It was another hot day in Manhattan. I worked a double shift at the Soup Kitchen so I was there until 3:00pm. The weather was a lot cooler since the rain showers but still hot. It was a lot better to walk around though.
I started my walk on Fifth Avenue and East 19th Street across from the old Arnold Constable Department store building. In comparison to the newer store across from the New York Public Library on Fifth and East 42nd Street, this store was four times the size. I had read online that not only was it the main store at the time but the warehouse, wholesale location and where some of the manufacturing took place. This building that stretches from Fifth Avenue to Broadway and was built in three stages over the late 1800’s.
The former Arnold Constable building at Fifth Avenue and East 19th Street
When I crossed Broadway, it was the ABC store, the former store that dominates between Broadway and 19th Street, the old main shopping district from the pre-Civil War era. After the Civil War, it would move to 23rd Street. This was the former W. & J. Sloane’s Furniture store.
The ABC Store, the former at Broadway and East 19th Street
When I walked further down East 19th Street to Park Avenue South, I came across the new location for the Union Square Cafe at 101 East 19th Street a restaurant I had eaten at many times in the old location since the 1990’s.
I stopped and took a look at the menu. It wasn’t the innovative menu that I remember from past trips to the old restaurant. They had the standard dishes that I had seen before. It looked like they were keeping it safe in post-COVID but I did note that the restaurant has gotten very expensive.
The one thing I did like about the restaurant is that it had the most amazing outdoor seating. On a nice day this is the perfect restaurant to eat outside. The view of the quiet street and the historical buildings is a nice backdrop to the restaurant.
The outdoor cafe on this bright, sunny day
I had remembered the Union Square Cafe in the old location and the vibe was not the same here. It was like they wanted to cater to a hipper younger crowd instead of the older traditional crowd that they had before as customers. I continued walking down the street.
As you get closer to Irving Place, it starts to get more residential. Some of the homes are really beautiful. The residents have really done a nice job with their flower boxes and outdoor gardens in the neighborhood.
The homes closer to Irving Place on East 19th Street
I reached Irving Place and was confronted with the embellishments I had admired at 81 Irving Place. They were just so unusual and ghoulish. I think this is one of the more unique buildings in the neighborhood.
81 Irving Place is one of the most beautiful apartment complexes in the city that I have come across. The embellishments along the building are some of most detailed and elegant I have seen. This prewar Co-Op was built in 1929. You have to walk around the building to appreciate it and from the street level you can see all these wonderful details.
The strange creatures
Surround this building
On all sides of it
They stare at you
Welcoming you to the building
Protecting you
Staring at you
Welcoming you home
Happy to see you
Sad to see you
The faces great you with strange looks
Coat of Arms
Coat of Arms
Coat of Arms
I had not noticed all of this when I had walked the borders of the neighborhood. I just saw all these detail from a distance. When you walk along East 19th Street, you see all designs in one long shot. I thought whoever created this building had a sense of humor. When I turned around on this corner, you really can enjoy the beauty of the building.
Another building where I had not noticed the elegance before was 33 East 19th Street. You really have to stare up to see the details of the faces and animals.
This former office building was built in 1920 and have been converted to loft apartments.
The faces greeting from the top of the building so you have to look up to look back
The strange stares you get from the building are almost a judgement call
The lions protecting the building from the top
As I walked past Broadway, I passed 889 Broadway, which I had passed many times before. Just like other buildings on this street, there are more details on the street level rather than on the main avenues.
889 Broadway-The former Gorham Manufacturing Company Building
The beauty of 889 Broadway can be seen on all sides but you have to look at every angle of the building to appreciate it. There is all sorts of masonry and iron work around the building that gives it unique look. The building was designed by architect Edward Hale Kendall in the Queen Ann style and finished in 1884. The company moved uptown in 1905 when the retail district started to move further north (Wiki).
The unique carvings and metal work on the building
More faces watching you on the street making judgement calls
119 Fifth Avenue at the corner of East 19th Street in the Flatiron District neighborhood of Manhattan, New York City was built in 1905-06 and was designed by John H. Duncan in the neo-Renaissance style. It was built to be an annex to the Lord & Taylor department store buildings which took up most of the square block between Broadway and Fifth Avenue and East 19th and 20th Streets, being connected by bridge to two of them. After Lord & Taylor moved uptown in 1914, the building had multiple uses (Wiki).
The lion watching over you
The stonework at the top of building
This section of Fifth Avenue was meant to impress when this was the financial and retail center of Manhattan. The buildings were designed in the Neo-Classical and Beaux Arts style sowing the importance of the companies who created them, who are that point long gone. This area had been the center of business before and after the Civil War.
I then rounded the Fifth Avenue business core and walked down East 18th Street and came across one of the most beautifully designed firehouses I have ever seen in the City, Engine 14. In all my times walking around Manhattan, I don’t think I have ever walked down this street before because I never noticed this.
Engine 14 at East 18th Street was under renovation but it’s 1894 facade peeked out
The building is currently under renovation. Engine Co. 14 was erected in 1895 by architect Napoleon LeBrun, who designed this in the Beaux Arts design. This style is typical of the earliest New York City firehouses (Manhattan Sideways).
This was under the scaffolding
I turned the corner at East 17th Street and most of these buildings have a historic value to them and I was surprised by the collection of retailers on this block. I thought it would be a bit more upscale. I looked up at 16 East 17th Street and thought I heard the roar of a lion.
The former office building was designed by William Dilthey and built in 1898. It had originally had been a button factory. It was converted to a Coop in 1979 (Corcoran.com/Bondnewyork.com).
The lion sculpture on East 18th Street
The lions protect you as you enter the building.
When I was walking back down East 17th Street I had not noticed this beautiful carving on 874 Broadway. This is on the corner of the McIntrye Building.
The McIntyre Building was the work of Ewen McIntrye, a pharmacist whose building had grown and had made him wealthy. He demolished the store he had on this spot and built this office building. The structure was designed by architect Robert Henry Robertson in a mixture of designs of the time. You can see Gothic Revival and Renaissance Revival and Victorian Eclectic in the design especially at the top of the building (DaytoninManhattan.com).
When I got to East 17th Street, I really got an excellent view of the northern part of Union Square Park. This is where you can see the real changes of the park. It is so lively and residents and business people use it as a place to unwind and relax.
The northern section of Union Square Park
Facing the northern section Union Square Park is 33 East 17th Street. I have always admired this building for its embellishments and the elegance of the design.
The now Barnes and Nobel Publishing was once known as the Century Building, due to Century Publishing Company making this their headquarters from 1881 to 1915. It is also known as the Drapery Building. The building was designed by architect William Schickel and was completed in 1881 as a real estate project by the department store company Arnold Constable & Company. Left empty through the 1970’s, it was renovated by Barnes and Nobel as their headquarters in 1995 (Wiki).
The details on the doorway of 33 East 17th Street
The doorway entrance to the store at 33 East 17th Street
This fascinating face is on the left side of the entrance to 33 East 17th Street
The look from this face shows the determination of a serious book buyer
As I passed Union Square Park, I passed the old Tammany Hall Building at 100 East 17th Street. The balance of power in New York City has changed since and it now the home of Petco Pet Products.
The side of the old Tammany Hall at 122 East 17th Street
The Tammany Hall building 100 East 17th Street is now a Petco
The building was designed by the architectural firm of Thompson, Holmes & Converse and Charles B. Meyers for the Tammany Society political organization, known as Tammany Hall. It was designed in the neo-Georgian style and built in 1929. It was the organization oldest surviving headquarters building. After the loss of the organization’s political power in the early 1930’s, it was sold to the International Ladies Garment Workers Union and in present times has been used as a theater and performance space. It is now occupied by Petco (Wiki).
