive
Along Riverside Drive between 107th and 108th Street, there is a majestic set of mansions that line Riverside Park. These are going under renovation but still the detail work on these homes is very elegant and must have been something when they were built at the turn of the last century. They stand out amongst all the apartment buildings that line the park.

As I turned around at 110th Street and walked back around the same route on the other side of the street. One of the most beautiful spots along Riverside Avenue is between 96th and 97th Streets with a line of shade trees that must be over 100 years old. It is just so graceful and humbling to see these huge trees and the way they shade and lead the path down this part of the sidewalk. Its nature at its best.

Riverside Park in the 110 Street area in the Fall of 2024
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/riverside-park
I passed Central Park on the park side of Central Park West and when you reach around 100th Street, you see the rock formations that line the avenue. This is a result of the last Ice Age and I had seen similar formations uptown. Again this is when you realize that Manhattan is not flat. Nature takes over when you see the trees and plants growing through the cracks. This picturesque part of the park with trees, bushes and flowers sticking out here and there through the formations. Its wall is what separates the park from the street.

The rock formations prove that Manhattan was moved by the ice age in Fall 2024

Rock formations in the Upper Part of Central Park in the Summer of 2024

This part of Central Park reminds us that Manhattan isn’t all flat.
When reaching 110th Street at the corner of that and Central Park West, several new buildings are built around the circle of the two streets. Modern architecture dominates this part of the street and ushers in a new beginning to this once destitute section of the neighborhood as a gateway to a new beginning for the neighborhood. The lines of the Upper West Side and Harlem on this side of the island are beginning to blur.

West 110th Street is changing with new construction and gentrification of the brownstones in the lower parts of Harlem
We’ll see more as we visit more of the neighborhood on a tour of the streets and avenues. I ended the day with a trip to McDonald’s just off 96th Street and Amsterdam Avenue (See review on TripAdvisor).

McDonalds at 2549 Broadway
https://www.mcdonalds.com/us/en-us/location/ny/new-york/2549-broadway/2002.html
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
That McDouble and fries tasted so good as they were freshly cooked for me.

The McDonald’s Strawberry Lemonade is one of the unofficial drinks of “MywalkinManhattan.com.
The best is their frozen Strawberry Lemonade which cooled me down inside and out. It is one of the best things recently added to the McDonald’s menu and a perfect drink for a hot summer day.
Read my other Blogs on the Bloomingdale neighborhood:
Day Ninety-Three: Walking the Borders of the Upper Upper West Side:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/6760
Day Ninety-Four: Walking the Avenues of the Upper Upper West Side:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/6842
Day Ninety-Seven: Walking the Streets of the Upper Upper West Side:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/7100
Places to Eat:
Harlem Pizza Company (Closed June 2024)
135 West 116th Street
New York, NY 10026
(212) 222-9889
My review on TripAdvisor:
McDonald’s
2549 Broadway
New York, NY 10025
(212) 864-8138
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/diningonashoestringinnyc.wordpress.com/541
Places to Visit:
General Grant National Memorial (Grant’s Tomb)
West 122nd Street & Riverside Drive
New York, NY 10027
Open: Monday & Tuesday Closed/Sunday, Wednesday-Saturday 10:00am-5:00pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/visitingamuseum.com/1354
Studio Museum of Harlem
144 West 125th Street
New York, NY 10027
(212) 864-4500
Open: Currently closed for renovation
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum:
https://wordpress.com/post/visitingamuseum.com/1405
Firemen’s Memorial
West 100th Street & Riverside Drive
New York, NY 10025
(212) 639-9675
http://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/memorial
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/riverside-park/monuments/482
Things to See:
Artist Rico Gatson
http://www.artnet.com/artists/rico-gatson/
Artist Joy Brown
Broadway Art
I started the day walking 125th Street again on a beautiful sunny February day. It must have been 62 degrees out, sunny and glorious. The kids in the city like in the suburbs were off from school for the winter break, so everyone was outside in the parks enjoying the warm weather. The streets were crowded with people walking their dogs, students from Colombia walking around between classes and neighborhood children playing football and baseball in the parks.
With all the area above 125th finally complete, I have started to walk the neighborhoods below traditional Harlem and above the Upper East and West sides. Morningside Heights is the area bordered by Morningside Avenue to 110th to 125th to Riverside Square Park, South Harlem is from Fredrick Douglas Boulevard, South Harlem is bordered again from Fredrick Douglas Boulevard to Fifth Avenue from 110th to 125th Streets and Spanish Harlem from 5th Avenue to FDR Drive from 110th to 125th Streets. So this time to make it easier I have broken it up into three sections to do the walk.
I started the walk today at 125th Street at Morningside Avenue walking shoppers and tourists milling around the shopping district at 125th Street. The whole shopping district is going through a transformation from old cut-rate stores and family businesses to a series of chain restaurants, stores and gyms. Every business you find in a suburban strip mall are coming to Harlem from TJMax and Rainbow to Red Lobster and Olive Garden. It is pretty shocking how fast it has changed but even more how the flavor of the area is being adjusted to tourism.

