The front of George’s Pizzeria at 726 West 181st Street
There are pizzerias all over Manhattan, some good and some bad and some indifferent. Some just stand out for the excellent food, service and price and George’s Pizzeria is one of them. I came across this wonderful little hole in the wall when I was walking the Washington Heights neighborhood for my blog, MywalkinManhattan.com. What stood out were the reasonable prices and the excellent food. The staff here also has a good repour with their customers and I think that is very important.
The inside of George’s Pizzeria
I just had a simple piece of Cheese pizza on my first two trips to George’s and the pizza is amazing. The sauce they use has so much flavor and I think this is the body of the pizza. The slice was perfectly cooked and even when it is warmed up, the pizza is consistently excellent.
George’s delicious Cheese Pizza
The Cheese Pizza here is excellent
When I came back another time during my Broadway walk, I tried the Cheese and Sausage Calzone and what a gooey delight. This overstuffed Calzone had three cheeses and lots of sliced sausage inside of it. It was served with a side of their homemade red sauce.
The Sausage and Cheese Calzone with an icy Coke
The Calzone was really nice sized and perfect for lunch
It was the perfect size for lunch and just right for the 13 mile walk down Broadway. It was a delicious meal.
The front of Centro Pizzeria & Restaurant at 1469 Second Avenue
The pizza selection
Sometimes you come across a restaurant that you must have walked by a million times but never stopped in, the was Centro Pizza. Until one night when I was starved and it was the only place open. I saw the selection of pizzas in the window and had to stop. I am glad I did. The food here is excellent and very reasonable.
The pizza selection
My dinner that evening, a large cheese and pepperoni pizza with the Coke.
My dinner my first evening at Centro Pizzeria
The pizza here is amazing. The sauce has so much flavor and they load the pepperoni on the slices. You got a real good mouthful on these oversized slices.
The Cheese pizza
The Pepperoni pizza is loaded with pepperoni
What a great dinner
The next time are here, I was in the mood for one of their rolls and ordered the Pepperoni Roll. These are also oversized and they pack the filling inside.
My dinner that night
I have to tell you that for $8.00, it was like a mini pizza. The Pepperoni Roll was loaded with spicy pepperoni and mozzarella and baked to perfection.
The Pepperoni Roll with their homemade red sauce
The red sauce they serve on the side is perfectly spiced and has a rich flavor.
The roll was loaded with thin slices of pepperoni
It was delicious and I enjoyed my late dinner
The inside of the restaurant with its nice selection of sodas and drinks
I could not believe how fast the Summer came and went. It was like a blink of the eye. I had covered a lot of ground over the last three months that included many neighborhoods in New York City, many Upstate New York and New Jersey towns plus updating older blogs that needed some work. They needed new pictures and updates in the businesses I had featured in the past. A lot has changed since COVID.
I started Alphabet City just before the Labor Day Weekend and a lot has changed here since the 1960’s and 70’s. The whole hippie movement is now over only to be replaced by the current hipster movement where men are wearing knit head coverings in almost 90 degree and still wearing ‘man buns’ that are ‘so 2010’. To each his own.
Looking down Avenue C on a sunny afternoon
I just ignored everyone and started my walk on the Avenue’s of the neighborhood. The neighborhood is broken up that the closer you are to public housing the less gentrified it was on the block. The border seemed to be around 10th Street. The lower the street, the nicer the bars and restaurants.
The one thing I did notice about the neighborhood was the amount of community gardens that popped up in corners all around the blocks. This was the result of the community efforts in the 1970’s and 80’s that saved the neighborhood and what has made the neighborhood as desirable as it is now. It seems you can’t stop gentrification. Even so, these hard working gardeners are setting the tone for the neighborhood.
The signs of the times on top of the old tenements on Avenue C
The other thing I noticed about Alphabet City are the tagging and outdoor murals that line all the blocks. The people who creat this street art are so clever and creative. They really have an eye on color and design.
Some of the art cleverly tucked along the walls and columns in the neighborhood
Some of the art close by
I liked this design
The first of the Community Gardens that J toured that afternoon (they all seemed to be open the Saturday that I visited) was the Francisco ‘Pancho’ Ramos Community Garden at 709 East 9th Street. The garden showed the creative spirit of the people who volunteered there.
The sign for the Francisco “Pancho” Ramos Community Garden at 703 East 9th Street
(The History of the Park from its website)
The Lower East Side of the 1970s was a hard place with little green. Local residents noticed the abandoned, littered lot at the corner of Ninth Street and Avenue C and began to sow seeds and plants along the chain link and among the debris, and so the Ninth Street Community Garden & Park was founded in 1979. Today Pancho’s Garden hosts community events including music, art, and gardening workshops.
The pathways were lined with flower beds and some with vegetable gardens with the latest crops coming in. Here and there were pieces of artwork such as sculptures and paintings.
Walking through the gardens at the end of the summer
Following the paths
Walking through the flowering arbors
Some of the creative artwork that lined the paths
The raised flower beds
Some of the creative touches of the gardens
The Vegetable Gardens in full growth
Even the shed and play areas were colorful
This is what the community spirit of hard work and dedication can create in a neighborhood
Another interesting mural that I came across on the walls of the buildings
Just a reminder that the Alphabet City name is not a negative one anymore
The Alphabet Wine Company at 100 Loisaida Avenue (Avenue C)
Walking through Alphabet City today reminded me of years ago when I toured Bushwick in Brooklyn. The negative connotation of the name was now synonymous with ‘hipster’ cool. When I started to see signs like Alphabet Wine Company, you know times have changed for a neighborhood with not such a great past.
Passing the Lower East Side II still reminds you that public housing is a big part of this neighborhood
The next set of street art I admired was 15C Cultural Center building at 68 Loisaida Avenue (Avenue C). The shop was closed that afternoon so I got to see all the interesting art work on the metal gates.
This was on one side of building of the 5C Cultural Center at 68 Avenue C and 5th Street
Danielle Mastrion is a Brooklyn-born, New York City based painter and muralist who specializes in large scale, brightly colored murals. She holds a BFA from Parsons School of Design (Artist website)
This mural was around the corner dedicated to Puerto Rico
The changes to Avenue C start around East 10th Street as you leave the area around the public housing and walk closer to the areas that cater to a younger NYU/Pace student population. When I visited the neighborhood originally walking the borders of the neighborhood and even this evening, the bars and restaurants exploded with students whose first weekend in New York City was filled with excitement.
They chatted on their cellphones and yelled to their friends and acted like a scene in early ‘Sex and the City’ episodes. I can always tell when an out of towner is trying too hard.
The rebuilt section of Avenue C
I walked through my next community garden, Gustavd Hartman Square. Some of these patches of green were really small and just required a peek inside.
This plot of land, located at Second Street and Avenue C, is named for Gustave Hartman, a municipal court judge and philanthropist who spent most of his life in this neighborhood. Gustave Hartman was born in Hungary and immigrated to the United States with his parents while still a young boy. He attended P.S. 22 on Sheriff Street (now Columbia Street), the College of the City of New York, and received his law degree from New York University in 1905.
This plot of land, located at Second Street and Avenue C, is named for Gustave Hartman, a municipal court judge and philanthropist who spent most of his life in this neighborhood.
The growth of the garden needed a little pruning
I then started my walk back up Avenue C from the border of East Houston Street, which itself on all sides of the street has been knocked down and rebuilt. I have never seen a street go from shabby to chic more in the last fifteen to twenty years. Here the upper parts of the old Chinatown and Little Italy and the Lower East Side have merged with the Village. The lines have been blurred.
The changes to Avenue C start in the lower part of the neighborhood
The next set of public housing is the Bracetti Plaza
The next community garden I visited was the Secret Garden, a tiny park at 293 East Forth Street. Volunteers were hard at work weeding and planting while I walked around
Charlie Doves is a graffiti and fine artist from New York City’s Lower East Side, known for his work inspired by graffiti’s Golden Age and Japanese art. A master of his craft, Doves has moved from street art to fine art, fusing different techniques and styles to create a timeless body of work (Arts AI).
The Secret Garden Community Garden at 293 East Fourth Street
Alfredo Bennett, professionally known as The Royal “Kingbee” is a NYC artist. He was born in Harlem and raised in The Bronx in the early 70’s. He began his career painting graffiti on walls until gathering recognition and eventually being commissioned to perform his artistic abilities all throughout the city of New York. The artist went to JF Kennedy High School in the Bronx (BX 200 Artist.com).
The art was not just limited to the murals that looked more professionally done. The taggers showed their creativity on the closed gates of the businesses and the walls of the buildings around the Avenue.
Tagging art on Avenue C
Tagging art on Avenue C
The next community gardens I visited and one of the original is the Carmen Pabon Del Amanecer Jardin, dedicated to Carmen Pabon.
The sign for the Carmen Pabon Del Amanecer Jardin at
Carmen Pabón, ‘la madrina del Lower East Side,’ was a Puerto Rican community activist, gardener, poet and actress who founded a community garden as an urban sanctuary for children, local artists, Nuyorican poets and the elderly. Carmen helped thousands to create a better life for themselves and fed multitudes of Lower East Siders experiencing homelessness.
While a lot of the neighborhood is low rise and tenement housing, I stopped to admire this unique brick building at 116 Avenue C, with its interesting faces on all levels staring back at you. It reminded me of the many buildings I had passed recently in Lower Chelsea.
Each window had a demonist look in its eyes as you passed it. This building was built in 1900 (Streeteasy.com).
These menacing demons stare back at you from every window
I spent some more time cross crossing through more gardens admiring the work of dedicated gardens. The next I visited was the Flower Door Garden at 135 Avenue C.
La Plaza Cultural de Armando Perez Community Garden was founded in 1976 by local residents and greening activists who took over what was then a series of vacant city lots piled high with rubble and trash. In an effort to improve the neighborhood during a downward trend of arson, drugs, and abandonment common in that era, members of the Latino group CHARAS cleared out truckloads of refuse.
Working with Buckminster Fuller, they built a geodesic dome in the open “plaza” and began staging cultural events. Green Guerillas pioneer Liz Christy seeded the turf with “seed bombs” and planted towering weeping willows and linden trees. Artist Gordon Matta-Clark helped construct La Plaza’s amphitheater using railroad ties and materials reclaimed from abandoned buildings.
What I liked about this particular garden was all the interesting metal work along the fencing. It popped all around the fencing like you were living in ‘Whoville’.
One of the entrances of the gardens
Walking around the inside along the paths
The whimsical ironworks on the top of the fencing
As I made my way back up Avenue C, J came across a small museum that I had never heard of before, the Museum of Reclaimed Urban Space at 155 Loisaida Avenue (Avenue C).
The Museum of Reclaimed Urban Space at 155 Loisaida Avenue (Avenue C)
The museum is a time capsule of information from the late 1960’s through the 70’s when the neighborhood had really hit rock bottom with the City’s almost bankruptcy. The neighborhood and its residents banded together to save the neighborhood and clean up all these empty lots of garbage and debris.