The symbols of Tammany Hall at the East 17th Street entrance
As I passed the commercial buildings of the neighborhood to the more residential buildings of Irving Place and passed the former carriage house at 121 East 17th Street.
The old carriage house at 121 East 17th Street-Martinys
This carriage house is a holdover from when Union Square was a fashionable neighborhood before the Civil War. After the war was over, the commercial neighborhood of Manhattan moved from Canal Street to between 14th to 23rd Street. This small carriage house survived all the decades of change to the neighborhood (DaytoninManhattan.com). I thought this a gracious building that added to the historical and Old New York look of the Gramercy Park neighborhood.
At the very edge of the neighborhood in Irving Place is the Washington Irving House that wasn’t his house.
The Washington Irving House that Washington Irving never lived in at 122 East 17th Street on the corner of East 17th Street and Irving Place
The “Irving House” was built by Peter Voorhis between 1843 and 1844, along with the adjacent two houses at 45 and 47 Irving Place. The original tenants of 49 Irving Place (at that time referred to as 122 East 17th Street) were Charles Jackson Martin, an insurance executive, and his wife, who would reside there from 1844 until 1852. Henry and Ann E. Coggill would live in it in 1853, and in 1854 it would become the home of banker Thomas Phelps and his wife Elizabeth, who would remain until 1863 (Atlasobsucra.com).
The first mention in print of Irving having lived in the house came in the Sunday Magazine Supplement of the New York Times on April 4, 1897. The article is a human interest story about Elsie de Wolfe and the means and methods she used to decorate “Irving’s house.” In 1905, de Wolfe would become known as the first professional interior decorator and it appears this article is an early attempt at publicity for her. As for the information about Irving, the article takes enormous liberties (actually, it flat-out makes things up), claiming that Irving had conceived of the house himself and was very particular about the architecture and design (Atlasobsucra.com).
Looking up Broadway to the old shopping district from East 17th Street
When I reached the border of the neighborhood at Irving Place, you could see the tradition of the old commercial and residential districts of the neighborhood. These have become blurred over time as restaurants, bars and boutiques have moved into former residential buildings.
On the way back to Union Square Park, I walked through the parks to admire all the flowers and gardens that were in full bloom and stopped to sit on a bench in the shade.
The view of Union Square Park at East 17th Street on the walk back to Fifth Avenue
In the northern part of the park is the impressive statue of Abraham Lincoln. The one thing that I like about New Yorkers as opposed to other cities is that they look at statuary as a debate but not so quick to knock it down like in other cities. Either that or no one really noticed it at the time of the riots. These valuable art works are meant to be debated and discussed not torn down or hidden because someone does not agree with them.
Located at the northern end of the Union Square is the prominent statue of President Lincoln. This statue stands and overlooks the lawn of the park.
This impressive statue of Abraham Lincoln was designed by sculptor Henry Kirke Brown and was dedicated in 1870. In his statue of Lincoln, cast in 1868, and dedicated September 16, 1870, he combines a classically styled pose with a perceptive naturalism, uniting realistic detail with an idealistic stance (NYCParks.org).
Artist Henry Kirke Brown was an American born artist who had studied with artists in Italy for his training. He is best known for his figurative historical statues. He also designed the statue of George Washington in Union Square.
I started my walk down East 16th Street at the Levi Parsons Morton plaque at the corner of Fifth Avenue and East 16th Street.
The Levi Parsons Morton historic plaque
The plaque of the former Vice-President’s home on Fifth Avenue.
Vice-President and former New York Governor Levi Parsons Morton
The B. Shackman & Company sign was for the former B. Shackman & Company novelty and toy store that was located here until the 1970’s. The store once sold all sorts of novelties and gifts (Ephemeral New York.com/Consumer Grouch).
31 Union Square West built in 1902-03 as the Bank of the Metropolis was designed by architect Bruce Price and designated a landmark in 1988. This early skyscraper shows the influence of the American Renaissance sensibility celebrated at the Chicago World’s Fair of 1893 (Streeteasy.com).
You have to look at the very corners of the top of this building to appreciate the roar of these lions
Just like East 17th Street, East 16th Street is filled with more interesting historical buildings.
The building was designed by architect Louis Korn for Martin Johnson and built between 1895 and 1896 (Wiki).
The corniches have such a fanciful design to them
As I walked down the street I noticed not just architecturally beautiful buildings but some very talented street artists left their mark in the neighborhood. Being so close to the Museum of Sex, I thought some were quite unique.
A fried egg
I won’t ask!
Love symbols
More love symbols
I love looking down the street with its small individually owned shops and restaurants give me faith that New York City is coming back strong after COVID. It is nice to see the City so alive.
This block leads into the heart of Union Square Park and to where the Farmers Market was going strong.
The beauty of the park by East 16th Street in the middle of the afternoon
I walked down East 15th Street and relaxed in the park for a while as it got hotter out. I walked along the flower beds and paths and admired the hard work it takes to maintain this park.
How colorful the park is at East 15th Street
I walked down East 15th Street and admired one the old bank buildings that was going through a renovation.
101 East 15th Street-The Union Square Savings Bank Building/Daryl Roth Theater
The bank itself was founded in 1848 and moved to this location in 1895. This building was designed by architect Henry Bacon in the neo classical design in 1905 and the building was finished in 1906. The bank closed in 1992 (Wiki).
The beauty in the side of the building facing East 15th Street
I find it interesting to look at these old buildings with names of companies long gone and ask myself, ‘What happened to them?’ and ‘What happened to them?’ These buildings were designed and built for companies that were once at the pinnacle of their success. Now they are being used for hotels and retail stores proving New York’s resilience to change and to time.
The last building that impressed me the most in the neighborhood was the apartment building at 105 East 15th Street with its garish details and graceful windows.
The Swannanoa is a 10-story Neo-Renaissance apartment building designed by architect Gilbert Schellinger, who was a renowned and prolific designer of residential buildings back in the late 1800’s and 1900’s. Constructed in 1898, this building is easily recognized by its bay windowed facade, elegant marble lobby and hallways, which have all been beautifully restored (Streeteasy.com).
In all the walks of this neighborhood that I have made walking back from NYU in the evening from class and I walked around and through Union Square Park and I had not noticed the sculpture on the edge of the park.
New York Legend-the front of the sculpture
New York Legend-the back of the sculpture
This unique and very creative sculpture was designed by artist Alexander Klingspor
This fascinating sculpture shows the urban legend of alligators lining in New York City sewers. With all the pollution in the water around Manhattan and the rest of the City, there is No Way this would happen. I’m surprised they can still live in Florida.
Artist Alexander Klingspor is Swedish born artist who works both in the United States and Sweden. He apprenticed under American artist Mark English. He is known for his paintings and sculptures (Wiki).
I then walked through the park for the last time that afternoon as it really started to get hot and watched the people sunning themselves, reading books or just conversing. Again it shows what time and a little effort being made can change things in Manhattan. I think the artists that dominated this area when it was going downhill would be shocked if they got out of a time machine to see how the area has changed.
Union Square Park in the late afternoon.
The Union Square Art and Farmers Market
Just remembering coming here for a hot dog with my father in 1982 and eating next to a transvestite I realized how times have changed. I think about all this when I am looking at young couples strolling around the Farmers Market with expensive baby carriages, looking at $5.00 for one cookie and $15.00 for a Cinnamon Banana Bread. I think it is no longer 1982 but 2024 post COVID and how far we have come. Union Square Park just shows how Manhattan just reinventing itself and changes with the time.
That’s New York City!