The famous Apollo Theater is surrounded by Red Lobster and Whole Foods now
https://www.apollotheaters.org/
Another surprising aspect of the neighborhood is how nice it has gotten. Gone are the days that Colombia University had to practically erect walls to keep the neighborhood out. Colombia students like their fellow SUNY students thirty blocks up are starting to move in and take over this neighborhood. The South Harlem area is awash with scaffolding of people renovating the buildings and new restaurants and shops.
Morningside Park, which pretty much is the traditional border between the university and Harlem has been renovated over the past twenty years and is no longer the dismal overgrown park that you would get mugged in if you entered. My dad went to Colombia in the 60’s and my cousin in the 80’s and in those years, you would never enter the park. In 1993-95, the park was renovated and had new plantings and equipment installed in the park, giving it the same cheerful appearance of any other park in the city. Does it have it’s share of problems still? Like any park in New York City after dusk, you have to watch yourself.

Morningside Park near Columbia University
Because of the weather being so warm at this time, the park was being spruced up with park employees raking and cleaning up the beds and lawns. The garbage was being picked up as well and the park looked clean and well planted. With it being February, not much is in bloom but you can see where tulips and daffodils are starting to pop up in the soil. Lots of people were jogging in the park, walking with baby carriages or playing sports. A far cry from the needle and crack cocaine days in the 80’s. You can see the new landscaping and water features that have been created in the park and at dusk the lights actually work.

Morningside Park in bloom in the late Winter.
I traveled down the road planning on visiting the park again in more detail. I turned at 110th Street and walked the entire length of 110th from west side to east side and talk about a street of extremes. As you walk towards Riverside Park, you have Colombia to the north and the very top of the Upper West Side to the south. The buildings on this side of West 110th have been sandblasted back to their original elegance and from what I can see of the residents had never really gone down hill with the rest of the neighborhood.

Riverside Park by 110th Street
Amsterdam Avenue north of 110th Street has some interesting restaurants that I will need to try and I am discovering the holes in the wall that must cater to the students. Many have reasonable lunch specials and some have creative menus. I stopped in Riverside Park for a bit to relax before the long walk and the park was busy with nannies and mother’s with their kids in the 110th Street Tot Playground. The place was teaming with toddlers having a good time. The park still has not had the hint of Spring but having traveled this area last summer, it is a beautiful park when in bloom.
I walked down to Columbus Avenue and walked around the newly planted park area and discovered Hunan Chen’s Kitchen, a tiny hole in the wall restaurant at 1003 A Columbus Avenue (See review on TripAdvisor and on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com). This little restaurant has only one table and is so small you can barely turn around. What is lacks in atmosphere, it makes up in food and service.

Hunan Chen Kitchen off 110th Street at 1003A Columbus Avenue (Closed 2020)

The restaurant is now Dragon 109 but the prices are much higher than before
https://www.facebook.com/dragon109ny
The lady who works the counter could not have been friendlier and accommodating. The prices were so cheap that you can order a nice meal for under $10.00 that could feed two people and for $5.00 you can buy a nice snack in their appetizer and soup section. I ordered an eggroll and a pint of Roast Pork Lo Mein. I must have gotten a pound of Lo Mein that was steaming hot and loaded with roast pork. It was delicious and well seasoned. The eggroll could have had more roast pork in it but was still plump and well-cooked.
I was able to eat in on the benches in Morningside Park at the entrance at 110th Street. It was nice to people watch on a warm day and fun to see the students finally utilizing the park for pleasure.

Their Roast Pork Lo Mein with egg roll is the best!
After lunch, it was a the long walk to the northern stretches of Central Park and the Harlem Meer. This section of the park was packed with people. Seniors were fishing in the Meer (lake) and the kids were playing in the playground by the Lenox Avenue entrance. This area had been replanted and fixed in the late 90’s and again in the early 2000’s by the city with the help of the Central Park Conservatory. People were taking pictures of the ducks or chasing the pigeons around the park.

The Charles A. Dana Discover Center and the Harlem Meer
https://www.centralparknyc.org/locations/charles-a-dana-discovery-center
I had an interesting afternoon at the Charles A. Dana Discover Center located on the Meer and reading how the area was so influential in the Revolutionary War. Much of the battles had taken place in this area and the forts were located right in the park boundaries. The Battle of Harlem was not far from this spot and it was amazing how the area went back to nature once the war was over.

The Harlem Meer with the Dana Center in the background
https://www.centralparknyc.org/locations/harlem-meer
https://www.nycgovparks.org/park-features/central-park/the-davis-center
My review on TripAdvisor:

The Harlem Meer in the late afternoon
The panels tell the story of the area and you should take about an hour and really read about the areas part in the war. On such a beautiful day the park really sparkled and it looked like a lot of adults were playing hooky on such a nice day.