The entrance of the museum
The description of the museum’s purpose
The museum has pictures of the neighborhood at various stages of its development. There are the ups and downs of this section of the City and how its residents maintain it. The neighborhood has seen so much change and much of it due to the volunteers who keep improving it.
The inside of the museum
How the changes took place in Alphabet City
The masks and decorations that line the walls
The history of the neighborhood and its triumphs
After my trip through the museum, I continued the walk up Avenue C. Above 10th Street is was a little patchy but you can tell the neighborhood is getting better. I never felt unsafe walking around the ‘Alphabets’.
For the rest of my walk, I enjoyed the ‘open-air’ museum that the sides of the buildings offered me. There were many interesting murals to admire.
I think this one was in honor of the island of Puerto Rico.
Artist Antonio “Chico” Garcia is a New York City based Graffiti artist. He is well known in the neighborhood and has been featured in several periodicals (Wiki).
I saw this on the side of a Chinese restaurant
Then when I got to the top East 14th Street and I came across this mural on the side of a school and I admired the different styles of art in each panel.
The panel that lined the school created by artists from the Thrive Collective
Danielle Mastrion is a Brooklyn-born, New York City based painter and muralist who specializes in large scale, brightly colored murals. She holds a BFA from Parsons School of Design (Artist website)
I loved this whimsical school painting by artists Savannah Zambrano and Andrea Amanda
Savannah Zambrano is a freelance sequential artist that hosts workshops and panels, does face painting and caricatures, and works with Traditional and Digital Media (Artist Bio website).
The artists sign with the Thrive Collective
I loved this mural with the Puerto Rican flag by artist Miki Mu
Michela Muserra is an international muralist and illustrator based in Brooklyn. A graduate of Accademia di Bella Arti in her hometown of Foggia, Italy. The artist has worked as a teaching artist with Thrive Collective since January 2017 (Thrive Collective website).
I love this colorful display of positive behavior of Frank Ape by artist Brandon Sines
Artist Brandon Sines was exposed to many cultures while growing up simultaneously in New York City, Toronto, and Los Angeles. He mixes Pop Art’s mass culture, Surrealism’s private associations, and inventive paint handling to create dreamlike environments. His mark making ranges from experimental techniques to illustrative precision. Parts of the paintings are crystal clear, and other parts reach abstraction.
This was another great mural on the school but I could not find the artist
The piece of art that I noticed was as I was walking down East 14th Street and I came across this taggers work. To me it looked like a surreal ghost.
The piece of street art was East 14th Street
I turned the corner to Avenue B and started my journey down the street. Being closer to the colleges and further from the projects and around Tompkins Square Park, the vibe is different on Avenue B. The restaurants are a bit more expensive and there are more bars.
Walking down Avenue B
Walking through the neighborhood that offers so much to a visitor
I saw this ‘Love’ mural on one of the businesses
On the corner of Avenue B and East 13th Street I saw all this great street art on top of murals
As I continued the walk through this part of the neighborhood, I came across another series of community gardens that dot the street.
The Relaxation Garden was the first of the gardens I passed and this really had nothing to it. It looked like a garden waiting for something to happen to it.
The inside of the Relaxation Garden needs some TLC
I stared up at one of the buildings on Avenue B and this face from above was staring back at me. I thought this was really interesting but do not want to know how this artist did this without falling off the roof.
I thought this face staring back was really cool but I do not want to know how the tagger did this.
While I was walking, I stopped at the various restaurants and bars to look at their menus. I have to admit, they are not cheap. For a neighborhood known for poverty in its pockets, the places are pricy.
Passing the outdoor cafes on Avenue B
I then passed one of the community centers in the neighborhood and came across this series of panels. These were very retro 1970’s.
Panel One ‘Resist’
Panel Two ‘People Power’
Panel Three ‘Educate’
I thought they were profound and reminded me of works from the 1970’s.
Avenue B like Avenue C has its share of landscapers and gardeners and you see this in the creativity of the small community gardens.
The first one I walked through and admired was in front of the Trinity Lower East Side Church at 602 East 9th Street on the corner of Avenue B.
The Trinity Church Lower East Side at 602 East 9th Street
In 1839 German Saxon immigrants began to meet for worship in the home of a baker. By 1843 they were sufficiently strong to incorporate The Evangelical Lutheran Trinity Church of the Unaltered Augsburg Confession in the City of New York, since changed to Trinity Lower East Side Parish. In 1850, the congregation built a new church with four apartments below and a one-room school in the back. The present church was designed by Robert Litchfield and built in 1993. Dedicated on July 9, 1996, the facility includes a 100-seat chapel, community center and parsonage (Trinity Church website).
The gardens in front of the old church were a bit over grown but very colorful.
The fenced in garden in full bloom at the height of the summer
The one thing I like about this garden is how tranquil it was that day. Services were over so the church was quiet. It is the perfect place to just sit and think and relax.
Avenue B lines the eastern side of Tompkins Square Park and the park was alive with joggers, musicians, dog walkers and groups of college students stretching across the lawns talking, reading and sunning themselves. This is a far cry from the homeless camps of the early 1980’s.
Tompkins Square Park was extremely busy that afternoon
It’s fun to just walk through the borders of the park and see the neighborhood just conversing with each other. Community is not dead in New York City. Someone had tagged over this mural but I still thought it was interesting. The colors really stood out in the mural,
Romero, is a Korean and Spanish, first-generation American artist, and muralist . She is a New York City based artist. Her art is a contemporary representation, inspired by her mixed cultural background and layered complexities of the human experience. Her work is inspired by human emotion, identity, women’s empowerment, and New York City (Artist bio from website),
YouTube video on Artist Bianca Romero
Some of the community gardens are more creative than others. The next one I visited was the East 6th Street and Avenue B Garden at 84 Avenue B
The East 6th Street and Avenue Garden at 84 Avenue B
All the community gardens seemed to be open the weekend of my walk so I got to see all the gardeners at work. People were digging, pruning and cutting shrubs and trees and cleaning the beds of weeds and then composting.
History of the Garden:
(from the garden website
Throughout 1983 and 1984, garden members surveyed the site, drew up the plans for its optimal use, built over 100 4’ x 8’ plots and a large communal plot (“the Circle”), laid pathways, prepared for the installation of a fence, and laid out ornamental borders. In April of 1984, Green Thumb issued a one-year lease. Garden members were busy planting ornamental shrubs and trees. The Garden received important early technical assistance from the Citizens’ Committee, Green Guerrillas and the Trust for Public Land .
The welcoming French at the entrance of the Sixth Street and Avenue B Gardens
This was one of the larger community gardens and it was fun to stroll down the paths of flowers and vegetables and watch everyone hard at work.
The inside of the entrance of the gardens
Walking along the paths
The Vegetable gardens
The gardens at the height of the summer
The pathways in the gardens
The sitting area in the middle of the garden
The Weed Library and composting area
The tree has been part of this garden for years
I loved the ironwork along the fencing of the garden as I walked up Avenue B
The neighborhood reaction to a empty storefront in a gentrifying neighborhood
The garden was established in 1993/1994 soon after a building there was demolished. The building’s address was 194 Ave B which is also the garden’s address, but the garden’s entrance is at 546 E 12th St (NYC Parks/GreenThumb will eventually replace the garden sign. Down to Earth Garden, which changed its name on July 1, 2020 from Children’s Garden, is a Green Thumb community garden in the East Village/Lower East Side of Manhattan, NYC.
We’re a small community garden, 1261 sq ft, on 12th St, by Ave B, southwest corner. However, we have been very active in composting (in combination with El Sol Brillante’s composting activities) since the fall of 2009
The flowering beds of the garden
The side beds
The artwork against the building was covered with vines and new growth
There was one last garden I visited but is was closing for the evening and that was the Vamps A Sembrar at 198 Avenue B.
The small Vegetable beds and visible art in the garden
The History of the garden:
(from the garden website)
The garden used to be two separate GreenThumb community gardens (Vamos A Sembrar and 200 Ave B Association Garden) until 2019, when they were combined as Vamos A Sembrar under the guidance of GreenThumb
This community garden had just closed for the afternoon so I could only see if from the fence. I could see the beds of vegetables growing. I really admired the artwork on the walls of the building. I will be returning on a future weekend to really explore all of these gardens, which I find are open on the weekends for the members and outside people.
I passed Pop’s Pizzeria at 223 Avenue B that I had eaten at when I walked the borders of the neighborhood. I had gotten at the restaurant late at night so I had not noticed the outside of the restaurant that evening.
When you look up above the restaurant, you see this Skelton painting smiling above the entrance.
The Skelton face that I did not see before when dining here on my last trip to the neighborhood
I finished for the evening around 5:00pm and went to get some dinner.
I checked Google and Avenue D Pizzeria which I had passed when walking down Avenue D was still open. So I walked down one of the side streets to give it a try.
The pizza selection was really good that night and the slices were reasonable at $1.50 for a Cheese slice and $2.50 for a Sausage slice.
The pizza selection that night
The hot food selection is $10.00 for a plate
The pizzeria also has a selection of hot entrees and sides at a reasonable price as well. There is no place to sit down anywhere near the pizzeria so I went back to Tompkins Square Park to eat my dinner. I found an empty bench and ate by one of the gardens.
My dinner that night in the park
I have to say that I was really impressed by the pizza for having to walk for blocks to eat it. The sauce was spiced so nicely and they loaded the sausage on the other slice.
After dinner I walked through the park and watched the bars and restaurants come to life. Most get a younger crowd of college students but there are a lot of family restaurants as well. I was amazed at the amount of kids who were dining with their parents that evening.
Admiring street art on the border of Alphabet City (I could not find the artist)
Since it was such a great night that I decided to walk around both Little Italy and Chinatown since they both border Alphabet City.
Walking around Little Italy on a warm late summer night
Outside the Cannoli King dessert shop a guy was singing Sinatra songs. I stopped to listen and this guy was really good. Everyone in the crowd was filming him.
Singing outside the Cannoli King at 152 Mulberry Street
It was fun to stand there and just enjoy the concert. The singer was wonderful!
The singer was great
Afree the mini concert was over, I continued my walk down Mulberry Street into Chinatown. Once upon a time there were distinct boundaries of Chinatown and Little Italy but they have become very blurred over the last twenty five years with gentrification affecting both neighborhoods.
I walked down Mott Street to Catherine Street and stopped at my favorite bakery that I know is always open late, Great Taste Bakery at 35 Catherine Street. I love the reasonable pastries and buns here and it is one of the last of the Chinatown bakeries that is still open late. This is also one of the few neighborhood bakeries left in a very gentrifying Chinatown. I come here after meals or just having dumplings up the road and finish here for dessert.
I love their Pineapple cream buns with some lemon tea at Great Taste Bakery
Since there was no place to sit down in here too I ate at one of the benches outside near the local park.
These buns are so good!