The other blogs on the Union Square neighborhood:
Day Three Hundred and Thirteen: Walking the Borders of Union Square:
We had another long day at Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen. Since the holiday weekend, the Soup Kitchen does not close on the holiday, but we do on the weekend, so we had long lines on this Monday morning and afternoon. We spent our whole morning packing up bags of snacks and wipes for the meals that will be served tomorrow. We finished by 10:30am (talk about teamwork) and I was able to walk around Union Square Park and both Broadway and Park Avenue South and still make it back for lunch at 12:30pm. It was a long morning and afternoon.
The Farmer’s Market was in full swing again and the place was mobbed. Many people must have taken this week off as well because the City seemed so quiet today as well. It has been quiet since July 1st and will stay that way for another week. People were out in force walking through the market with their dogs, talking with their friends and sitting in the grass at the parking reading and relaxing.
I looked over all the statuary in the park and I found I had missed quite a few things that I had not seen because either they had been covered up with the Farmer’s Market going on or tables of things people were selling in the park. There were all sorts of medallions on the history of the park and the neighborhood and there was a statue of a mother and her child that formed the old water fountain of the park. In the corner of the park near 14th Street, there is a statue of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. I had never noticed it before because all the landscaping and flowers had surrounded it.
The statue of Gandhi is hiding in the bushes on the southern corner of the park
As I walked around the Farmers Market, looking over the very over-priced fruits, vegetables and bakery products, J noticed more of the medallions that line the border of Union Square Park. The first one I admired without the sunlight distracting me was the medallion of the layout of the park from the 1800’s.
This is the original layout of the park in 1876 plaque
I walked around the park and marveled at it on a very hot afternoon. Like most parks in former edgy neighborhoods, it fascinates me how a bunch of twenty year old’s and families sun themselves and socialize where thirty years earlier you would be harassed by homeless, drug dealers and methadone addicts. You still might see them on the fringes of the part but not like in the early 1980’s.
The park now has a business partnership and I believe a Friends group as well. There are so many activities going on in the park, that I am sure people don’t notice all the chess hustlers and counterculture types on the 14th Street perimeter.
Looking at the southern part of the park facing 14th Street and the southern entrance to Broadway
I started my walk up Park Avenue South which is actually the western border of Gramercy Park. I have always been impressed by the W Hotel on the corner of 16th Street and Park Avenue South at 201 Park Avenue South.
This luxury hotel has an impressive history of being one of the innovators of luxury in the Marriott chain. The W Hotel concept was known for its edginess in design and the creativity in its restaurants. Things must be progressing as their customer gets older because their General Manager spoke to our Leadership class before I graduated from NYU and said they are softening the music (finally!) and changing the designs in the rooms. Maybe there will finally be a place to put your clothes.
The historic plaque on the building
This historic building was designed by the architects D’oench & Yost in the Modern French mode and built in 1911. Like most historic office buildings below 23rd Street, the are being refitted as hotels and condos as the desire for high ceilings and soaring lobbies have become desirable. This building had been designed for the Germanic Life Insurance Company Wiki).
I continued up Park Avenue South to East 20th Street to see another familiar building on the border of the neighborhood, 250 Park Avenue South. This building seems to be on the border of many Manhattan neighborhoods.
250 Park Avenue South was designed by architects Rouse & Goldstone in 1911 in the Neo-Classical design. You have to look at the building from a distance to appreciate all the interesting embellishments on the sides and top of the building.
The building 16 East 17th Street was plain but I thought these lions the adorned the build were pretty cool.
The building was designed by William Dilthey and built in 1898. The building’s style, scale and materials contribute to the special architectural and historic characteristics of the Ladies Mile District (Corcoran Group).
On the way back to Union Square Park, I passed the Tammany Hall building at 100 East 17th Street that I never noticed before because it was always under scaffolding being renovated. Now you could admire it the way the architects wanted you to originally.
The Tammany Hall building 100 East 17th Street is now a Petco
The building was designed by the architectural firm of Thompson, Holmes & Converse and Charles B. Meyers for the Tammany Society political organization, known as Tammany Hall. It was designed in the neo-Georgian style and built in 1929. It was the organization oldest surviving headquarters building. After the loss of the organization’s political power in the early 1930’s, it was sold to the International Ladies Garment Workers Union and in present times has been used as a theater and performance space. It is now occupied by Petco (Wiki).
The design on the top of the building is the logo for Tammany Hall
The Society of Tammany or Columbia Order sign above the entrance on East 17th Street
From Park Avenue South Union Square East is the extension of the street that lines the eastern end of the park. At the corner of East 15th Street and Union Square East is 101 East 15th Street the old Union Square Savings Bank building.
101 East 15th Street-The Union Square Savings Bank Building/Daryl Roth Theater
The side of the Union Square Savings Bank building
The bank itself was founded in 1848 and moved to this location in 1895. This building was designed by architect Henry Bacon in the neo classical design in 1905 and the building was finished in 1906. The bank closed in 1992 (Wiki).
I walked to the small triangle of Union Square Park that sits between East 15th and 14th Streets and came across a sculpture that I had never seen before on all my walks back from NYU. Maybe I just missed it when it was dark out. It was a depiction of an urban legend of the NYC sewers.
Artist Alexander Klingspor is Swedish born artist who works both in the United States and Sweden. He apprenticed under American artist Mark English. He is known for his paintings and sculptures (Wiki).
Across the street from the park on the way up Union Square East is tucked off in the corner of the park is the statue of General Lafayette. Why this important figure of the Revolutionary War is hidden is unfortunate.
The statue of General Marie-Joseph Paul Yves Roch Gilbert du Motier de La Fayette, Marquis de La Fayette
The larger-than-life-sized figure was sculpted by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, who also designed the Statue of Liberty (1886), another gift from the French government that figures prominently in New York Harbor. The granite pedestal designed by H.W. DeStuckle was donated by French citizens living in New York. (NYCParks.org).
Frederic Auguste Bartholdi was a French born artist best known for designing the Statue of Liberty. Bartholdi attended the Lycée Louis-le-Grand in Paris where he graduated in 1852. He then went on to study architecture at the Ecole nationale superieure des Beaux-Arts (Wiki).
I walked through the northern half of the park through the now busy Farmers Market again to get to Broadway. While I walked through the crowds all I kept saying to myself is ‘doesn’t anyone work anymore?’ I could not understand the large crowds on a early Friday afternoon.
When I walk through the parks in the City, all I see is twenty and early thirty year old’s sunning themselves, talking on their cell phones or chatting with friends. In 1990, I was behind a desk at Macy ‘s busy as hell all day when I was all of their ages. Things have changed in thirty years.
The Union Square Market on a busy Friday afternoon
The northern end of the park from Broadway the day of the Union Square Farmers Green Market
I began the walk up Union Square West to Broadway. The stretch from Union Square Park from East 14th Street to East 20th Street was once a major shopping district right before the Civil War and is lined with the buildings of former department and specialty stores with their cast iron fronts and detailed embellishments. In some buildings you can still see the carvings of the old companies in the design of the front of the building.
These buildings are the ghosts of Sloan’s, Lord & Taylor, Arnold Constable, McCreery’s, FAO Schwarz, and other specialty stores whose names have either disappeared or who long moved uptown closer to Fifth Avenue. The irony of gentrification and time and the location of these beautiful buildings is that they are now filling up with new upscale independent and chain merchants filling in where past merchants have left. Old New York becomes new New York again.
The first building I noticed as I walked up Union Square West was under scaffolding. The Lincoln Building I could not see from the street or the view from the park but was able to read their historical plaque at street level. The building was designed by the architectural firm of R.H. Robertson with a combination of steel and masonry construction in the Romanesque Revival design. The building opened in 1890 (NY Landmarks Commission).
The historic plaque of the Lincoln Building which is under renovation with scaffolding in front of it. It will be interesting to see what emerges.