The Harlem Meer and Fifth Avenue
Crossing Fifth Avenue to Madison Avenue is the start of the extremes of 110th Street. You will pass what was once public housing but looks like it is going ‘market rate’ with renovations and once you pass the border of Madison Avenue, you will enter Spanish Harlem and a series of public housing projects. Again this area was alive with people but the mood of the area is completely different.

The Lehman Village Houses
The Spanish influence was all over the place. On the walls of the stores and in the restaurants and signs as well as the music. There must be at least four or five housing projects in this area in various degrees of maintenance. Some were well maintained like by the Lehman Houses. By the Houses, it got a little scary. I would not venture in that area at night. At the end of 110th Street, you have the East River Houses, that look like a more pleasant middle-class looking development.

Lehman Houses (be careful walking around them)
I walked around Thomas Jefferson Park, a space of green that needs a serious renovation. The park could use a little sprucing up from what I could see. I did not want to enter the basketball grounds due to a scary looking group of teens and walked around the edges of the park. Just south of the park on New Street, Zip Car seems to have their headquarters and the whole lot is lined with cars.

Thomas Jefferson Park in East Harlem
The funny part about 110th street in this area is that it is dotted with new housing, bars and restaurants. The 20 year old set is starting to move into this area. On a rather seedy stretch of 110th, I was always looking over my shoulder until I saw some 20 year old ‘hipster’ with shorts on and an expensive iPhone playing that I felt like a jerk. Either I was the one worrying or he was putting himself at risk.
I stopped for a snack at El Chevere Cuchifritos, a Spanish restaurant, take-out place and bakery at 2000 Third Avenue for some pastilitoes. I ordered them with my broken Spanish which seemed to pass fine as the woman waiting on me understood what I said. I ordered a chicken and beef but got a cheese and they were good but not as good as some I have had in Washington Heights. They are reasonable at $1.50 each and very fresh. They have a nice selection of reasonable hot foods to take out and I just munched on them on the trip back up 110th to Fifth Avenue.

El Chevere Cuchifrito Bakery at 2000 Third Avenue
Fifth Avenue from 110th to 125th Streets was where I was lining my walk to concentrate in this area. I walked up and down Fifth Avenue to Marcus Garvey Park and walked around the park which was packed with people walking their dogs by the dog park and kids playing in the playground. Even though the avenue is lined with public housing, the area is dotted with new developments especially on the north and west parts of the park.

Marcus Garvey Park (Mount Morris Park)
The west side of Marcus Garvey Park is the Mount Morris Historical Area. This stretches from about 124th Street to 118th Street and has the most beautiful and graceful brownstones the line the side streets by the park. This area like the rest of Harlem is being sandblasted and renovated back to an earlier era and people are snatching up these homes.

Mount Morris Historical District
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Morris_Park_Historic_District
I finished this park of the walk by walking down Fifth Avenue through the Taft Homes that line the streets and back down 110th and back up Morningside Avenue and then down Manhattan Avenue to finish off the walk for this part of the visit to the area.
This is a huge area to cover so I will be breaking the visit down into three sections to really see what the neighborhood has to see and offer. I have already walked the boarders of 125th Street and 110th Street and will continue on to do the avenues first and then the side streets. So join me as we explore the newest in ‘hip’ areas, SoHA.
Please read my other blogs on walking East Harlem:
Day Sixty-Eight: Walking the Borders of SoHA:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/3900
Day Seventy-One: Walking the Borders of SoHA:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/4303
Day Seventy-Three: Walking the Borders of SoHA/East Harlem:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/4798
Day Seventy-Five: Walking the Avenues of Spanish Harlem:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/5066
Day Seventy-Eight: Walking the Streets of East Harlem:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/5529
Places to Visit:
Mount Morris Park (Marcus Garvey Park)/Historic District
120th to 124th Street by Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10029
(212) 639-9675
Open: Sunday-Saturday 6:00am-10:00pm
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/marcus-garvey-park
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Morris_Park_Historic_District
Thomas Jefferson Park
2180 First Avenue
New York, NY 10029
(212) 639-9675
Open: Sunday-Saturday 6:00am-10:00pm
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/thomas-jefferson-park
Harlem Meer/Charles A Dana Discovery Center
Central Park North
New York, NY 10029
(212) 860-1370
Open: Sunday-Saturday 10:00am-5:00pm
http://www.centralparknyc.org/things-to-see-and-do/attractions/harlem-meer.html
https://www.centralpark.com/things-to-do/attractions/harlem-meer/
My review on TripAdvisor:
Places to Eat:
Hunan Chen’s (Closed 2020)
1003 Columbus Avenue Store A
New York, NY 10025
(212) 222-1118
Open: Sunday 12:00pm-10:30pm/Monday-Thursday 11:00am-10:30pm/Friday & Saturday 11:00am-11:00pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/diningonashoestringinnyc.wordpress.com/24
El Chevere Cuchifritos
2000 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10029
(212) 427-3952
Open: Sunday-Saturday 11:00am-4:00pm
My review on TripAdvisor: