It took a couple of days to give the neighborhood a long walk, but I covered all the space in three days. This is such an interesting neighborhood and so many people took an interest in what I was doing over in the time I spent here.
It was hot and humid my first day in Manhattan Valley at 81 degrees. I got up to neighborhood in the later afternoon after a long day wrapping spoons at the Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen. It may not sound that exciting, but it is one of the most important stations at the kitchen. You need a constant supply of silverware to help feed everyone.
I started the walk at the E subway station on the edge of Central Park. On a hot day, the park was packed with people getting a tan, fishing in the Meer, walking their dogs or just hanging out. This part of the summer is nice because the tourists are walking around, and it is fun to watch them make a fuss at everything.
Harlem Meer in northern Central Park
https://www.centralparknyc.org/locations/harlem-meer
The foliage changing on the Harlem Meer in the Fall of 2024
The first couple of blocks along 109th and 108th Streets are filled with prewar apartment buildings, schools and small playgrounds and many small brownstones. A lot of the buildings in this area are being sandblasted back to their former glory. Closer to the parks, the buildings have an elegant feel with their carved marble fronts and small gardens and potted plants decorated them. The sign of a doorman says that this area is getting more expensive.
The Harlem Meer in the Summer of 2024
The brownstones along West 109th Street by Riverside Park
On 107th Street, I saw many beautiful buildings in various stages of renovation on all the blocks as this are is beginning to become part of the Upper West Side fabric. Many of the small brownstones along Manhattan Avenue had been swept in their fronts and their plants were in full bloom. Again, I love the block between 106th and 107th Streets. Tucked in between all those little mansions and brownstones is The Nicholas Roerich Museum at 319 West 107th Street
The tiny Nicholas Roerich Museum at 319 West 107th Street is packed with interesting art
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/visitingamuseum.com/2002
The Museum was founded in 1949 to house a permanent collection of over two hundred paintings by the Russian-born artist, poet, philosopher and humanitarian, Nicholas Roerich. The museum also houses a library of books and maintains an archive and a collection of artifacts relating to the areas of Roerich’s interests (Museum guide).
This small museum in the Upper West Side neighborhood of Manhattanville is easy to miss. It is in a small brownstone on West 107th Street right near Riverside Drive. You can see the plaque for the museum to the right of the building and there is a side door to get in. The admission is free but they do ask for a donation if you can do it.
The gallery on the second floor
The museum is a specialty collection of the works of artist Nicholas Roerich. They are mostly landscapes and religious themed that cover three floors of the museum.
The is a beauty to all his works especially the ones concentrated in the Himalayas with their colorful and spiritual themes.
The artist’s portrait of his mother on the third floor
It takes about an hour to an hour and a half to see all the floors. A nice touch they had in the afternoon that I was there was a piano player whom you could hear play throughout the brownstone. When you go, it will be a pleasant afternoon where you are not fighting the crowds of the larger museums.
When you reach Riverside Drive, there is a beautiful line of old marble mansions that line the drive from 106th to 105th Streets. These were built at a time when money was no object and living along the park was a sophisticated choice. These homes are all being renovated, and one wonders if they are going to become private homes again. When rounding 107th Street along Riverside Park, take time to look at these homes from the park side and you can imagine the view they have from the front of these homes.
The secret garden between brownstones on West 109th Street behind a gate
I walked all around Riverside Park in this part of the neighborhood, and it is just beautiful when the trees are in full form. The shade trees and paths offer refuge from the hot sun, and it is fun to watch the neighborhood kids play in the playgrounds with their parents and nannies. It is nice to see a group of kids enjoying nature and not glued to a cell phone. From the park, these are the most gorgeous views of the Hudson River with the cliffs in New Jersey in the background and a constant stream of boats in the river passing you by.
Riverside Park is just breathtaking
I made a lunch stop at SheShe Pizzeria at 961 Columbus Avenue at 107th Street (See my TripAdvisor review and my blog DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@ WordPress.com). This small pizzeria has delicious food with the most reasonable lunch specials. Their lunch menu has ten lunch specials for $5.00 including a personal pizza with pepperoni that I had with a Coke for lunch.
SheShe Pizza at 961 Columbus Avenue (closed in 2025)
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
This small ten-inch pizza was freshly cooked for me by the owner of the restaurant. It was loaded with pepperoni and cheese and when it came out of the oven was cut into four generous slices. The sauce is flavorful, and the slices are all stringy and gooey with the melted cheese. It is the perfect lunch/dinner if you have a good appetite. Their cheese pizza was delicious as well and was the perfect lunch and I liked their fair prices.
Their spaghetti and meatballs were terrific too that I had another day I was in the neighborhood for lunch. The service is very warm and welcoming, and he remembered me from a few days earlier.
The Spaghetti and Meatball special at SheShe Pizza was amazing! (Old owners)
To work off all this good food, stop back at the ‘Mobilization for Change’ Community Garden across the street at the corner of 107th Street and Columbus Avenue at 955 Columbus Avenue and stroll through the gardens again. The gardens are in full bloom, and it is a nice place to just walk around the paths and look at the progress of the individual vegetable gardens. The tomatoes are really coming in.
Mobilization for Change Community Garden at 955 Columbus Avenue
The Garden in early Fall of 2024
A full view of the garden in the Fall of 2024
I returned to the garden in the Spring in 2026. The gardens were being prepared for the warmer months. Many new plantings were on full display.
Mobilization Garden
Mobilization Garden
The Mobilization Garden in the Spring of 2026
329 West 108th Street
https://streeteasy.com/building/329-west-108-street-new_york/phd
The Cloisters at 329 West 108th St. was constructed in 1899. Originally built as two separate townhouses, these grand mansions were combined in 1931 and converted to a coop in 1984 (Streeteasy.com). This building has the most beautiful details to it around the doorways and windows.
329 West 108th Street embellishments on the building
The elaborate embellishments at 329 West 108th Street
The townhouses along West 107th Street by Riverside Park
The townhouses along West 107th Street by Riverside Park
One the most beautiful buildings in the neighborhood along Central Park West and 106th Street is 455 Central Park West, the old New York Cancer Hospital. Years ago, when I was walking around the neighborhood, this was an abandoned building that was all boarded up and graffiti ladened. Now it is part of an exclusive apartment complex. The hospital part of the apartment building was built in 1887 with additions in 1889 and 1890. It was designed by architect Charles Coolidge Haight in the French Chateaux style with English Gothic trim (City Realty).
The old New York Cancer Hospital at 455 Central Park West
https://streeteasy.com/building/455-central-park-west-new_york
To live in the Victorian section of the building must cost now millions of dollars. The whole building was renovated back to life and is one of the most unusual pieces of architecture in the neighborhood with an incorporated tower behind it. It is also rumored to be haunted.
455 Central Park West the old New York Cancer Hospital is now luxury condos
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_Cancer_Hospital
I noticed this chair on the sidewalk when I walked down West 106th Street outside someone’s brownstone. I thought this was pretty unique.
This was outside one of the local smoke shops
The murals and street art really stood out on West 106th Street as I passed Broadway on my way back to Central Park.
This was on one of the trees just past Broadway
The row apartments that line West 105th Street are really beautiful in the fall
This face stared at me as I walked down West 105th Street towards Riverside Park
In between Columbus and Manhattan Avenues on 105th Street is the La Perla Community Garden at 76 West 105th Street. The garden was created around 1992 when a group of neighborhood citizens got together to clean out a garbage dump of a lot and turned it into a vibrant garden with paths leading through trees, flower and vegetable beds. There is even original graffiti art from one of the local artists all along the walls of the building that surround it.
La Perla Community Garden at 76 West 105th Street
The inside of the gardens in the Fall of 2024
The sign on the fence
https://www.facebook.com/laperlagarden
I talked with one of the creators of the garden, Carmen Ortiz, talked with me that afternoon. “It took about ten years to clean the lot out and that was constantly throwing out the garbage to the curb just to get all the debris out. We have worked so hard to create and maintain the garden and now a piece of it is being sold off.” Currently the middle part of the garden was owned by two couples, but the taxes are getting too high, and the neighborhood is changing so fast, that it was cost effective to sell it. Now the left side of the garden will be a new townhouse while the rest of the garden will remain.
The gardens in the Fall of 2024 after Halloween
“It’s sad because we do so much for the community here,” Ms. Ortiz added. “We will be having a flea market this weekend and have Jazz Concerts here. During the holidays, we have events for the neighborhood children. You can see by the plantings; everyone has a plot here.” Several raised beds contain various vegetable plantings. I just hope that building this new townhouse does not affect the garden to the point where nothing can grow there. It’s a sad commentary to the city when something that New Yorkers spent their time on to make better improved the neighborhood to the point that it was its own demise in the end.
What is left of the painting by the Bloomingdale Park
Along West 104th Street between Central Park West and Manhattan Avenue, you will see another set of Community Gardens which is interesting because the plot has a prewar apartment building right smack in the middle of it. The centerpiece of this garden is the Jesus Crawford Rose Garden which was just losing the last of its blooms when I visited it. This was named after the creator of the garden.
Jesus Crawford Rose Community Garden at West 104th Street is now the West 104th Street Gardens
Just like ‘Le Perla’ and ‘Mobilization for Change’ gardens, this garden has added much needed green space to the neighborhood with trees and raised vegetable gardens that add that sense of neighborhood to the street. At the height of the summer, it is nice to see all of these gardens in full bloom and the fresh vegetables on their way.
Walking through the Douglass Houses and the projects in general are always amusing to me. I never know the reception I will get. For the most part, I crisscrossed through the walkways of the projects from 104th to 100th Street. I visited all the playgrounds and community areas to sit and people just ignored me but looked out of the corner of their eyes to see what I was doing.
Douglass Houses at 825 Columbus Avenue
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_Douglass_Houses
https://www.facebook.com/groups/104654293240
The Douglas Houses from a distance.
I stopped by King Columbus Gourmet Deli 900 Columbus Avenue for a quick lunch when I was walking the neighborhood in 2025. This deli is right across from the Douglas Houses and I find that a lot of these deli’s near the project are the best. I was starved and got a Bacon, Egg and Cheese on a hero and it was excellent.
King Columbus Gourmet at 900 Columbus Avenue
https://www.seamless.com/menu/king-columbus-gourmet-deli-900-columbus-ave-new-york/1124693
My review on TripAdvisor:
I took my sandwich down the street to a park and ate my breakfast sandwich. On a cool March afternoon hit the spot. With the price of eggs in 2025, this is the first time I had eaten an omelet in almost a month so it tasted good.
My Bacon, Egg and Cheese sandwich
This sandwich is delicious
On my way to the park to relax and eat I passed 119-121 West 104th Street and I had never noticed how interesting this brownstone across the street from the Projects.
119-121 West 104th Street
https://www.zillow.com/b/119-w-104th-st-new-york-ny-2JHS/
The beauty of 119 West 104th Street is right across the street from the Douglas Houses
The brownstone was built in the early 20th Century and it is now a condo. I thought the stonework was very unusual. I saw this again on West 103th Street where I saw the same design.
At the corner of West 104th Street and Amsterdam Avenue was the Youth Hostel.
HI New York Hostel at West 104th Street
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Association_Residence_Nursing_Home
https://www.hiusa.org/find-hostels/new-york/new-york-891-amsterdam-ave
The HI New York Hostel is a different type of hotel stay for student travels. The building was built between 1881-1883 and was designed by Richard Morris Hunt in the Victorian Gothic style. The building was originally built as a nursing home and has since become a hostel (Wiki).
I watched some kids playing on the swings and some people attending the community gardens that they had planted but for the most part I saw a lot of socialization along Columbus Avenue. Many groups of men set up tables and while blasting Spanish music played cards and domino’s and watched the neighborhood go by. I am sure that for all the game playing these guys know perfectly well what is going on around them and the surrounding buildings. That struck me as watching everything.
The West 104th Street Garden in the Fall of 2024
This interesting mural was on the back of the local elementary school. I think this was done by the students
When I got back to Central Park West, you can see that Central Park was not always flat. The rock formations from the days of the Ice Age.
The rock formations by West 104th Street
Central Park rock formations at West 104th Street
I took a stroll through Central Park and the North Woods section of the park. The irony is that I have walked through Central Park since I was four and I never walked through the North Woods. It was a beautiful stroll through the woods.
Walking through Central Park by West 104th Street leading to the North Woods
Walking through the North Woods in Central Park
Walking through the North Woods in the Fall of 2024
I walked across the park to go the Met on the East Side and I stopped by the reservoir to watch the sunset. It was an amazing view of the sun setting over Manhattan and the crowds to watch it was really large.
The sun setting over the Central Park Reservoir
The amazing views of the sun setting over Central Park
I walked through the park just at dusk and was surprised at the crowds inside the park both on the West Side and the East Side. It was around 77 degrees and people were enjoying playing the parks and playgrounds. I thought this was interesting because most people stay out of the park at dusk. Watching little kids screaming in the playgrounds was encouraging that things are changing for the better in the City.