There were many buildings that faced Union Square Park that gives it a historical feel. The elegant look of the buildings with their neo-Classical and Beaux Arts designs gave the park the feel of the Victorian era of business. The first was 25 East 15th Street with its interesting details.
Union Square West facing the park
25 East 15th Street was built at the turn of the last century and it now fully renovated.
The beautiful details at the top of the building at 25 East 15th Street
The next building I admired was right across the street from the park as well at 31 Union Square West
31 Union Square West built in 1902-03 as the Bank of the Metropolis was designed by architect Bruce Price and designated a landmark in 1988. This early skyscraper shows the influence of the American Renaissance sensibility celebrated at the Chicago World’s Fair of 1893 (Streeteasy.com).
The details at the top of the building
The lions roar at the top of 31 Union Square East give the top of the building a unique style
Right next door to the old Bank of the Metropolis building is 33 Union Square East which I thought looked like a Moorish castle. This building has an illustrious past.
The Decker Building Union Square West
33 Union Square East-The Decker Building
The building was built for the Decker Brothers Piano Company and was designed by architect John H. Edelmann. It was completed in 1892 and has influence of Venetian and Islamic styles in the details of the building. From 1968 to 1973, loft space in the building was used by artist Andy Warhol for his studio, ‘The Factory’. This is where Valerie Solaris shot the artist in 1968 (Wiki).
The magnificent Moorish design on the top of the building
The Islamic influences of the building can be seen in its details at the top of the structure
I passed the park and the Farmers Market and took the walk up Broadway which I have made many times on my full walk of Broadway blog. This part of the neighborhood was once the main shopping district just before and after the Civil War and many of these buildings still stand in all their beauty. Unless you are a architectural major, many people don’t appreciate the elegance of this part of Broadway and its steep history in New York City business and trade.
Day One Hundred and Thirty-Nine: Exploring Broadway blog:
The first building I admired but I have to admit never really noticed is 867 Broadway. This is a building steeped in retail history as the home of Ditson & Company, retailers selling musical instruments and books (Daytonian in Manhattan.com).
The building was designed by architect George Washington Pope and was designed in the Romanesque Revival style. The building was completed in 1882 as the top marker is carved at the top of the building. They conducted business on the ground floor of the building until 1906 when they moved to a new headquarters on East 34th Street (DaytonianinManhattan.com).
I can’t believe this building is from 1882
The next series of buildings have the Cast Iron design that was becoming fashionable after the Civil War at 873 and 881 Broadway. These show the change of direction of American businesses at that time there was a permanence to their business and these buildings were meant to last.
873 Broadway-The former Hoyt, Spragues & Company Department store
As Union Square gave way from being a residential district to a commercial district after the Civil War, the old homes were torn down and were being replaced by a modern shopping district. The retailer Hoyt, Spragues & Company hired architect Griffith Thomas to design this store as the new headquarters of the company on the southern corner of 18th Street and Broadway. The other half of the block was the new Arnold Constable & Company store at 881 Broadway that stretched from Fifth Avenue to Broadway. The architect designed this store as well (Wiki/DaytonianinManhattan.com).
The cast iron front of 873 Broadway and its elaborate details
Next to 873 Broadway is the Fifth Avenue extension of the Arnold Constable & Company building. The company owned this entire side of the block and was an extremely large department store for its time.
Arnold Constable & Company had outgrown its Canal Street headquarters (which still exists at 309-311 Canal Street) and moved to this new location in 1869. The store had two more expansions to Fifth Avenue in 1872 and 1876 to Fifth Avenue for both retail and wholesale businesses. The facade on Broadway was designed by architect Griffin Thomas who had designed the the Hoyt, Spragues & Company building to give a continuous flow to the block. Arnold Constable added the Mansard Room as the building was designed in the Second Empire Commercial style. The store moved to Fifth Avenue in 1914 right across from the NY Public Library (which is now the annex across the street) (Wiki).
The Mansard Roof of the old Arnold Constable building designed in the Second Empire Commercial style
One of the buildings on Broadway that I have always admired for its details and embellishments is 889 Broadway. You really have to walk around this building to appreciate its details and the beautiful carvings and faces that stare back at you.
889 Broadway-The former Gorham Manufacturing Company Building
The beauty of 889 Broadway can be seen on all sides but you have to look at every angle of the building to appreciate it. There is all sorts of masonry and iron work around the building that gives it unique look. The building was designed by architect Edward Hale Kendall in the Queen Ann style and finished in 1884. The company moved uptown in 1905 when the retail district started to move further north (Wiki).
The cast iron and carved details of 889 Broadway
The carved faces of the embellishment of 889 Broadway
The last building in this former shopping district is the old Lord & Taylor building at 901 Broadway. This is one of the most elegant and most underrated building in the neighborhood. The problem with the building was the renovation of the Broadway side of the building throws off the rest of the design. The company used to use this building in its old Christmas window designs in their former Fifth Avenue store.
The former Lord & Taylor building is the border of the neighborhood and was the northern tip of the shopping district that expanded along 23rd Street from Broadway to Sixth Avenue. The store was designed in a Cast Iron design by architect James H. Giles. The store has one of the first steam-powered elevators in the City when it opened. This was all part of the Ladies Shopping Mile from just before the Civil War to the Gilded Age before it moved to 34th Street around 1905 (Wiki/Lord & Taylor history blog).
I made my way back down Broadway to admire the other side of the avenue and its historical set of buildings. The first was 888 Broadway, the home of ABC Carpet and the former home of W. & J. Sloan.
888 Broadway-The old W. & J. Sloan’s now ABC Carpeting
The building that now houses ABC Carpeting was once the headquarters of W. & J. Sloan. The building was designed by architect William Wheeler Smith and was completed in 1882. The store that once held floor after floor of high end rugs, furniture and decorative products for the home moved uptown in 1912 (DaytonianinManhattan.com).
The details of 888 Broadway
The details of 888 Broadway
Next to ABC Carpet is 876 Broadway, the former D.S. Hess Building. This impressive brick building was built for David S. Hess, a decorator and furniture dealer.
The brick building was designed by architect Henry Fernbech in the Renaissance style and was completed in 1884. The details are in the panels by the doors and display window. D.S. Hess moved out of the building in 1984 to a new location on Fifth Avenue and a series of retailers have rented the space since (DaytoninManhattan.com).
The McIntyre Building was the work of Ewen McIntrye, a pharmacist whose building had grown and had made him wealthy. He demolished the store he had on this spot and built this office building. The structure was designed by architect Robert Henry Robertson in a mixture of designs of the time. You can see Gothic Revival and Renaissance Revival and Victorian Eclectic in the design especially at the top of the building (DaytoninManhattan.com).
Broadway from another angle
874 Broadway from the front angles showing the commercial section of the building on East 17th Street
The elegant roof and details of 874 Broadway
I finished walking the neighborhood in just three hours and was able to enjoy walking around Union Square Park and just relaxing with some cold water on one of the benches. This is when I really discovered all the statuary and attributes to the park that I missed all these years. I had always been so busy passing by the park on my way to something that I never really noticed it before.
The Farmers Market was in full swing in northern section of Union Square Park when I returned and as I walked through the northern end of Union Square Park, I passed the Abraham Lincoln statue. It still surprises me that all these presidential statues survived the riots in 2020. Unlike other cities, New Yorkers did not knock down their statues.
The statue of Abraham Lincoln in Union Square Park
This impressive statue of Abraham Lincoln was designed by sculptor Henry Kirke Brown and was dedicated in 1870. In his statue of Lincoln, cast in 1868, and dedicated September 16, 1870, he combines a classically styled pose with a perceptive naturalism, uniting realistic detail with an idealistic stance (NYCParks.org).