After all the walking that evening, you would figure I would be tired. There was something about the Lemon tea and the sweet bun that gave me a second wind and I walked from Chinatown to the Port Authority. It was such a beautiful warm night I figured ‘why not’? It was a beautiful walk up Broadway.
Admiring one of the old churches on lower Broadway on my long walk up Broadway to the Port Authority
Looking at Madison Square Park at night
It really ended up being a beautiful evening ing the City. For all its problems, the City really is magical at all times of the day. You just have to look at all the good things that people do that make this City better. Between the small mom and pop restaurants providing wonderful food to the community gardeners who make Alphabet City bloom, it really shows that New York City is bouncing back from COVID in its own way.
Finishing the Meatpacking District the other week and relaxing on the lounge chairs by the Hudson River while the sun was setting gave me one perspective on Manhattan. Walking on the other side of the island in Alphabet City gives you another. Talk about opposites.
My morning had consisted of laundry and yard work. I was trying to straighten the backyard up while doing the first load and cooking dinner. Then I had to come into the City and get a haircut at York Barber on Lexington Avenue. When all of this was accomplished I hopped the Q downtown and started the walk around 4:30pm.
My start point at the corner of West 14th Street and Avenue A
Written on the wall of a building on the corner of Avenue B and West 14th Street. At this point I don’t know who they are talking about because things are crazy all over
Reaching the end of West 14th Street and Avenue C at the Con Ed plant and the turn to West 13th Street to Avenue D
I walked through the Riis Houses courtyard to get to FDR Drive. The construction all over the highway area blocks all the entrances and exits coming and going from Avenue D
So I was only able to walk about two blocks before I had to double back and walk the rest of the border of the neighborhood down Avenue D.
The upper part of Avenue D facing the East River is the Jacob Riis Houses
The Riis Houses like the Wald Houses on the southern side of the were under construction and renovation on all sides. Their green spaces were being updated which is sorely needed.
I could see the reason why when there is no grass to keep off of
I found my name reached in cement
For all the generic appearances on the buildings, there was a glimmer of hope and creativity with this beautiful mural painted on the side of the building.
The mural on the Riis Houses
‘Hope and Opportunity’ on the side of the building
The artists for this mural ‘Hope so Electrifying’ sponsored by the Riis Houses Tenants Association
There were several of these murals all around the neighborhood on the sides of the buildings. It added a little color to otherwise dim buildings.
Avenue D businesses on the other side of the street
I have noticed one thing about Avenue D from East 13th Street is that it is not as bad as everyone says. Most of the buildings on the block have been knocked down and rebuilt with new apartment buildings. Most of the old tenements that have been left have either been renovated or in the process of being renovated.
While not as ‘hipster’ as Avenues A or B which are closer to the NYU campus, I see a lot more students jogging down the street much to the looks of the people living in the housing complexes, as if they see where the future of the neighborhood is going.
Towards the southern end of Avenue D are the Lillian Wald Houses. It amazes me that the builders of these public housing units never had the fourth site to realize that they were giving the residences a million dollar view of the river. Back when these were built though, no one wanted to live near the river as badly as it was polluted back then.
Again by the Wald Houses all the entrances to the river park have been blocked by construction. The signs have all said that the City is reconfiguring the green space around the houses.
The Wald Houses don’t look so bad during the day
I turned the corner at East Houston Street and Avenue D on the southern border of the neighborhood and walked towards the river to see if there was any access to Stuyvesant Cove. It had been open during the Great Saunter in May but seemed to be closed off in all sections this time around for renovations.
Taking a walk east down East Houston Street
The Lillian Wald Houses line the borders of East Houston Street, Avenue D and FDR Drive and the whole complex including walkways and green space are all under scaffolding. Here and there you can see the building and closer to PS 188 next door, I saw a series of more murals.
The murals on the Lillian Wald Houses from East Houston Street
The mural along the walls
I couldn’t get any closer to the mural to see who painted it without freaking the residents out. They all looked at me like I was ICE walking around the neighborhood. It was funny because the ever getting drunk college students on Avenue A just ignored me.
The one mural that really caught my eye was on the side wall of PS 188. It was really colorful and whimsical.
I turned the corner to walk up the part of FDR Drive that I could along the sides of the public housing. There are so many twists and turns to this route and it will be a while before you can walk this sidewalk. The residents here did their best to ignore me as well. It’s fun when they pretend not to see me.
The sidewalk along southern FDR Drive is blocked off at East 10th Street
I walked the overpass at East 5th Street to the John Lindsey East River Park, which closed again for renovations. It had been open in May but they closed off all but a small portion of the park and the running track. I still could see the magnificent views of the East River and the Brooklyn skyline.
Interesting street art on the barriers
Interesting street art on the barriers on FDR Drive
Crossing all the construction on FDR Drive
The view of the Wald Houses from the East 5th Street overpass
The John Lindsay East River Park side of FDR Drive with the running park
The park is going through a major renovation and is now closed off on all sides. The running track, part of the picnic area and a small part of the river walkway are now open while the rest of the park is behind fencing.
Looking downtown towards the Manhattan Bridge
Looking uptown towards the East River and the Brooklyn skyline
A little street art tucked into the fencing in the park
The full view of the East River and what the park will look like when it is finished
The John Lindsey East River Park has been closed at various stages for renovation and to make it more environmentally friendly to protect the coastline. I have read though that many in the area say the improvements in the park have lead to the rapid gentrification of the area. Still I have seen the park when it was fully open and when it is finished it will be a fantastic park that everyone will enjoy.
After walking around this small portion of the park left open, I walked over the overpass back to East Houston Street and walked the southern most border of the neighborhood.
It still amazes me how many times I have walked this neighborhood and never really noticed what it was about. I justly passed it while I walked around. Now that I took the time to really study it, I was fascinated by what I had missed.
Walking down East Houston Street in the late afternoon
Tucked here and there were community gardens, tiny restaurants and loads of interesting street art. The artists and the taggers are really creative in this part of the City.
Le Petit Versailles Garden at 247 East second Street
The tiny garden that stood out was Le Petit Versailles Garden at 247 East Second Street that was closed both on the East Second and East Houston sides of the park. I was still able to sneak in on an open side door and admire all the interesting art.
The inside of the gardens in bloom
The sculpture work and landscaping
The Olmec looking statue at the entrance of the gardens
Inside the gardens were a series of sculptures that looked like something out of the ‘Wizard of Oz’. These unique pieces of are were hidden in the shadows but I hope to take a closer look when the gardens are open.
Sculpture number one
Sculpture number two
Sculpture number three
The back part of the garden in the midafternoon
A bit further down East Houston Street I noticed a G’s Cheesesteak shop at 6 Avenue B. I had their cheesesteaks in Downtown Point Pleasant Beach and can attest to their excellence.
The G’s Cheesesteaks at the corner of East Houston and Avenue B
It wasn’t the restaurant itself that grabbed my attention, it was the artwork painted on the side. Geometric and just wild the street art was just crazy.
I think that people added to the art since
The monster makes a statement
Geometric designs
I was not sure if Flore was the artist
I thought that this was clever
So was this
As I was down East Houston Street, a store window to a thrift shop caught my eye. While the store didn’t strike me as unique, the display in the window I thought was great. Someone used their creativity on this.
I thought this was surreal
Very clever from both views
I finally made it back to the southern part of Avenue A and talk about the extremes in the neighborhood.
Reaching Avenue A at twilight
While Avenue D is still gritty and a bit dangerous, Avenue A is like an extension of the NYU and Pace campuses. It was wall to wall bars and restaurants and outdoor cafes.
Walking up Avenue A in the late afternoon
The Best Housekeeping store at 17 Avenue A is an appliance store with the best murals on their roll down gates.
As I walked up Avenue A on this warm and clear Sunday night, I could not believe how packed all the restaurants and bars were and how young the crowds were dining. It looked to me that the colleges had just started the semester and everyone was letting loose a bit as classes started.
The tagging and street art dominated these blocks
I then passed 50 Avenue A with its interesting Monkey looking sculptures and its beautiful outdoor pictures.
Hearth House is a condop with a wonderful neighborhood vibe. One elevator, six stories…only a handful of units per floor. Most layouts offer two bedrooms. Top floor units have private roof terraces and some are duplexes (Streeteasy.com).
The Monkey (or Tiger motive on the building)
The wild painting outside this pet shop looks like a surreal ‘Magilla Gorilla’
It looks like the pet shop that was here has closed.
Walking up Avenue A at twilight
Interesting street art tucked on the sides of the building
St. Marks Place and Avenue A was closed off for about two blocks for outdoor dining
Much has been written about Tompkins Square Park over the years from a major drug den of the late 1960’s to the early 80’s, then a homeless camp, the Wigstock, the famous drag shows of the late 80’s to early 90’s to Mayor Giuliani closing the park down fencing it off and moving everyone out for a major renovation.
I had not stepped foot in this park since the fencing came down in the late 1990’s and I figured almost thirty years was enough time.
The corner of Avenue A and Tompkins Square Park at East 10th Street
The park has definitely changed and for the better. Yes, it does need a good weeding but it attracts a very diverse crowd of people from young couples walking around after eating to the dog walking crowd to the college students lying on the grass talking to the homeless on the benches there is a little bit of everyone at this park.
Walking around the pathways of Tompkins Square Park
The park has been reseeded and landscaped and now like Washington Square Park another extension of a backyard to the NYU, CUNY and Pace students.
The park was in bloom in the late Summer
The statue of Samuel S. Cox stands guard at the southwest entrance of the park
Samuel Sullivan “Sunset” Cox was born in Zanesville, Ohio, and served his home state as a Democratic Congressional representative from 1857 to 1865 before being unseated. After moving to New York in 1866, Cox served again in Congress for several terms from 1869 until 1889. Although Cox once publicly declared that his most satisfying contribution to public service was championing the Life Saving Service—founded in the 1840s to patrol the coasts and save imperiled boaters during bad weather, the group was absorbed into the Coast Guard in 1915—this statue is sponsored by U.S. Postal Service workers because of Cox’s support for their quality-of-life issues (NYCParks.org).
Artist Louise Lawson was an American born artist who studied at the Art Academy of Cincinnati and Cooper Union. She worked as an apprentice under several famous sculptures and was one of the first American female sculptures to have a professional career. She is known for her Neoclassical sculptures (Wiki).
As I walked up Avenue A, the whole street is like an open air museum of street art but commercial and by taggers. Many of the restaurants had them painted on their walls.
The interesting mural was tucked under a building that was under renovation
Artists 23TatsCru is a group of Bronx based graffiti artists turned professional muralist (Wiki).
I walked both sides of Avenue A to admire the artwork and peek at all the menus. By 6:00pm on a Saturday night, the place was filling up with college students and young couples who were visiting the bars and restaurants. On this perfect night, everyone wanted to eat outdoors.
Walking the other side of East 14th Street
I made my way back down East 14th Street in the early evening tour walk the other side of the blocks.
Walking down the other side of East 14th Street in the late afternoon
The street art on the side of a restaurant on East 14th Street
Pedro Albizu Campos was a Puerto Rican born American lawyer and activist , who fought for our Country in WWI and was a member of the Puerto Rican Nationalist Party.