I walked the streets from West 103rd to West 100th Street and admired the architecture especially closer to Riverside Avenue near Riverside Park. Some of the brownstones and apartment buildings are so interesting.
At 315 West 103rd Street is a similar building to the one at West 104th Street. The building was built in 1881 and is now landmarked.
The entrance at 315 West 103rd Street
https://streeteasy.com/building/315-west-103-street-new_york
https://www.landmarkwest.org/building/315-west-103rd-street/
315 West 103rd Street
The brownstone was built in 1920 and the detail work on the building is unique.
At 246 West 103rd Street was the childhood home of Humphrey Bogart. I thought this was interesting to know that the actor grew up here. The building was built in 1917
246 West 103rd Street
https://www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/246-W-103rd-St_New-York_NY_10025_M37368-50803
The detail work on 246 West 103rd Street
Historic marker for Humphrey Bogart home
Humphrey Bogart
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humphrey_Bogart
Humphrey Bogart was an well known and well respected American actor. He was descended from the Mayflower Society.
435 Central Park West
https://www.apartments.com/435-central-park-w-new-york-ny/44mq3ek/
As I was walking down West 103 Street, I passed 435 Central Park West and saw the faces staring back at me. The building was built around 1930.
I turned the corner and I saw the details at 312 West 102nd Street and the details under the windows. The building was built in 1905.
312 West 102nd Street
https://streeteasy.com/building/312-west-102-street-new_york
https://samanthareiss.com/properties/312-w-102nd-st
It’s at 100th Street where Manhattan Valley joins the rest of the Upper West Side as new office and apartment buildings have been built along Columbus, Amsterdam and Broadway. This area is guarded by a police and fire station around the corner so there is action here all day long.
You can go to the bathroom either in Frederick Douglass Park near 104th Street or at the Whole Foods at 100th Street. Stick with Whole Foods as it is cleaner and cooler plus you can use the water fountain.
The Whole Foods at 808 Columbus Avenue and West 96th Street
https://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/upperwestside
When I was walking in between Riverside and West End Avenues, I came across a community bench designed by artist Linus Coraggio who lives on the block (website: LinusCoraggio@verison.net). It just so happened the artist was outside fixing his motorcycle and we got to talking about his work. He showed me the bench and all its detail work. He had lived in the area for many years and had watched it change from bad to better.
Artist Linus Coraggio
His current specialty is welded, crafted figurative and abstract sculpture and furniture. I even read online that Ringo Starr is one of his clients. He was showing the work he was doing on the brownstone he was living in, doing work around the railing and in the foyer of the building all the ceiling work. His attention to detail and to how the workflows is a sign that he takes his time with each piece. It is an interesting set of artworks with all sorts of bends and twists to the metal work.
Check out this YouTube Trailer on the artist
He even has a chair he created right in front of the building. It twists and turns and the metal work are extremely creative in that you can tell the detail and the amount of time to get the metal to work in this fashion. You almost don’t want to sit in it. He told me he currently has a show going on in the East Village and a studio up in Ellenville, NY. Just stop on this block alone to see his craftsmanship. It is beautiful.
The artwork of Linus Coraggio
The artwork of Linus Coraggio
The artwork of Linus Coraggio
On 99th Street just off Amsterdam Avenue, there is the Church St. Michael’s Parish at 225 West 99th Street, which has the nicest garden to sit in. It is a nice place to relax and just think. Tranquil is the word for it.
The Church of Saint Michael at 225 West 99th Street
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Michael%27s_Episcopal_Church_(Manhattan)
It is beautifully planted, and everything was in full bloom. It was nice to just stop and take a break here. Take a look at their postings as they have a lot of activities going on.
The beauty of their stained glass windows
The landscaping and the gardens on 99th Street
The beautiful flowers in the Spring
The gardens around the corner
A couple of mornings later, I came back to finish the bottom part of the neighborhood and walked 96th Street again to see how the neighborhood transitions. The streets between 96th and 98th Streets are filled with smaller marble brownstones and many attractive prewar apartments.
There are a lot of businesses transitioning along these streets as I see many of the older businesses now sitting empty with ‘For Rent’ signs telling the rents are changing in this part of the neighborhood as well. Soon they will be filled with the next wave of chain stores and glitzy restaurants.
This part of the neighborhood was easy to walk because the Central Park West Apartments and their playground stop the side streets between 98th to 99th Streets and the rest of the complex is gated off. My suggestion is do not try to walk through the complex because the signs are very blatant that they are watching you. You can see from the streets though there is a large parking lot and several well landscaped paths surrounding the buildings. I was just surprised they built these and the projects right next to one another.