Artist Henry Kirke Brown was an American born artist who had studied with artists in Italy for his training. He is best known for his figurative historical statues. He also designed the statue of George Washington in Union Square.
From there I strolled to the edges of the park admiring the landscaping and the work that the Union Square Partnership along with volunteers do to keep the park looking pristine. Like Bryant Park on West 42nd Street, these parks had a dark past made lighter by modern times and a new found enjoyment found in New York City parks.
I then just relaxed and admired the beauty of Union Square Park. I got to watch the sunbathers and dog walkers in the park.
Union Square Park in the late afternoon
As I explored the borders of the park, I came across a statue of a mother and child. I never noticed that this was an old water fountain for the park. It is always blocked off by vendors during either the Farmers or Arts Markets. With nothing in front of it, I could finally see it in its full form.
Consisting of a bronze statuary group atop a granite stepped pedestal, it was crafted by German sculptor Karl Adolph Donndorf and donated by philanthropist Daniel Willis James to promote public health as well as the virtue of charity (NYCParks.org).
Artist Karl Adolph Donndorf was a German born artist know for his large realistic sculptures. He had served as an artist apprentice to further his education on sculpture (Wiki).
I look at where Union Square started then progressed to and then what it turned into in the late 1960’s, 70’s and 80’s and what it is today coming back to where it was before and it gives me faith in how a City keeps morphing. It has its ups and downs over time but then keeps progressing. It improves and neighborhoods find new purpose.
How I have seen this neighborhood change from the 1980’s to today is a gap as large as the Atlantic Ocean. The twenty year old’s today can not imagine what I saw in this park when I was twenty. It is night and day. This shows the resilience of Manhattan and of New York City and how with each year it reinvents itself. I can only imagine the neighborhood in 2030 and what we will see then.
It will be fun to find out.
The other blogs on the Union Square neighborhood:
Day Three Hundred and Thirteen: Walking the Borders of Union Square:
I finally got into Union Square and at a nice time of the year. The park was packed with people sunning themselves, reading and enjoying the sunshine. The Farmers Market was in full swing and offered so many wonderful things for sale.
What a beautiful day to start the walk in Union Square Park
I was able to tour the neighborhood twice in the two day period over Father’s Day Weekend once at twilight just as the sun was setting and the lights were coming on at the cafes and restaurants and then the next morning after breakfast on a clear and sunny day. The buildings took on two different personalities at different times of the day.
The first part of the walk was revisiting lower Fifth Avenue from West 20th to West 14th Streets. Again which I had just covered for my blogs on the Lower Flatiron District. Just after the Civil War to WWI, the was the Midtown Manhattan of that era with the banking and shopping districts where you still see these traces in the beauty of the buildings. From Beaux-Arts to Neo-Classical, these former headquarters buildings were meant to impress. I started my tour passing the same Fifth Avenue buildings that share the border with the Lower Flatiron District.
I passed 156 Fifth Avenue as I walked this part of the neighborhood again and admired it for its detailed stonework carving and unusual styled roof. The Presbyterian Building was built in 1893 and was designed by architect James B. Baker and was designed in the French Gothic style. It was to be used by the Presbyterian Church as their base for domestic and foreign missions and used as office space. The Panic of 1893 changed that, and they had to lease the space out (Daytonian in Manhattan).
I then took the long walk down Fifth Avenue and all the architectural treasures it contains. This was once the core of the old ‘Midtown Manhattan’ after the Civil War and the City started its march uptown.
119 Fifth Avenue at the corner of East 19th Street in the Flatiron District neighborhood of Manhattan, New York City was built in 1905-06 and was designed by John H. Duncan in the neo-Renaissance style. It was built to be an annex to the Lord & Taylor department store buildings which took up most of the square block between Broadway and Fifth Avenue and East 19th and 20th Streets, being connected by bridge to two of them. After Lord & Taylor moved uptown in 1914, the building had multiple uses (Wiki).
The details of 119 Fifth Avenue
The details of 119 Fifth Avenue
One of the most impressive buildings in the neighborhood is the old Arnold Constable Store building that stretches from its Broadway entrance down the entire block on 18th Street to its Fifth Avenue entrance.
115 Fifth Avenue-Arnold Constable Department Store
This seven-story department store building was designed by architect Griffith Thomas in 1868 for the prominent dry-goods company of Arnold Constable & Company. ‘The Palace of Trade’ as it became known as, is located stretches between Broadway and Fifth Avenue. The stunning Second Empire building is faced in marble, brick, and cast-iron, features stacked arch orders and a prominent, two-story, pavilioned mansard roof. Arnold Constable & Co. was founded by Aaron Arnold, who opened a small dry goods store in the city in 1825 (Buildings of New England).
As the business prospered he moved into larger quarters numerous times. In 1842, James Constable, an employee, married Arnold’s daughter Henrietta and was subsequently made a partner. From this, the company was renamed Arnold Constable & Co. In its heyday, Arnold Constable & Co. was the largest dealer to the elite in New York City, supplying the latest fashions to a clientele that included the leading families in the city (Buildings of New England).
The building had an interesting history. The building was designed by architect Louis Korn and was designed in the Beaux-Arts design. It was completed in 1896 and it was named after Edwards Pierrepont, whose mansion had stood on the site before the construction of the building. When it opened the building was popular small publishing and mercantile companies (Dayonianinmanhattan.com).
The 103 Fifth Avenue details
103 Fifth Avenue embellishments
In between the buildings there was plaque to Levi Parsons Morton, the former Governor of New York State and the Vice-President of the United States under President Benjamin Harrison. This is where his home was located.
The plaque of the former Vice-President’s home on Fifth Avenue.
Vice-President and former New York Governor Levi Parsons Morton
The B. Shackman & Company sign was for the former B. Shackman & Company novelty and toy store that was located here until the 1970’s. The store once sold all sorts of novelties and gifts (Ephemeral New York.com/Consumer Grouch).
This beautiful office building was designed by architect Louis Korn for businessmen Henry and Samuel Korn in 1896. The office building currently houses small companies (Wiki).
The details of women looking down at us on the street at 91 Fifth Avenue
The lion details on 91 Fifth Avenue.
The last building on this part of Fifth Avenue was under an extensive renovation and I was not able to get the pictures that I wanted but still you could see the details in the building around the renovations.
Looking up Fifth Avenue from 16th Street
The Kensington Building was designed by architect Samuel Sass in the Beaux-Arts design and completed in 1906. Some of the first tenants of the building was the Milton Bradley company. The building was converted into a residential building in 1996 and were designed by architect Joseph Pell Lombardi (Landmark Branding LLC).
This part of Fifth Avenue has kept its character all these years and now that these buildings are back in vogue because of their history and design detail, they are being refitted for modern times. These were once the headquarters of companies that are now long gone but are housing the new future companies leading us into the 21st Century.
Looking up Fifth Avenue from 15th Street and the core of the Lower Flatiron District.
West 14th Street is a Hodge podge of building types and in various conditions. COVID really hit 14th Street businesses hard and between the pandemic, urban renewal of the neighborhood and changing tastes of building types, there is only a few buildings left from the era when this was a major shopping street at the turn of the last century. This was before everything moved up to the 23rd Street and Sixth Avenue area.
Much of the block between Fifth and Sixth Avenue is in the process of being knocked down, renovated or both. Still there are some architectural gems still left on the street.
On the corner of Fifth Avenue and West 14th Street is 80 Fifth Avenue.
80 Fifth Avenue is an elaborately-detailed Renaissance Revival style office building that was constructed by the architecture firm of Buchman and Fox. This building was constructed in 1908 to be used as manufacturing and office space (Kates, Ariel. Off the Grid).
Seeing better detail work on the building from the West 14th Street view.