I saw this piece of art on the sidewalk on East 14th Street
On a plain tenement building, this beautiful carving stood out
The view of the Con Ed Complex at the corner of East 14th Street and Avenue C
This interesting tag was on East 13th Street
Taking another walk down Avenue D again
When I got back to walking the other side of Avenue D, some of the businesses started to close up for the evening including some of the street vendors who were selling food. Many people had been giving me strange looks before had disappeared.
Walking past the Jacob Riis Houses in the late afternoon. They looked much nicer from the other side of the street
I stopped in at Avenue D Pizza because I had noticed their reasonable prices before but they were closing up for the evening and most of the food had disappeared from the display cases. I figured for another time.
Looking down the other side of Avenue D and you realize how much these blocks have changed in the last twenty years
Walking back up Avenue A again as the bars really started to fill up
It started to get dark at 8:00pm when I finished rounding East 14th Street for the last time that evening.
There were many restaurants to choose from that evening so I searched my Mileage Plus Dining Club to see any recommendations. It suggested Pop’s Pizzeria at 223 Avenue B not far away.
What an excellent recommendation because the pizza is wonderful here. They have some unusual pizza topping combinations and it really worked.
The inside of Pop’s Pizza
The selection of pies to choose from
I decided on the classic Margarita and a piece of Pepperoni with Cherry Peppers that had a hot and tangy flavor when they topped it with a little honey. The pizza is excellent here and the service was so friendly. The guys working here made some excellent suggestions and I really enjoyed my dinner.
My dinner that evening
The Margarita slice with freshly grated cheese on top
The Pepperoni with fresh cheese and honey on top
I really enjoyed my meal that night
It was such a beautiful evening, I decided to walk back to the Port Authority. The weather was still warm but crisp that evening and it was nice that the cool weather had come back.
I walked up Third Avenue and then crossed over to Park Avenue where I had admired the views.
Walking up Park Avenue that evening
I figured I worked off my lunch and dinner and it had been an interesting walk considering the neighborhoods shady past as a drug den. It may still have its problems but thirty five years and a reinvented and gentrified City shows you how resilient Manhattan really is and how it just keeps changing for the better.
After six months of classes and finishing Graduate school, I am finally back to walking the neighborhoods again. This time to finish Lower Chelsea, which has changed from a neighborhood of manufacturing and shipping to one of the now more exclusive neighborhoods in Manhattan. I started my walk at Sixth Avenue and West 23rd Street.
I found the City a little quieter than on other weekends but figured those who get out of New York City were probably at their weekend homes either at the shore or in the country.
The corner of Sixth Avenue and West 23rd Street
I started the walk where I left off last November walking the streets of the Lower Flatiron District on the corner of Sixth Avenue and West 23rd Street. This is the border of the Lower Flatiron District and Lower Chelsea. These neighborhoods overlap so much I am not sure where on neighborhood starts and the other stops.
Much of West 23rd Street over the last several years has been torn down and rebuilt with new apartment buildings or older more historical buildings have been renovated for the same purpose. The neighborhood has become that desirable especially with the creation of the High line Park. The first building that always stands out in the neighborhood is the Chelsea Hotel at 204 West 23rd Street.
The historic Chelsea Hotel at 204 West 23rd Street
The one building that always impresses me is the Chelsea Hotel. This former Residential hotel is now a combination of residential apartments and a traditional independent hotel.
The Chelsea Hotel at 222 West 23rd Street was built between 1883 and 1885 and was designed by architect Philip Hubert from the firm of Hubert, Pirrson & Company. The hotel is designed in the Queen Anne Revival with a combination of American Gothic (Wiki).
The hotel had originally opened as a cooperative and a home to artists and members of the theater community, but the concept changed in 1905 when it reopened as a hotel. The hotel has gone through several management changes over the years. In early 2022, the Chelsea Hotel reopened again as a hotel when the interior renovations were finished.
The historic plaques at the hotel
The hotel has such a celebrated past with all the famous people who have stayed here. I think all the plaques on the front of the hotel don’t even touch the number of well known names who resided here.
The historic plaque
The historic plaque
The historic plaque
This is just a small portion of the famous people who have resided here.
The hotel went through a massive renovation recently and is now open as a regular hotel. Many older residents still live there but as their numbers dwindle that rest of the building will probably become a regular hotel.
At 244 West 23rd Street is a beautifully embellished building in brick and cream colors was built in 1900 by developer Isidor Hoffstadt. Decorations of garlands adorn the windows and top of the building and some of the upper floor windows are surrounded by archways. It now contains twelve lofts with multiple bedrooms (Daytonian in Manhattan).
While the core of West 23rd Street has changed with gleaming new buildings as residential and office space, as you get closer to Eighth Avenue the neighborhood has that classic ‘old New York’ look to it.
Walking down West 23rd Street near Eighth Avenue
I walked the length of West 23rd Street from Sixth Avenue, the border of the lower Flatiron District to Riverside Park. The weather just kept changing going from really sunny to cloudy and rainy the entire time I walked the neighborhood. One comment it was raining and the other it would be dazzling sunshine.
West 23rd Street by Tenth Avenue and the Hi Line Park
At the end of West 23rd Street starts Chelsea Waterside Park and Hudson River Park, which lines the entire side of the Upper West Side. The gardens were at the height of their bloom and it was a beautiful display of flowers.
This was the legacy of the Bloomberg Administration’s ‘Million Tree’ initiative. Between these parks that lined the waterways and the High line Park, it just made the neighborhood more desirable.
Funny how the weather went from sunny to rainy in ten minutes on Memorial Day weekend. By the time I walked to Hudson River Park, it got gloomy again. Still, it did not affect the beauty of the parks and helped water all the beautiful flowers blooming.
The flower beds were in full bloom
The park was in full bloom in the late Spring and was dazzling. Their Friends groups and gardeners are doing a wonderful job maintaining these flower beds.
As I walked the piers, the clouds kept rolling in and out and it sprinkled off and on that afternoon.
Admiring the view as I was waiting for the clouds to clear
The skyline of Jersey City was gloomy and impressive at the same time
Then the clouds broke again and the sun came out. This would be the weather all day long. The clouds then the sun then the clouds then rain and then the sun. It made for an interesting walking day.
The sun finally came out on Pier 57
The view of the Hudson Yards was just spectacular when the clouds passed by
The path led from the Hudson River Park to Pier 57 and I took the pathway through the Pier and all the recreation buildings that now make up the complex. I had never seen it from the river side of the pier.
Pier 57 from the waterfront side of the complex with all the pleasure boats
As I walked through the passageway, I learned the history of the pier and all the famous ships that had docked or left the pier. There was a display of pictures of famous arrivals and departures from the pier that I stopped to read about. It was a interesting look at the past of these piers,
The people at the dock were waiting for the Carpathian to arrive with the Titanic survivors in 1914.
The Carpathian arriving at New York harbor with the Titanic survivors.
The Lusitania leaving New York harbor for its final voyage. It would be torpedoed before it arrived in Europe.
The modern Chelsea Piers of today
Walking down Eleventh Avenue when the rain cleared
Along past the new construction along Eleventh Avenue
For all the building and changes this neighborhood has been through and so many luxury buildings replacing the docks of the past, there is still a little influence of the old neighborhood that still pops up from time to time. The graffiti art is still fantastic all over the City.
Some of the street art on the construction site on Eleventh Avenue
Some of the street art along the fence of the new construction
I followed Eleventh Avenue down the sidewalk to the Food Court at Pier 57. That was interesting with all the sounds and smells of different cuisines cooking.
The Food Court at Pier 57 should not be missed
The Food Court at Pier 57 really has some wonderful restaurants. There is an interesting mix of Spanish, Italian and Asian cuisines in the food court but it can be a bit pricey. The smells are amazing and you could almost taste the spices in the air. The couple of times I have been here the place is always busy.
The excitement of entering the Pier 57 Food Court
The floral decorations in the middle of the food court. I love the decorations here. They are really festive. The only bad part of the food court is the prices are really high so be prepared to spend money on lunch and dinner.
I left my tour of the food court as the clouds rolled in again and I arrived at Little Island Park, one of the newest and most innovative parks in New York City. The whole park is built on this innovative type of piling that come together to create this whimsical park. Something out of “Whoville”.
My trip to Little Island and the Chelsea Market with my NYU class:
At the very corner of the neighborhood was ‘Little Island Park’ at . This very unique structure has been captivating both New Yorker’s and tourists since it was built.
I then took the time to walk all over Little Island. I explored all the paths and stairs and explored all the beautiful gardens and terraces. What views! As the clouds passed by, we had moments of brilliant sunshine and at times it looked like it was going to down pour.
The gardens in full bloom on Little Island
The views from the very top of the terraces as the clouds finally cleared
Walking back down the stairs
The view from the pathway on the way down towards the exit
The view from the exit of Little Island as the clouds rolled by
The rest of the afternoon was on again off again clouds. I crossed over Eleventh Avenue to West 14th Street into the borders of Chelsea and the Meatpacking District (where at this point all the meatpacking companies are gone). In their place now are gleaming new apartment buildings that surround the High Line Park.
Eleventh Avenue at West 14th Street
I crossed the street to see 14th Street Park in full bloom. This park represents this new neighborhood with its gleaming towers and expensive stores. The lawn was perfectly manicured and the flowers were in full bloom. I did not even see any homeless people in the park. Just young couples walking their dogs.
The gardens in 14th Street Park as you cross onto West 14th Street from Eleventh Avenue
The gardens in full bloom at the park on West 14th street
Crossing onto West 14th Street by the Meatpacking District near 11th Avenue
I have been walking around this neighborhood since the 1980’s and talk about change. What used to be buildings that were geared to the docks and shipping, then became clubs in the 1980’s and early 90’s are now lofts and luxury stores. I have really seen this City change.
Walking down West 14th Street
Walking down West 14th Street near the Meatpacking District
Walking in Meatpacking District by Tenth Avenue
This border that Chelsea now shares with the Meatpacking District (which no longer has any more meatpackers) has become one of the trendiest and innovative neighborhoods in the City. Aldo judging by the prices at the restaurants and stores, one of the most expensive.
West 14th Street in the Meatpacking District
Walking down West 14th Street
As you walk further away from the parks along the river coastline and further down West 14th Street, more modern buildings pop up on both sides of the street. Still here and there, details of the old neighborhood still pop up such as at 200 West 14th Street, with its stoic faces and immense detail in the doorway.
The unique sculptures on outside of 200 West 14th Street
The building was marketed with the sophisticated-sounding name “French Flats,” one of the very first of these was built by Jersey City businessman Henry Meinken at the corner of 14th Street and 7th Avenue. Meinken called on James W. Cole to design his new building in 1888. Cole was a favorite of the Astor family and he built several factory, warehouse and apartment buildings for them, several a few blocks west on 14th around Hudson and 9th Avenues (Daytonianinmanhattan.com).
It was completed in 1889 and given the cultured name “The Jeanne d’Arc.” The five-story brick building with brownstone trim had commercial space on the street floor and 8 commodius apartments above — two apartments per floor. To set the building apart from the baser tenements, Cole added an attractive pressed metal cornice and carved brownstone sills and lintels (Daytonianinmanhattan.com).
The street art along West 14th Street was very interesting as well. I loved this version of lady liberty. This was painted outside of a pharmacy.
The street art outside the pharmacy by Artist Shira One
Shiro’s artwork is an exploration of classic New York urban history through the lens of an artist who reveres Hip Hop culture. Her artwork is a prime example of the fusion of Japanese aesthetics and old school New York graffiti art. In 2002, she moved to New York alone, and after living between Japan and New York, she obtained an US American artist visa in 2013, acquired an US artist green card in 2021, and is currently based in New York (Artist Shiro1 website).
Another great mural that sits on the side of a building on West 14th that stands out entitled “Mural on 14th Street, New York” by Brazilian artists brothers Gustavo and Otavio Pandolfo known as ‘Osgemeos’. This colorful and engaging piece of artwork towers over the street and shows an exaggerated image of everyday New Yorkers.
The word ‘Osgemeos’ is translated as “the twins” in Portuguese, is a collaborative art duo comprised of twin brothers Gustavo and Otavio Pandolfo. It was in the 1980’s with the invasion of hip-hop, and the explosion of Brazilian culture that the brothers began to use art as a way of sharing their dynamic and magical universe with the public. Combining traditional, folkloric, and contemporary elements of Brazilian culture with graffiti, hip-hop, music, dreams and international youth culture, the artists have created an expansive body of work that includes murals, paintings, sculpture, site-specific installations, and video (Lehmannmaupin.com website).
This is what I love about walking around Manhattan. You do not even have to step foot in a museum to enjoy great artworks that are tucked into corners of every neighborhood on walls, telephone poles, on the street and in courtyards. You just have to look for it.
As I walked further down West 14th Street, between all the new construction going on and the gleaming glass towers that seemed to be changing the face of the neighborhood a few buildings stood out for the beauty and details in their architecture.
The first one was the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe at 229 West 14th Street. I was attracted the elegant look of the church.
Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe at 229 West 14th Street
The church opened in 1902 and was designed by architect Gustave E. Steinback in both the Baroque Revival and the Spanish Baroque style of architecture (Wiki).
The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe was founded in 1902, and became the first parish in New York City to serve the swelling numbers of Hispanics. During this time the Archdiocese was ill-staffed with priests who could not speak Spanish and those who were willing to reach out to the newcomers and learn their language and their ways were preoccupied with other important ministries. Our Lady of Guadalupe parish was established as a national parish, responsible for the spiritual care of all Hispanics of the city. (Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe website).
The details of the Church stood out for their beauty and elegance
Another standout building on the corner of West 14th Street and Seventh Avenue is 154 West 14th Street. Arranged in a tripartite base-shaft-capital composition with large window areas, this building is a striking and unusual example of a large loft building partly clad in terra cotta, on the three-story base, on the spandrels between the white-brick piers of the midsection, and on the upper portion. The building was designed by architect Herman Lee Meader and was built between 1912-1913 (The Historic District Council Website).
The details on the building are so unusual and you really have to look at the building close to appreciate its beauty.
Another building that stands out on West 14th Street is 144 West 14th Street which is part of the Pratt College today but has an interesting past. Pratt bought the building in 1999.
The beautifully detailed building at 144 14th Street
144 West 14th Street is a grandly-proportioned Renaissance Revival-style loft building. It is faced with limestone, tan brick and terra cotta and was designed by the prominent architects Brunner & Tryon in 1895-96. It is seven stories tall and has a street façade articulated through a series of monumental arches embellished with neo-classical ornament (Historic District Council website).
The detail work at 144 West 14th Street
Though the building reminded me of one of the department stores from the post Civil War period, the building was actually used for manufacturing, one the tenants of the building being Macy’s (DaytonianinNYC website).
Turning the corner onto to Sixth Avenue that Chelsea shares with the Lower Flatiron District, you enter what was once the next great shopping area of the late 1880’s to about 1920 when the “Ladies Shopping District’ moved from 14th Street after the Civil War to Sixth Avenue between West 20th Street to West 23rd Street to create “The Ladies Shopping Mile”.
It would then move to West 34th Street where Macy’s resides today and the ghosts of B. Altman, Stern’s, Orbach’s and Franklin Simon buildings still remain to the last holdout of Lord & Taylor on Fifth Avenue that closed a few years ago that used to line the blocks. Most of the older smaller buildings have been torn down and gleaming new towers are starting to line parts of West 14th Street between Eighth to Fifth Avenues and up along the Avenues.
West 14th Street by Sixth Avenue
Looking up Sixth Avenue and 19th Street, the eastern border of Chelsea
Walking up Sixth Avenue towards West 20th Street, most of the more elaborate buildings are closer to the edge of West 20th Street. Walking back up toward the heart of the former “Ladies Shopping Mile” along Sixth Avenue from West 18th Street to West 23rd Street, the lower part of Sixth Avenue is similar in look to West 14th Street. A mish-mosh architectural styles from years of knocking down the older buildings. Inside are a variety of fast food restaurants, coffee shops and small stores.
The first building left of the former shopping district is the former Pace Building at 610 Sixth Avenue.
David Price opened his first women’s clothing store, D. Price & Co. around 1887. The Price Building was built in 1910-1912 and designed by Buchman & Fox in the Beaux-Arts style (Wiki). The was the combination of the two stores, the one facing Sixth Avenue and the one facing 18th Street (DaytoninManhattan.com).
The embellishments of 610 Sixth Avenue designed by Buchman & Fox.
Next to the Price Building is what was one of the grandest of the department stores in New York City at 620 Sixth Avenue, Seigel Cooper
620 Sixth Avenue-The former Siegal Cooper Department Store
The original store design in the late 1800’s (New York Historical Society)
The Siegel-Cooper Department store was a Chicago based store that was founded in 1877 by Henry Siegel, Frank H. Cooper and Isaac Keim. They opened the New York City store in 1896 on the Ladies Mile Shopping District. The store was designed by the architectural firm of DeLemons & Cordes in the Beaux-Arts design. When it opened, it was the largest department store in the world until Macy’s opened in 1902 (Wiki).
The Siegal Cooper insignia on the building.
The window details
The details on the upper windows of the store.
Henry Siegel over-extended himself and sold the company in 1902 to an investor and the store declared bankruptcy in 1915 and closed in 1917. After the store closed, it was used as a military hospital and then as a warehouse. Today after years of being used as a warehouse, it now has several retailers located in the store space (Wiki).
Across the street from the Siegel-Cooper store is the old B. Altman & Company store before they moved to East 34th Street.
625 Fifth Avenue-The old B. Altman & Company Department Store.
B. Altman & Company was founded in 1865 as a family store that eventually came under the control of Benjamin Altman. It moved from its Third Avenue and Tenth Street location to 621 Sixth Avenue in 1877. The store expanded four times in this location to cover what is now 625 Sixth Avenue. The store was designed in the Neo-Grec design and built in four stages. First by architects David and John Jardine for the original store in 1877 and then the extension in 1880. Then by architect William Hume in 1887 and then by architects Buchman & Fox in 1910. The store moved to the corner of Fifth Avenue and 34th Street in 1906 when the shopping district moved to 34th Street (Wiki).
The last old department store on the Ladies Mile Shopping District is at 641 Sixth Avenue on the corner of Sixth Avenue and West 20th Street.
641 Sixth Avenue-The old Simpson Crawford Department Store
Simpson Crawford like many stores on Sixth Avenue had its humble beginnings on 19th Street. The store continued to grow and expand catering to the ‘carriage trade’ and selling the finest merchandise. After their new store was destroyed in a fire in 1880, they opened the store at 641 Sixth Avenue in 1899 which was designed by architectural firm William H. Hume & Son in the Beaux-Arts design (dayoninmanhattan.com).
The details of 641 Sixth Avenue.
This part of the Flatiron District feels so different from the northern part of the neighborhood. So much of it has disappeared over the years that the character has changed. It does not have the distinction of the blocks between 23rd and 20th streets. There are blocks of these types of buildings whereas the blocks of the old shopping districts of the early to late 1800’s from 14th to 18th Streets have slowly disappeared over time. Older buildings have since been replaced with modern office and apartment buildings. The buildings have even been refitted for apartments and for the growing college campuses in the area.
While there are many architectural gems in this neighborhood, it just goes to show the progression of Manhattan and how things have changed in the last 100 years. The City keeps marching on. Still this section of the Lower Flatiron District shows just how important this part of the old “Midtown Manhattan” was from the Civil War until WWI. Just look up and admire all the details on each building. There are a surprise and delight for the eyes.
The Street art on West 15th Street off Sixth Avenue “I Love New York”
Read my blog on Walking the Streets of the Lower Flatiron District:
While I was walking around Chelsea, I was trying to figure out where to go for dinner. A guy was sampling slices of pizza outside of a new branch of Pizza Studio on West 14th Street. It was delicious and I decided to eat there for dinner.
I thought that the prices were very fair and you got a delicious 12 inch pizza for $10.00 and a lemonade. The whole bill with an extra tip was around $12.50, which was reasonable for all the food. Plus the pizza was delicious.
The ingredients to choose from
The Sausage pizza I ordered that evening
The pizza was wonderful
The pizza served with the Blue Lemonade
What was really nice after the day walking around the neighborhood was the lemonade was so refreshing. You got a choice between Watermelon Lemonade and the Blue Lemonade above and you got free refills. Talk about quenching your thirst on a hot day. It was a great dinner.
Walking past Holy Apostles Church at night
The Empire State Building lit for the holiday
A beautiful site of the Empire State Building
On each corner of the neighborhood, surprises and changes keep this neighborhood in a continuous flux. It just keeps reinventing itself.
The school year has started and that means that classes at the college have resumed for the Fall semester and it back to work time. Coming into New York becomes less and less as I am starting to grade papers and put together lectures.
I was able to sneak in on Sunday, September 8th for the monthly Sunday Supper at Holy Apostles Church where I volunteer. I find the church service before the supper very inspiring and I enjoy listening to Reverend Ann as the talks are less preachy and more uplifting about the issues of life and what is going on in the world.
After the service is over, then it is time to set the tables and eat. It is always a nice meal and you have some interesting conversations while you are at the table. We always have a nice crowd of the people and it is perfect time for me to meet up with other volunteers that i have not seen in a while.
Everyone breaks bread with each other after the service
Sunday Supper at Holy Apostles Church
It was a nice dinner with Chicken Fried Steak with gravy, Baked Ziti, Mixed Salad, Broccoli and cauliflower and Fresh rolls. For dessert, there was Bread Pudding and assorted cookies for dessert. It was quite the feast. After lunch was over, it was time to walk around the streets of Gramercy Park.
I started my walk on the border of the neighborhood at Park Avenue South and East 22nd Street. Like most of the neighborhood, the most beautiful architecture was around Gramercy Park itself. The first building I passed was the Sage Building. I had not noticed the beauty of this building by just looking at the front of it.
The side of the Sage Building
Across the street from CUNY campus, the Sage House at Four Lexington Avenue. Sage House was built in 1913 for the Russell Sage Foundation, a social welfare nonprofit that was an early advocate of social work and urban planning (Streeteasy.com).
The building is a pre-war office building designed by Grosvenor Atterbury in the Italian Renaissance palazzo style. It has a rusticated red sandstone façade, vaulted ceilings, and carved decorative shields (Wiki). The building was converted to Coop apartments in 1986. The building next to it was the Hotel Gramercy Park which is currently closed and under renovation. Even though the hotel is closed, you can still peek through the scaffolding and see its elegance.
The core of Gramercy Park surrounds the park itself with most of its classic older buildings surrounding the park. Some of the streets were tree lined and looked like classic old New York.
The tree lined streets of Gramercy Park
The end of East 22nd Street is the Peter Cooper complex. Every thing is in bloom and the complex is so nicely landscaped.
Peter Cooper Village in the Summer of 2024
On the way back down East 22nd Street. I passed the Church of the Epiphany at 375 Second Avenue and passed an interesting sculpture dedicated to the victims of 9/11. If you do not walk on the side streets, you will miss this beautiful park with this interesting sculpture in the garden. It looks like a burst of sun.
The sculpture in the Peace Garden, ‘Light Overcomes Darkness’
The plaque for the sculpture ‘Light Overcomes Darkness’
The sculpture was designed by artist Witkor Szostalo
Artist Witkor Szostalo is a Polish born artist who graduated with MFA from the Academy of Fine Arts in Cracow. He is known for his works in stainless steel, wood and bronze. Mr. Szostalo works in both Poland and St. Louis, MO (Artist Bio/Wiki).
The sculpture was part of the larger Peace Garden that landscaped this side of the church.
The Epiphany Peace Garden by the Church
The plaque for the church’s Peace Garden
I made my way back down through the neighborhood and never noticed the Gramercy House private gardens behind a fence. Some of the residents were outside enjoying the afternoon and having a nice conversation as I was snapping pictures of this private garden.
The private garden of the Gramercy House
This is what always amazes me about New York City is the tiny pockets of green that you come across when you walk the streets. It was so beautiful to look at that I envied the residents. It was such a fantastic sunny day.
I made the turn at Park Avenue South and made my way down East 21st Street and passed the Baruch College campus again, with its beautiful architecture and interesting artwork.
The beauty of the Admission Building of Baruch College
The building on the Baruch Campus that I admired was the was the Baruch College Administration Center whose entrance is at 135 East 22nd Street. I loved the Art Deco details on the building. These seemed to represent all aspects of business.
The beauty of the College seal
The front of the Baruch College Administration Center at 135 East 22nd Street
The elaborate details on the building give it its Art Deco appearance. The Art Deco Administrative Center at 135 East 22nd Street was built in 1937–1939 as the Domestic Relations Court Building, and was connected to the Children’s Court next door (Baruch College Website).
The Art Deco side of the building
Each of the panels represents a part of the business world.
The Art Deco details of the building
The buildings on the Baruch Campus are interesting in their details. Some of the buildings were being renovated at the time I was exploring the neighborhood but has the scaffolding came down on later walks, you really could see the beauty of this Art Deco Buildings.
As I walked down East 21st Street, I came across The Parish of Calvary-St. Georges. The elegant Episcopalian church was founded in 1832 and moved to Gramercy Park in 1846.
The Parish of the Calvary of St. Georges at 61 Gramercy Park North
The church’s design was inspired by parishioner Leopold Eidlitz, who designed the plain interior and the original openwork spires of St. George’s Church. The congregation was so satisfied with the design that they rebuilt the church after a disastrous fire in 1865 following the same design, under Eidlitz’ supervision. By that time the design was also influenced by Dr. Stephen Tyng, a new pastor hired for what had become a changing urban congregation (Church website).
Just before I turned the corner onto East 21st Street, just above the restaurant, Nico, I admired the ceramic details of 102 East 22nd. There is a real beauty in the Art Deco details around the windows and doorways.
The beauty is in the details
A better view above the restaurant awning at the Gramercy Arms Building
Gramercy Arms is a handsome, 10-story Art Deco-style apartment building at 102 East 22nd Street that was designed by Sugarman & Burger and erected in 1928 (City Reality). You have to admire all the ceramic work all over the building and see a peek of the rooftop garden at the top of the building.
The Novita Restaurant at the base of 102 East 22nd Street whose reviews were mixed when I read them on TripAdvisor.
The ceramic and grill work is beautiful. When you pass this part of the neighborhood you enter the center of Gramercy Park and that is the park itself.
What I always love about Gramercy Park is the interesting combination of beautiful brownstones, elegant mansions and interesting apartment buildings that line all sides of the park. The old Gramercy Park Hotel is currently under renovation so there was not much to see under all the scaffolding.
The homes surrounding Gramercy Park have access to the park with a key
Gramercy Park in the summer of 2024 at Gramercy Park West and East 21st Street
The park is amazing to walk by in any season by the end of the summer on a sunny day there was nothing like it. It almost shined against the sun.
The historic One Lexington Avenue at the corner of Lexington Avenue and Gramercy Park North
The historical apartment building had replaced the home of Cyrus West Field, who helped lay the first Transatlantic cable line across the Atlantic Ocean.
Built in 1910 by noted architect Herbert Lucas. This twelve-story intimate cooperative features extraordinary design details including a stately limestone and brick façade, timeless-elegant marble lobby and wood-paneled elevator still attended full-time by the elevator operator (Streeteasy.com).
The Cyrus West Field plaque on One Lexington Avenue where his home once stood
One Lexington Avenue was once the home of Cyrus West Field, who was considered the ‘Father of the American Cable” and helped lay the first trans Atlantic cable in 1858. When it broke, it was laid again in 1866 (American Experience).
The original house on the same corner in 1866 (NY Public Library)
Just across One Lexington Avenue was one of the best views facing the southern end of the neighborhood. The gardens just stood out this afternoon and with the clear sunny skies, it looked like a postcard.
Looking South from Gramercy Park down Irving Place
The park was at its peak of blooming and foliage in the beginning of September. I thought this was a beautiful shot of the true elegance of the park.
Looking at Gramercy Park East in the summer of 2024
The beauty of Gramercy Park is that all sides of the park are so pretty to look at. You can admire this park from all sides with the beautiful shrubby, flowers and the elegant architecture of homes and apartment buildings that surround the park.
As I continued to walk around East 21st Street, I passed the outdoor cafe of Grill 21 at 346 East 21st Street. I loved this picture painted outside the restaurant and the menu looked very interesting. I noted it to maybe try it later. The people who were eating outside that afternoon looked like they were enjoying their meal.
Walking past Grill 21 Restaurant at 346 East 21st Street
As I passed the NYPD 13th Precinct, I passed this very touching memorial to those on 9/11. Being now twenty years ago, it still seems like yesterday for those of us who lived through it. It means something to us every September but it seems lost to a newer generation who were born after it.
The memorial to the officers that died in the attacks on 9/11 outside the 13th Precinct at 230 East 21st Street
Walking around Gramercy Park West at East 22nd Street
After walking one side of Gramercy Park, I did a semi circle around park admiring the park from all angles. The park stretches from East 22nd to East 21st Streets and is the only private park left in New York City. The park is all that is left of the original Rose Hill Farm estate.
Gramercy Park North at East 22nd Street is all that is left of the corner of the Rose Hill Farm
Gramercy Park East
Gramercy Park East
Gramercy Park East
The plaque at 3 Gramercy Park East to former Mayor James Harper
Mayor James Harper served as Mayor of New York City for one term as a Republican from 1844-1845. Before that he established the publishing firm J & J Harper with his brother which eventually in time became Harper’s Brothers in 1825 (which became Harper & Row in 1962). He was only served as Mayor for one year (Wiki). He lived in Gramercy Park from 1847 to 1869 when he passed away (Wiki).
I love passing the old Stuyvesant Fish Mansion. I have always thought this was an apartment building but I just read that it is still a private home. This home was originally built in 1854 by William Samuel Johnson and it was expanded by architect Stamford White for the Fish family in 1887. When the family moved uptown to the more fashionable Fifth Avenue, the house was broken up into apartments. Many incarnations later it was sold as a private residence in the past few years (Wiki).
The beautiful brownstones and brick buildings at Gramercy Park South
This delightful little embellishment at East 20th Street
Street art on East 20th Street near Second Avenue
Street art on East 20th Street
Street art on East 20th Street-I thought this was so profound and so true!
Street art on East 20th Street
Just outside the edge of the neighborhood is the extension of East 20th Street is the border of Gramercy Park, Stuyvesant Town and Peter Cooper Village. The middle class enclave is beautifully landscaped and East 20th Street to the even nicer landscaped Stuyvesant Cove.
It was a brilliant sunny afternoon in the late summer. The temperatures had reached in the mid 80’s and it was clear and slightly cloudy when I visited the park. Everything was in late bloom including the sunflowers which were brilliant. I could not believe what a spectacular day it was that afternoon. I just relaxed for a bit and enjoyed the beautiful views.
The beautiful sunflowers in the Stuyvesant Cove Gardens
The sign welcoming you to Stuyvesant Cove Park
Walking back down East 20th Street into Gramercy Park South
The beautiful gardens of East 19th Street
Easy 19th Street at the end of the summer of 2024
The side of the apartment building at Irving Place
The old Carriage Houses at West 19th Street
The beauty of urban gardens on East 19th Street
I thought this was just gorgeous on a sunny afternoon
The building itself at East 19th Street was rather plain but I thought the archway was beautiful
I loved the creative Halloween decorations at 318 East 19th street
The decorations at 318 East 19th Street
The decorations at 318 East 19th Street
Halloween seemed to come early to parts of the neighborhood.
As I walked along the blocks along East 19th Street, I came across interesting street art around the neighborhood. Here and there things popped up that I thought were interesting to see.
Street art along East 19th Street
Street art along East 19th Street. The was right near a restaurant at 358 East 19th Street
The historic home of George Bellows
The plants surrounding the front of the home at East 19th Street
Artist George Bellows was an American artist who was self taught and left college to move to New York to pursue the life of a painter. He works were well known in art circles for their social and political themes (Wiki).
I thought this series of brownstones were just classic New York
Walking down East 18th Street has its charming blocks of brownstones with gardens and potted plants
The charming urban gardens of Gramercy Park
The elegant Halloween decorations in the neighborhood
What was interesting about passing the Stuyvesant Houses on East 18th Street is how old these homes are and that they are still part of the fabric of the neighborhood in the 21st Century. They were built by Cornelia Stuyvesant Ten Broeck in 1852 on land that was part of the original Stuyvesant Farm. This could be considered part of the development of ‘suburban housing’ in New York City. This was built beyond the core of Manhattan which was located below Wall Street (Historic Market of the New York Community Trust).
The sign for the designated historic part of the neighborhood
This triplex apartment was originally designed and configured as a mid-century artist’s studio by New York architect Bernard Rothzeid, who was commissioned to modernize the space by the painter and print-maker Al Blaustein (Streeteasy.com). It looked like a smaller version of the Flatiron Building and stands out in a neighborhood of brownstones and apartment buildings.
I was impressed by this series of flower boxes along East 17th Street
Here and there along all the streets of this part of Gramercy Park were pocket gardens and decorations outside buildings all over the neighborhood.
327 East 17th Street is home to the Robert Mapplethorpe Treatment Center and the home of composer Antonin Dvorak on this site. This is the home of the Mapplethorpe Foundation.
Robert Mapplethorpe was an American Artist known for his black and white photography and his study of celebrity, gay life and self portraits. He had attended Pratt Institute in his early education. Before he died, he founded the Mapplethorpe Institute, which handled his estate to help promote his work and has been instrumental in raising millions of dollars for AIDS research (Wiki/Mapplethorpe Foundation website).
The historic sign for the once home of composer Antonin Dvorak
There was an interesting statue dedicated to the composer inside of Stuyvesant Park. All along East 17th Street I came across more interesting street art.
The beautiful flowers in Stuyvesant Square in the very late Summer of 2024
The brilliance of Stuyvesant Park in the late summer. The park was in full bloom with summer flowers showing off their beauty and colors. The park still could use some work on the beds and lawns though.
The famous statue of Composer Antonin Dvorak inside Stuyvesant Square at the corner of the park at East 17th Street
Composer Antonin Dvorak was born just outside of Prague and came from a long line of business people who were innkeepers and butchers. His father recognized that when he was young the talent he had with music and encouraged this. While in Prague, he was sent off to a music school that started his career. The Institute for Church Music, as the school was officially known, was located in Konviktská street in the Old Town and provided instruction in organ playing, harmony and counterpoint. This was the beginning of his career (Dvorak website/Wiki).
The historic plaque in the park in Stuyvesant Square
Artist Ivan Mestrovic was a Croatian born American artist who was a known sculptor, writer and architect. He is a graduate of the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. He was known for his romantic and classical style sculptures (Wiki).
In 1963, this bronze portrait bust was given by the Czechoslovak National Council of America to the Philharmonic, but never put on public display. It is believed to be the last work of the noted sculptor Mestrovic, a student of Rodin and the first living artist to receive a one-person exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (NYCParks.org).
The beautiful brownstones along the northern part of Stuyvesant Square at East 17th Street
I rounded Stuyvesant Square on both sides, exploring all the historical buildings from all angles of the park. While I was in the park, I admired all the flowers in the gardens and the statuary.
I saw this sculpture by Lee Tal was also in the park
Artist Lee Tal is an Israeli born artist now based in New York City. He received a BA in History and an additional BA in Art and Photography from Open University in Tel Aviv. He received a B.F.A studies at the Royal College of Art, London, England. In his early works, Tal draws inspiration from everyday objects found in our daily lives, seeking to transcend their original purpose (Artist’s bio website). This interesting work was commissioned by the Stuyvesant Park.
The sculpture by Lee Tal ‘Blooming Reflections- Yellow Trout Lily’
I walked through the gardens from all sides and walked out to Rutherford Place and admired the old churches along the street. On the northern side of Rutherford Place was the historic St. George’s Church.
St. George’s Church was founded in 1752 and the church moved around several times until 1846 when this new church was started and finished in 1854. The church was designed in the Romanesque Revival style by architects Charles Blesch and Leopold Eidlitz. Mr. Belsch designed the interior and was influenced by the Rundbigenstil, the round arch style. The church has been altered and rebuilt over the years after a devastating fire in 1865 (Wiki).
The historic plaque of the church
The church‘s official sign
Next to St. George’s Church is the Quaker Friends building that has been part of the neighborhood since the 1700’s. This historical building is part of a full complex of modern buildings that stretch down East 16th Street from the park.
The historical Friends Meeting House at 15 Rutherford Place
This building was built in the Restrained Greek Revival Design in 1861 and has been in use since that time for the annual meetings (New York Landmark Preservation).
The historic Friends Meeting House at 15 Rutherford Place
The views of Stuyvesant Square Park in the late Summer months
I walked around the park before exploring East 16th and 15th Streets and just like Gramercy Park there is a true beauty in the architecture that surrounds this green space.
The historic beauty of East 15th Street on the southern eastern side of the park.
Somehow this tree just stuck out at the entrance of 146 East 16th Street
Another view of this tiny garden in front of 146 East 16th Street
The historical buildings that are part of the church seminary along East 16th Street
This is classic Old New York with brownstones covered in ivy is part of the church’s housing
I cross-crossed so much through Stuyvesant Square that the homeless guys and the delivery drivers thought I was an undercover cop watching them.
The park is still so colorful in the late summer
The beautiful stained glass windows in from of the East 15th side of St. Mary’s Church at East 15th Street
St. John The Baptist Greek Orthodox Church at 143 East 17th Street
Built in 1885, designed by Schwartzmann & Buchman, with a baroque façade that was altered in 1957 by Kyriacos A. Kalfas (Wiki).
Finishing my walk along East 15th Street with the elegant townhouses that line the southern half of Stuyvesant Square
For dinner that evening, I had Chinese food at Mee’s Noodle House at First Avenue. I had eaten at their branch years ago at their uptown branch near Sutton Place and ordered the same meal as a comparison, the Seafood Steamed Dumplings and the Shrimp Lo Mein. It’s nice to know that nothing changes. The food was excellent.
The sign inside of Mee’s Noodle House at 922 Second Avenue
These dumplings were as light as air and perfectly cooked. The dumplings were plump and filled with a mixture of Shrimp and other seasonings. They tasted perfect with just a touch of soy sauce.
The delicious Shrimp Lo Mein
The Shrimp Lo Mein was studded with lots of perfectly cooked shrimp, vegetables and freshly made noodles that are made inhouse. The only problem with the dish was the button mushrooms that I had to pick out. I do not know why they use these since they are not used in dishes in China. I discovered that the restaurant is quite the neighborhood hang out for people living at Stuyvesant Town and Peter Cooper Village. Everyone was talking neighborhood gossip.
The front of Tipsy Scoop Barlour at 217 East 26th Street
On my way home, I stopped at Tipsy Scoop Ice Cream store for dessert. I wanted to have one of their infused ice cream sandwiches. So I ordered the Sprinkle Cookie Cake Batter Vodka Martini ice cream sandwiches. Talk about a dessert that takes the edge off after a long day.
The inside of Tipsy Scoop at night
The neon lights of this popular ice cream shop where all the ice cream is infused with liquor
The ice cream sandwiches here are fantastic. The alcohol in the ice cream is so subtle and sweet you don’t notice until you finish it. Then it hits you and relaxes you. This is the best dessert after a long day.
The Sprinkle Cookie Cake Batter Vodka Martini infused ice cream sandwich
The Sprinkle Cookie Cake Batter Vodka Martini infused ice cream sandwich
Yum!
I took the long walk through Madison Square park on the way back to the Port Authority at night. The pictures I get from that park are just breathtaking at night and I never get tired of the views.
The views of Manhattan at night are quite spectacular from Madison Square Park
I finished walking the streets of Gramercy Park in the early evening while watching the lights turn on in all the buildings surrounding the area. It is quite a site seeing all the homes lit while watching the office buildings all over the neighborhood work their magic. It is quite the place both day and night and in all seasons. Gramercy Park is a true Manhattan neighborhood.
I never tire of the views of Manhattan at night.
Please read my other blogs on Gramercy Park:
Day Three Hundred and Twenty Walking the Borders of Gramercy Park:
It has been one busy summer. In between walking the neighborhoods of Manhattan, I have been revisiting neighborhoods, attending events that I had in the past like the Coney Island Sand Castle Building contest and the Dutchess and Ulster County Fairs. I wanted to spend more time at them and I needed new pictures at all of these events (see my full blog, MywalkinManhattan.com for all these interesting blogs). That and I have been exploring the Jersey Shore towns like Point Pleasant and Seaside Park and Heights to really see what is beyond their Boardwalks. It has been a productive summer since graduation running back and forth between the Hudson River Valley and the Jersey Shore.
As I get ready for the school year to begin in a week and a half, I have more places to see and experience. Still in between all this I want to volunteer time at the Soup Kitchen and planning trips outside the City too experience more of New Jersey. Each day of the Month of August is like planning “D Day”.
Gramercy Park is such an interesting neighborhood. From the vibrant commercial areas to the historical parks, Gramercy Park has a lot of hidden treasures tucked here and there throughout the neighborhood. It seems though, along the neighborhoods Avenues, I would have been expected to see more classic architecture and beautiful stonework, I experienced experienced a more commercial environment with modern buildings. Still tucked here and there along the Avenues were many gems of the past and some beautiful little parks.
The Gramercy Park Historic District plaque
I started my walk along the Avenues of the neighborhood with a walk up the Irving Place Street and walked around the park to Lexington Avenue on the other side of the park. Irving Place and Lexington Avenue are separated by Gramercy Park’s north and South borders.
Gramercy Park in full bloom in the Summer of 2024
The section of the neighborhood is shared with the Union Square neighborhood as the lines are blurred from street to street between Gramercy Park, Union Square and the Flatiron District. This neighborhood has distinct architecture, beautiful parks including Gramercy Park, part of the old Rose Hill Farm estate and Stuyvesant Square, part of the former estate of Dutch Governor Peter Stuyvesant.
I started my walk on the southern part of Gramercy Park along the historical Irving Place with its historic homes and restaurants. I passed 4 Irving Place which the first couple of floors were under scaffolding. I admired the clocktower on the top of the building, the beautiful embellishments and just the elegance of the building. The building is home to Consolidated Edison (ConEd).
The was designed by architect Henry Janeway Hardenbergh and architectural firm of Warren and Wetmore in the Neo-Classical design. The first phase of the building was started in 1911 and both phases were finished by 1929. The original section of the building is in the picture with the wings of the building to both sides (Wiki).
I passed 4 Irving Place, the Con Ed Building, just as twilight hit the building and you could see the beauty in its shadows.
Its clock told the time of the early evening.
The next morning when I walked past it again, you could see the true beauty of its design.
I also noticed that the roof top held a more intricate design than I noticed the night before. Look up at its intricate details to admire its beauty. This is part of the originally designed building.
Once I turned onto Irving Place, the old core of its industrial past gave way to the bohemian village it would become and stay in the future. This was once ‘THE’ neighborhood to live in and has stayed that way since even through the rough times of Union Square.
The most impressive object you will see in the neighborhood is this bust of Washington Irving that sits outside the Washing Irving Campus on Irving Place.