Central Park West Towers have a lot of security
https://streeteasy.com/building/cpw-towers-392-central-park-west-new_york
I stopped at Felo Deli at 23 West 100th Street for some of their homemade empanadas ($1.25). They were so good I had to go back a second time for another which made the man behind the counter pretty happy. Try the pizza and chicken ones. They are generously filled and cooked perfectly. It is a good place to stop for a reasonable snack.
Felo’s Deli at 23 West 100 Street
https://www.seamless.com/menu/felo-deli-corp-23-w-100th-st-new-york/3172994
My review on TripAdvisor:
Felo Deli has some very reasonable food
The empanadas here are really good and make a great snack
My last part of the day before I walked across Central Park to start my trip to Coney Island for my ‘Q to Q subway trip’ from 96th Street on the East Side to Coney Island on Stillwell Avenue, I stopped back at SheShe Pizzeria at 961 Columbus Avenue, to try one more thing on the lunch special menu. This was one of the inspirations for my new blog “DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com’. For $5.00, these lunches are exceptional.
SheShe Pizza at 961 Columbus Avenue (Closed in 2025)
My review on TripAdvisor:
I tried the side order of ziti with meatballs, and it was more than a side order. You got a very generous portion of perfectly cooked ziti with about three fresh meatballs that were sliced on top and then put under the broiler. I could just about finish it. The meatballs had a nice garlicky taste to them, and the sauce was well spiced. It looked like the owner was happy to see me again. I will be back again for another personal pizza.
The Baked Ziti at SheShe Pizza was really good
The last thing I saw at the edge of the neighborhood was the beautiful and whimsical mural outside PS 163-The Albert Smith School at 163 West 97th Street. The student artists did a wonderful job on this mural “Bee Rock Steady”.
The school mural outside PS 163-The Albert Smith School: ‘Bee Rock Steady’
The whimsical painting on the school’s side
The painting ‘Bee Rock Steady’ artists who created it
As I finished my walk of Manhattan Valley, I really felt that neighborhood aspect of this community. For a section of a major city, this had a small-town friendly feel about it. The people here, no matter where they live want this to be the best community it can be, and I was impressed by all the free time the residents donate to make it that way.
Whether it was Carmen Ortiz and her partner in the garden, Bob, spending their time weeding beds to Linus Coraggio donating his creativity to building a bench for people to relax into the guys playing dominoes watching what everyone was doing, I could feel the sense of neighborhood here. There is always something new popping up in this neighborhood.
The residents here really care.
Please read my other Blogs on the neighborhood:
Day Seventy-Nine: Walking the Borders of Manhattan Valley/Bloomingdale:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/5631
Day Eighty-Three: Walking the Streets of Manhattan Valley/Bloomingdale:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/5977
Day Eighty-One: Walking the Avenues of Manhattan Valley/Bloomingdale:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/5822
Places to Eat:
Felo Deli
23 West 100 Street
New York, NY 10025
(212) 866-8195
Open: Sunday-Saturday 7:00am-11:15am
My review on TripAdvisor:
SheShe Pizza (Closed June 2025)
961 Columbus Avenue
New York, NY 10025
(212) 222-7201
sheshepizzatogo.com
Open: Sunday-Saturday 24 hours
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/diningonashoestringinnyc.wordpress.com/174
Places to visit:
Linus Coraggio Bench
West 100th Street Between Riverside Drive and West Side Drive
St. Michael’s Parish Church Garden
225 West 99th Street
New York, NY 10025
(212) 222-2700
http://www.saintmichaelschurch.org
My review on TripAdvisor:
Jesus Crawford Rose Garden
West 104th Street
New York, NY 10025
Le Perla Community Garden
76 West 105th Street
New York, NY 10025
https://livinglotsnyc.org/lot/58547
https://www.facebook.com/laperlagarden
Mobilization of Change Community Garden
955 Columbus Avenue
New York, NY 10025
https://www.facebook.com/MFCGarden
Nicholas Roerich Museum
319 West 107th Street
New York, NY 10025
(212) 864-7752
Hours: Sunday 12:00pm-4:00pm/Monday Closed/Tuesday-Saturday 12:00pm-4:00pm
Closed: Major holidays
Admission: Admission is free, though donations are welcome.
TripAdvisor Review:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
mywalkinmanhattan 