This beautiful building’s lower and upper levels feature decorative floral and geometric ornamentation, elaborate cornices, and angled bay windows on the third floor. Ornamented pilasters are found at either side of these windows, with slightly more austere middle floors and in its arched windows and elaborate ornamentation at the top story (Kates, Ariel. Off the Grid).
The beautiful detail work on 80 Fifth Avenue.
The building’s history has a long past of companies that have worked in these offices but the most prominent had been the creation of the gay organization, The National Gay Task Force. Among the Task Force’s accomplishments during the time it was located at 80 Fifth Avenue included getting the American Psychiatric Association to end its classification of homosexuality as a mental illness; getting the federal government to end its ban on employing gay or lesbian people in any federal agencies (Kates, Ariel. Off the Grid).
When I turned to the corner and walked down East 14th Street, I know seeing developers attempt to rid Union Square of its once seedy past. As I pass the park itself, I still remember the days when this was a major drug haven, a major methadone clinic was located here and sensible people stayed far away from Union Square Park. It took Danny Meyers and the creation of Union Square Cafe in 1985 at 101 East 19th Street and then the closing of the methadone clinic to change all that. The popularity of the Farmers Market and the renovation of the park in the late 1980’s changed the complexity of the neighborhood.
The original Union Square Cafe at 21 East 16th Street
My father and I on Father’s Day at the original Union Square Cafe for lunch in early 2000’s
There were also a series of buildings around the square that were knocked down and new buildings built in their place most notably the old S. Klein on the Square building replaced by a new office building, a branch of NYU opening on the southern end of the park and the Zeckendorf Towers buildings at One Union Square changed the who complexity of Union Square into a desirable neighborhood. In the 21st Century, it is now becoming a trendy neighborhood catering to the tech industry.
As I crossed Fifth Avenue to West 14th Street towards Union Square I remembered that this was the most southern part of the old Ladies Shopping District before the Civil War. It had been the theater district as well with the Academy of Music closer to Irving Street. After the Civil War, the shopping and theater district moved uptown towards 23rd Street, then to 34th Street and then ending at 42nd Street.
Between Fifth Avenue and Broadway along the southern border of Union Square, there is not much left of that shopping district. Many of the older buildings had been knocked down in the early 1900’s for new stores and since then much of the non-landmarked buildings were again knocked down in the early 1980’s to improve the district. S. Klein stood empty from 1975, when it closed for business to 1983 when it finally was knocked down for the Zeckendorf Towers and that changed the district forever (Wiki).
Still when I walked from Fifth Avenue to Union Square there was one building that stood out amongst all the new late 20th buildings on 14th Street and that was 22-26 East 14th Street.
This impressive building at 22-26 East 14th Street built along the former Ladies Shopping Mile was once meant to impress. This was once the home for Baumann Brothers Furniture & Rugs
The building was designed by architects David and Jon Jardine for successful textile merchant James McCreery in 1881. The building was designed in the Neo-Grec and Neo-Classical design and until 1897 was the home for Baumann Brothers Furniture and Carpet store. It then passed to Woolworth’s and the broken up for other retailers. It is now home to Footlocker but you can still see the beauty in this building with its elaborate embellishments (DaytonianinManhattan.com)
You really have to stop and look at its Neo-Classical details to really appreciate this building
The intricate details of the McCreery Building
The floral details in the middle of the building
I got a chance to walk around Union Square once I finished my tours of Fifth Avenue and East 14th Street. It was a beautiful sunny day and people were outside enjoying the sun and shade in the park. The Farmers Market was going on which made it even busier. By the subway station, there were guys hustling to play chess. A typical day in Union Square Park. Thirty years ago just like Bryant Park or Madison Square Park, sensible people stayed away from these squares of green with the garbage and graffiti and drug dealing. How a City transforms itself over a period of time is confounding. From the ashes of COVID, another New York City is rising.
What impresses me the most about the park is that the crazy protestors never knocked our statues down. Inside Union Square are three very prominent and very famous statues of George Washington, Abraham Lincoln and General Lafayette.
We are lucky that our statues were not knocked down like other cities in 2020. This impressive statue of General Washington sits at the entrance of Union Square.
This impressive statue of George Washington was designed by sculptor Henry Kirke Brown and was dedicated in 1856. The moment Brown depicts is that of Evacuation Day, November 25, 1783, when Washington reclaimed the city from the British. With outstretched hand, he signals to the troops in a gesture of benediction (NYCParks.org).
Artist Henry Kirke Brown was an American born artist who had studied with artists in Italy for his training. He is best known for his figurative historical statues. He also designed the statue of Abraham Lincoln in Union Square.
On the southern part of Union Square is the Climate Clock atop the NYU Dorms at 60 East 14th Street. The facade of the building makes quite the statement above Union Square if you stop to look at its details.
The new climate clock and NYU dorms replaced the once seedy shopping district the was Union Square at 60 East 14th Street
The Climate Clock melds art, science, technology, and grassroots organizing to get the world to #Actin Time. The project is centered on a simple tool: a clock that counts down the critical time window to reach zero emissions (our “Deadline”), while tracking our progress on key solution pathways (“Lifelines”) By showing us what we need to do by when, the Clock frames our critical mission — a rapid and just transition to a safe climate future — and puts it at the very forefront of our attention (Climateclock.world.com).
The building that single handedly changed Union Square (outside of Union Square Cafe) was the Zeckendorf Towers. This replaced the long closed S. Klein Department store that had closed in 1975 and lead to the seediness of the area. The store had been boarded up for years and led to the downfall of Union Square in the early 1980’s.
S. Klein Department Store on Union Square East was boarded up for years
When the store was torn down to make way for the Zeckendorf Towers, this completely changed the area. That and the renovation of Union Square in the late 1980’s and the creation of the Union Square Farmers Market made this a desirable area once again.
The Zeckendorf Towers at One Irving Place/One Union Square East
The success of the Zeckendorf Towers changed the complexity of the neighborhood for years to come replacing the S. Klein Department store. The residential building was designed by the architectural firm of Davis, Brody & Associates and was name for owner William Zeckendorf. The building was finished in 1987.
Tucked off in the corner of the park is the statue of General Lafayette. Why this important figure of the Revolutionary War is hidden is unfortunate.
The statue of General Marie-Joseph Paul Yves Roch Gilbert du Motier de La Fayette, Marquis de La Fayette
The larger-than-life-sized figure was sculpted by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, who also designed the Statue of Liberty (1886), another gift from the French government that figures prominently in New York Harbor. The granite pedestal designed by H.W. DeStuckle was donated by French citizens living in New York. (NYCParks.org).
Frederic Auguste Bartholdi was a French born artist best known for designing the Statue of Liberty. Bartholdi attended the Lycée Louis-le-Grand in Paris where he graduated in 1852. He then went on to study architecture at the Ecole nationale superieure des Beaux-Arts (Wiki).
As the sun started to set on this Sunday afternoon, I passed 4 Irving Place which the first couple of floors were under scaffolding. I admired the clocktower on the top of the building, the beautiful embellishments and just the elegance of the building. The building is home to Consolidated Edison (ConEd).
The was designed by architect Henry Janeway Hardenbergh and architectural firm of Warren and Wetmore in the Neo-Classical design. The first phase of the building was started in 1911 and both phases were finished by 1929. The original section of the building is in the picture with the wings of the building to both sides (Wiki).
I passed 4 Irving Place, the Con Ed Building, just as twilight hit the building and you could see the beauty in its shadows.
Its clock told the time of the early evening.
The next morning when I walked past it again, you could see the true beauty of its design.
I also noticed that the roof top held a more intricate design than I noticed the night before. Look up at its intricate details to admire its beauty. This is part of the originally designed building.
Once I turned onto Irving Place, the old core of its industrial past gave way to the bohemian village it would become and stay in the future. This was once ‘THE’ neighborhood to live in and has stayed that way since even through the rough times of Union Square.
The most impressive object you will see in the neighborhood is this bust of Washington Irving that sits outside the Washing Irving Campus on Irving Place.
Artist Friedrich Beer was a German born artist known for his works on busts of famous individuals.
The neighborhood goes from commercial to more residential as you get further up Irving Place and closer to Gramercy Park. The borders of Union Square overlap with Gramercy Park and the Flatiron District between East 18th and East 20th streets so I revisited buildings that J had seen before. If people went in a Time Machine to Manhattan from 100 years ago they would still see the same buildings but with totally different uses.
The Washington Irving house at 122 East 17th Street and Irving Place (Washington Irving never lived here)
The “Irving House” was built by Peter Voorhis between 1843 and 1844, along with the adjacent two houses at 45 and 47 Irving Place. The original tenants of 49 Irving Place (at that time referred to as 122 East 17th Street) were Charles Jackson Martin, an insurance executive, and his wife, who would reside there from 1844 until 1852. Henry and Ann E. Coggill would live in it in 1853, and in 1854 it would become the home of banker Thomas Phelps and his wife Elizabeth, who would remain until 1863 (Atlasobsucra.com).
The front of the house facing Irving Place
The first mention in print of Irving having lived in the house came in the Sunday Magazine Supplement of the New York Times on April 4, 1897. The article is a human interest story about Elsie de Wolfe and the means and methods she used to decorate “Irving’s house.” In 1905, de Wolfe would become known as the first professional interior decorator and it appears this article is an early attempt at publicity for her. As for the information about Irving, the article takes enormous liberties (actually, it flat-out makes things up), claiming that Irving had conceived of the house himself and was very particular about the architecture and design (Atlasobsucra.com).
The entrance to the house at 122 East 17th street
The plaque on the house dedicated to the writer created by artist Alexander Finta
In 1930, a restaurant called the Washington Irving Tea Room was operating in the basement of the building and in 1934 a plaque sculpted by Rodin-student Alexander Finta was put up on the north facade that would cement the story in the public consciousness. Today, the surrounding area remains covered in references to Irving, from the large art installations in the nearby W Hotel to the Headless Horseman pub on 15th Street(Atlasobsucra.com).
Artist Alexander Finta was a Hungarian born artist who moved to the United States in 1923. He had studied mechanical engineering in his own country and had studied with Auguste Rodin. His is known for his elaborate busts. He spent the remainder of his career at 20th Century Fox Studios (Wiki)
All along the Irving Place corridor, the street is lined with interesting and historical buildings many of them turned into restaurants or inns. There are many historic plaques in this neighborhood and some creative architecture. The first building that caught my eye was 53 Irving Place, which is the home of Pierre Loti Wine Bar.
The home of Pierre Lotte Mediterranean Restaurant at 53-55 Irving Place was the home of O Henry
When I looked at the side of the building near the entrance, I was this historic plaque that said that this was the home of author William Sidney Porter (O. Henry). The author lived here from 1903-1907 and wrote the “Gift of the Magi” while living here and eating at Pete’s Tavern across the street (Wiki).
The historic plaque for author O Henry at 53-55 Irving Place
Down the road at is Pete’s Tavern, one of the most famous and the oldest literary restaurants in the City. The restaurant was founded in 1864 as the Portman Hotel and then in 1899 when changed to Healy’s Cafe when it was run by John and Tom Healy. Then in 1899, it was bought by Peter D’ Belles and renamed Pete’s Tavern. The restaurant was a ‘Speakeasy’ during prohibition and the dining rooms have not changed much over the last over hundred years (Pete’s Tavern website).
Pete’s Tavern was busy on the night of my first part of the walk.
The painting outside of Pete’s Tavern of the Speakeasy years
Pete’s Tavern was busy both nights that I passed it. I had not eaten there in over a decade when I had a holiday dinner there with friends by I remember the food and service being excellent. The restaurant is really special during the Christmas holiday season from what I can remember.
My friends Barbara, Lillian and I after dinner at Pete’s Tavern in the early 2000’s
Another restaurant I went to before my friend, Barbara, moved to Florida was a Friend of the a Farmer at 77 Irving Place, a farm to table concept before it became very popular. I remember the food being wonderful but the place being a bit noisy. She lived on the fringe of Gramercy Park and had passed this restaurant many times and had wanted to try it that evening.
Another great restaurant is Friend of a Farmer at 77 Irving Place
Across the street, I passed this apartment building at 76 Irving Place. I loved the outside embellishments on the building and the friendly looks you get from the statuary. The building was built in 1897 by architect Lyndon P. Smith (Corcoran Group).
You have to look up to admire the details of 76 Irving Place
The entrance to 76 Irving Place with its tiny angels
This woman guards the front of Irving Place like guard
This woman greets you at 76 Irving Place
The classic architecture of the block especially as you get closer to Gramercy Park changes from smaller apartment buildings to brownstones lining the parks southern border. Gramercy Park offers some of the most interesting architecture. This ivy covered building that impressed me so much as the sun was going down is at 80 Irving Place.
This building at East 19th street and Irving Place is typical for the buildings that once lined this neighborhood
The house was built as a single family mansion between 1853 and 1854 and had been the home of the prominent Wood family and then to actress Agnes Ethel Tracy. Since 1987, it has been a single family home again. What I thought was interesting was that the house was used in the movie “Working Girl” as Sigourney Weavers character’s home (DaytoninManhattan.com).
Look up at the beautiful details of 81 Irving Place
81 Irving Place is one of the most beautiful apartment complexes in the city that I have come across. The embellishments along the building are some of most detailed and elegant I have seen. This prewar Co-Op was built in 1929.
The details along the windows
The embellishments of the building
The dragons and demons that adorn the windows
The embellishments of the building
The unusual creatures at the doorways
The embellishments of the building
The creatures guarding the windows
The embellishments of the building
The rooftop gardens are protected by these griffins
The building has a whimsical almost storybook imagine of creatures protecting their home.
Where I want my future home to be when I retire to the City and can afford it is 19 Gramercy Park South. I have always loved this building since I fell in love with the neighborhood over thirty years ago. I always wanted a home with a key to Gramercy Park. The building has that classic turn of the last century look about it and it has always been my dream to live here when I retire. I need to hurry and win the lottery.
My dream home would be at 19 Gramercy Park South with a key to the park
I had thought this was a apartment building but it is actually a single family mansion with 37 rooms. It was built in 1845 and when the mansion was extended by Stamford White in 1887 was the home of socially prominent Stuyvesant-Fish family. It is currently back to being a single family mansion (Wiki).
As I turned the corner at East 20th Street I never tire of peering into Gramercy Park and keep wishing for that key. Gramercy Park is still one of the most beautiful and fantastical parks in New York City. It has once been part of the Stuyvesant estate and got its name from Gramercy Farm that once stood here. It is the only piece of the old Rose Hill Farm still in existence (Wiki).
I love the beauty of this park. There is an English feel to this park that reminds me of London and some of the neighborhoods that I visited it there. I have never been inside the park but it would be fun to walk around. I found out from researching for another blog on the Rose Hill neighborhood is that Gramercy Park is the corner and last surviving parcel of the old Rose Hill Farm.
East 20th street across from the park has some of the most interesting brownstones in Manhattan. They add to the historic value of the neighborhood. When you turn the corner of Gramercy Park off Irving Place, you will see the classic architecture that surrounds the park. It is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in Manhattan.
The beauty of East 20th Street across from Gramercy Park
Right across the street from the park sits one of the best known brownstones in the neighborhood housing the “Players Club”. This club was made famous by the movie “Manhattan Murder Mystery’” for the wine tasting scene.
The movie “Manhattan Murder Mystery” by director Woody Allen was shot in the neighborhood
The mansion was built in 1847 and was the home of Valentine G. Hall. The building was bought by actor Edwin Booth, the older brother of John Wilkes Booth who assassinated President Lincoln. He kept a suite for himself at the top of the home and then turned the rest of the building into the “Players Club” in 1888. The club now serves as a social club with artifacts of the theater arts on display and a private restaurant (Wiki).
Artist Robert Henri was an American born artist. He studied at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts Philadelphia and at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris. He is best known for his works in the Impressionism movement (Wiki).
As I crossed Park Avenue South, I entered the familiar neighborhood of the Flatiron District meeting the bottom of the Rose Hill neighborhood. This is when Manhattan neighborhood borders get confusing. Since the Union Square technically ends at East 18th Street but that would leave two blocks open without being in a specific neighborhood, I stretched it to East 20th Street. This again borders the Flatiron and Rose Hill/NoMAD section of the City. I figure that I will let the realtors figure this one out.
When you cross the border at Park Avenue South, I admired the same buildings I had seen several month earlier when I walked these streets and avenues just as Fall semester at NYU began.
The building at 250 Park Avenue South houses the restaurant Barbounia in the base of the building.
42 East 20th Street was designed by the architectural firm of Neville & Bagge and was built in 1890 in the Beaux-Arts design. N.S. Meyer was a military company selling Army and Navy equipment since 1868 (14to42.net).
The beauty of the NS Meyer Inc. building
Next to that is another beautiful building the at 36 East 20th Street. This commercial building was built in 1901 with Beaux-Arts details on it.
The building is a commercial building that was built in 1901.
You can see the beauty of all the details
The details on the top of 36 East 20th Street
Right down the street at 28 East 20th Street is the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace Historic Site Museum. It had been closed for so long after COVID I never thought it would open any time soon. It did finally open late last year and I thought this was one of the most interesting of the historical homes in the City. This one had been completely recreated by the family and then furnished with family heirlooms from the original house. That makes for an interesting museum.
At 28 East 20th Street is the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace Historic Site, which is an exact replication of the original home that President Theodore Roosevelt was born and raised. The house that originally stood on the site was built in 1848 and was bought by the Roosevelts in 1854. Theodore Roosevelt was born there on October 27, 1858, and lived in the house with his family until 1872, when the neighborhood began to become more commercial and the family moved uptown (Wiki).
The Roosevelt House Living Room
The original building was demolished in 1916 to make way for retail space, but upon the death of Roosevelt in 1919 the lot was purchased and the house rebuilt by the Women’s Roosevelt Memorial Association, which eventually merged with the Roosevelt Memorial Association in 1953 to form the Theodore Roosevelt Association.
Theodore Roosevelt’s bedroom
Noted female American architect Theodate Pope Riddle was given the task of reconstructing a replica of the house, as well as designing the museum, situated next door, that serves to complete the site (Wiki).
The Parlor of the house
You have to take time when the museum is open to take the independent tour. When you walk around the house you will swear that the family had just left the room to grab something. It is well worth the trip to see how the family lived before they moved uptown.
The next building on the block that is unique is 7 East 20th Street, the old Holtz Building.
The old Holtz Building at 7 East 20th Street
The ornate, Beaux-Arts edifice was erected in 1907 as a commercial building with the Holtz Restaurant located on the lower two floors. In the early 1900’s Phillip Braender commissioned architect William C. Frohne to design a 12-story building, with the lower two floors being specifically customized and designed to house for the Holtz Restaurant. The Holtz was a high-end establishment catering to the upper echelon of the population and converted to condo lofts in 1987 (Corcoran Group.org/Streeteasy.org)
After I finished the walk down East 20th Street, I walked back down Fifth Avenue to Union Square Park in the mid afternoon to see what was going on. There was a smaller version of the bigger weekend Farmers Market.
The Farmers Market in Union Square is one of the biggest and most popular Farmers Markets in the City
The Union Square Greenmarket in full swing on a sunny afternoon
After walking through all the stands and admiring the wares and the baked goods, I wanted to cool down with a walk through the park. I never really noticed all the beautiful statuary in the park before. There is a lot of interesting and famous works in the park.
The original layout of the park on a gold map
The golden plaque on the sidewalk outside Union Square Park with the original layout of the park
People relaxing in the park
New Yorkers relaxing on a warm sunny afternoon in Union Square Park
When I walked around the park, I noticed more and more artwork and statuary around the park. This flagpole is located in the middle of the park. You really have to walk around the base to appreciate the details the artist created on this.
The flagpole in the middle of the park
The Independence Flagstaff in Union Square Park
Although this flagstaff commemorates the 150th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, it is also known as the Charles F. Murphy Memorial Flagpole. The intricate bas-reliefs and plaques were completed in 1926 by sculptor Anthony De Francisci and feature a procession of allegorical figures representing democracy and tyranny, the text of the Declaration of Independence, and emblems from the original 13 colonies. The enormous flagpole, said to be one of the largest in New York State, is capped with a gilded sunburst (NYCParks.org).
Artist Anthony De Francisci is an Italian born artist whose family were stone carvers by trade. He studied at Copper Union and the National Academy of Design when he moved to New York City. He is known for his known for his work as a sculptor and his design of American currency.
The magnificent details in the flagpole
The details are amazing on the flagstaff
The flagpole was erected to commentate the 150th Anniversary of the Declaration of Independence
Located at the northern end of the Union Square is the prominent statue of President Lincoln. This statue stands and overlooks the lawn of the park.
This impressive statue of Abraham Lincoln was designed by sculptor Henry Kirke Brown and was dedicated in 1870. In his statue of Lincoln, cast in 1868, and dedicated September 16, 1870, he combines a classically styled pose with a perceptive naturalism, uniting realistic detail with an idealistic stance (NYCParks.org).
Artist Henry Kirke Brown was an American born artist who had studied with artists in Italy for his training. He is best known for his figurative historical statues. He also designed the statue of George Washington in Union Square.
There is a lot more to Union Square than just the park. There is interesting architecture. Historic statuary, wonderful restaurants and great selection of stores.
The amazing part about Union Square is the transformation of the area in the past thirty years from a park that everyone avoided to one that people could not live without. From the days of being home to one of the biggest methadone clinics in the City to be home to Union Square Cafe which transformed the park, Union Square has become the gateway to Uptown.
Finishing up the walk with some relaxation in the park
The Northern end of Union Square Park
The neighborhood has transformed itself with hip cafes, expensive lofts and a Farmers Market that is the benchmark that all others hold themselves. Just watching people sit and relax in the park reminds me of how this area had changed. You have to walk the streets to see the influences of the past and the present and how it has it has morphed to the neighborhood that it has become.
Union Square Park on that sunny warm June afternoon
As I explored the borders of the park, I came across a statue of a mother and child. I never noticed that this was an old water fountain for the park. It is always blocked off by vendors during either the Farmers or Arts Markets. With nothing in front of it, I could finally see it in its full form.
Consisting of a bronze statuary group atop a granite stepped pedestal, it was crafted by German sculptor Karl Adolph Donndorf and donated by philanthropist Daniel Willis James to promote public health as well as the virtue of charity (NYCParks.org).
Artist Karl Adolph Donndorf was a German born artist know for his large realistic sculptures. He had served as an artist apprentice to further his education on sculpture (Wiki).
Just looking at old pictures online of Union Square in the 1970’s and 80’s shows me the power and resilience of Manhattan. It just goes to show you how a City can reinvent itself even in the worst of times and keep morphing!
The other blogs on the Union Square neighborhood:
Day Three Hundred and Thirteen: Walking the Borders of Union Square:
mywalkinmanhattan 