Artist Friedrich Beer was a German born artist known for his works on busts of famous individuals.
The neighborhood goes from commercial to more residential as you get further up Irving Place and closer to Gramercy Park. The borders of Union Square overlap with Gramercy Park and the Flatiron District between East 18th and East 20th streets so I revisited buildings that J had seen before. If people went in a Time Machine to Manhattan from 100 years ago they would still see the same buildings but with totally different uses.
The Washington Irving house at 122 East 17th Street and Irving Place (Washington Irving never lived here)
The “Irving House” was built by Peter Voorhis between 1843 and 1844, along with the adjacent two houses at 45 and 47 Irving Place. The original tenants of 49 Irving Place (at that time referred to as 122 East 17th Street) were Charles Jackson Martin, an insurance executive, and his wife, who would reside there from 1844 until 1852. Henry and Ann E. Coggill would live in it in 1853, and in 1854 it would become the home of banker Thomas Phelps and his wife Elizabeth, who would remain until 1863 (Atlasobsucra.com).
The front of the house facing Irving Place
The first mention in print of Irving having lived in the house came in the Sunday Magazine Supplement of the New York Times on April 4, 1897. The article is a human interest story about Elsie de Wolfe and the means and methods she used to decorate “Irving’s house.” In 1905, de Wolfe would become known as the first professional interior decorator and it appears this article is an early attempt at publicity for her. As for the information about Irving, the article takes enormous liberties (actually, it flat-out makes things up), claiming that Irving had conceived of the house himself and was very particular about the architecture and design (Atlasobsucra.com).
The entrance to the house at 122 East 17th street
The plaque on the house dedicated to the writer created by artist Alexander Finta
In 1930, a restaurant called the Washington Irving Tea Room was operating in the basement of the building and in 1934 a plaque sculpted by Rodin-student Alexander Finta was put up on the north facade that would cement the story in the public consciousness. Today, the surrounding area remains covered in references to Irving, from the large art installations in the nearby W Hotel to the Headless Horseman pub on 15th Street(Atlasobsucra.com).
Artist Alexander Finta was a Hungarian born artist who moved to the United States in 1923. He had studied mechanical engineering in his own country and had studied with Auguste Rodin. His is known for his elaborate busts. He spent the remainder of his career at 20th Century Fox Studios (Wiki)
All along the Irving Place corridor, the street is lined with interesting and historical buildings many of them turned into restaurants or inns. There are many historic plaques in this neighborhood and some creative architecture. The first building that caught my eye was 53 Irving Place, which is the home of Pierre Loti Wine Bar.
The home of Pierre Lotte Mediterranean Restaurant at 53-55 Irving Place was the home of O Henry
When I looked at the side of the building near the entrance, I was this historic plaque that said that this was the home of author William Sidney Porter (O. Henry). The author lived here from 1903-1907 and wrote the “Gift of the Magi” while living here and eating at Pete’s Tavern across the street (Wiki).
The historic plaque for author O Henry at 53-55 Irving Place
Down the road at is Pete’s Tavern, one of the most famous and the oldest literary restaurants in the City. The restaurant was founded in 1864 as the Portman Hotel and then in 1899 when changed to Healy’s Cafe when it was run by John and Tom Healy. Then in 1899, it was bought by Peter D’ Belles and renamed Pete’s Tavern. The restaurant was a ‘Speakeasy’ during prohibition and the dining rooms have not changed much over the last over hundred years (Pete’s Tavern website).
Pete’s Tavern was busy on the night of my first part of the walk.
The painting outside of Pete’s Tavern of the Speakeasy years
Pete’s Tavern was busy both nights that I passed it. I had not eaten there in over a decade when I had a holiday dinner there with friends by I remember the food and service being excellent. The restaurant is really special during the Christmas holiday season from what I can remember.
My friends Barbara, Lillian and I after dinner at Pete’s Tavern in the early 2000’s
Another restaurant I went to before my friend, Barbara, moved to Florida was a Friend of the a Farmer at 77 Irving Place, a farm to table concept before it became very popular. I remember the food being wonderful but the place being a bit noisy. She lived on the fringe of Gramercy Park and had passed this restaurant many times and had wanted to try it that evening.
Another great restaurant is Friend of a Farmer at 77 Irving Place
Across the street, I passed this apartment building at 76 Irving Place. I loved the outside embellishments on the building and the friendly looks you get from the statuary. The building was built in 1897 by architect Lyndon P. Smith (Corcoran Group).
You have to look up to admire the details of 76 Irving Place
The entrance to 76 Irving Place with its tiny angels
This woman guards the front of Irving Place like guard
This woman greets you at 76 Irving Place
The classic architecture of the block especially as you get closer to Gramercy Park changes from smaller apartment buildings to brownstones lining the parks southern border. Gramercy Park offers some of the most interesting architecture. This ivy covered building that impressed me so much as the sun was going down is at 80 Irving Place.
This building at East 19th street and Irving Place is typical for the buildings that once lined this neighborhood
The house was built as a single family mansion between 1853 and 1854 and had been the home of the prominent Wood family and then to actress Agnes Ethel Tracy. Since 1987, it has been a single family home again. What I thought was interesting was that the house was used in the movie “Working Girl” as Sigourney Weavers character’s home (DaytoninManhattan.com).
Look up at the beautiful details of 81 Irving Place
81 Irving Place is one of the most beautiful apartment complexes in the city that I have come across. The embellishments along the building are some of most detailed and elegant I have seen. This prewar Co-Op was built in 1929.
The details along the windows
The embellishments of the building
The dragons and demons that adorn the windows
The embellishments of the building
The unusual creatures at the doorways
The embellishments of the building
The creatures guarding the windows
The embellishments of the building
The rooftop gardens are protected by these griffins
The building has a whimsical almost storybook imagine of creatures protecting their home.
Where I want my future home to be when I retire to the City and can afford it is 19 Gramercy Park South. I have always loved this building since I fell in love with the neighborhood over thirty years ago. I always wanted a home with a key to Gramercy Park. The building has that classic turn of the last century look about it and it has always been my dream to live here when I retire. I need to hurry and win the lottery.
My dream home would be at 19 Gramercy Park South with a key to the park
I had thought this was a apartment building but it is actually a single family mansion with 37 rooms. It was built in 1845 and when the mansion was extended by Stamford White in 1887 was the home of socially prominent Stuyvesant-Fish family. It is currently back to being a single family mansion (Wiki).
I did the walk around the Park and continued along Lexington Avenue from East 20th to East 23rd Street. There is more magnificent architecture along the way. Small details that will surprise you and things that will stare you along the walk.
I walked along Lexington Avenue where the campus of Baruch College, which is part of the CUNY system, starts. One of its stand out buildings is The Lawrence and Eris Field Building, also known as the 23rd Street Building by the college. This building opened in 1929 and the ornamented Italian Renaissance revival style façade on 23rd Street is constructed of limestone and brick and engraved with “The College of the City Of New York.” (CUNY Website)
17 Lexington Avenue-The Lawrence and Eris Field Building, also known as the 23rd Street Building on the Baruch College Campus.
The Baruch College campus is located on the border of Gramercy Park and Kips Bay showcasing the unique architecture of the campus. Many of the buildings on this side of campus are going through a renovation so watch the scaffolding.
The coat of arms on the side of the building
The middle coat of arms on the side of the building
Coat of arms on the side of the building
The building on the Baruch Campus that I admired was the was the Baruch College Administration Center whose entrance is at 135 East 22nd Street. I loved the Art Deco details on the building. These seemed to represent all aspects of business.
The side of the Baruch College with its Art Deco details
Details on the CUNY building-The Baruch College Administration Center Building in its glory
The front of the Baruch College Administration Center at 135 East 22nd Street
The elaborate details on the building give it its Art Deco appearance. The Art Deco Administrative Center at 135 East 22nd Street was built in 1937–1939 as the Domestic Relations Court Building, and was connected to the Children’s Court next door (Baruch College Website).
Across the street from CUNY campus, the Sage House at Four Lexington Avenue. Sage House was built in 1913 for the Russell Sage Foundation, a social welfare nonprofit that was an early advocate of social work and urban planning (Streeteasy.com).
The building is a pre-war office building designed by Grosvenor Atterbury in the Italian Renaissance palazzo style. It has a rusticated red sandstone façade, vaulted ceilings, and carved decorative shields (Wiki). The building was converted to Coop apartments in 1986. The building next to it was the Hotel Gramercy Park which is currently closed and under renovation. Even though the hotel is closed, you can still peek through the scaffolding and see its elegance.
I myself have some wonderful memories of this hotel. I had stayed at the hotel back in 1993 while working at Macy’s Herald Square, when it was a European style old hotel with the large rooms with a view of the park. It had the most amazing bathtubs to sink into the night before I left to assist in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. Years later, when Danny Meyers opened the Italian restaurant, Maialino, in the lobby in the early 2000’s, I remember taking my father there for Father’s Day and having the most delicious Roast Pork with potatoes that were cooked in the roast’s juices. It was a fantastic meal and the most perfect Father’s Day. Funny how I still remember that meal almost twenty years later.
The Hotel Gramercy Park at Two Lexington Avenue
The Hotel Gramercy Park was designed by architect Robert T. Lyons and was built by brothers Bing & Bing in 1924 and the hotel opened in 1925. The extension of the hotel along East 21st Street was designed by architects from Thompson & Churchill and built between 1929-1930. The hotel is designed in the Renaissance Revival style (Wiki). Across the street from the hotel is the historic One Lexington Avenue.
Built in 1910 by noted architect Herbert Lucas. This twelve-story intimate cooperative features extraordinary design details including a stately limestone and brick façade, timeless-elegant marble lobby and wood-paneled elevator still attended full-time by the elevator operator (Streeteasy.com).
The Cyrus West Field plaque on One Lexington Avenue where his home once stood
One Lexington Avenue was once the home of Cyrus West Field, who was considered the ‘Father of the American Cable” and helped lay the first trans Atlantic cable in 1858. When it broke, it was laid again in 1866 (American Experience).
The original house on the same corner in 1866 (NY Public Library)
Looking back up Lexington Avenue in the Summer of 2024, you can see how this neighborhood just keeps changing and still getting better. The old buildings are finding new uses and this part of the neighborhood is still very exclusive.
Looking up Lexington Avenue from Gramercy Park
The views uptown are so beautiful and will look even better when all the scaffolding comes down on all of these buildings. Still this part of the neighborhood is very impressive.
I walked down East 23rd Street to Third Avenue and it is not as impressive. This part of the neighborhood is more commercial the further you go from the park and most of the architecture here and on Second and First Avenue is mostly businesses housed in new buildings. Here and there though, tucked in the corners there is still a glimpse of the neighborhood’s past. You just have to look up to appreciate it.
Walking down Third Avenue from East 23rd Street
It may be all new construction but it is still impressive. Just a different feel and character. Third Avenue is more of a commercial district of larger stores and small restaurants.
Interesting street art on a Third Avenue mailbox. At least someone has some optimism
Tucked in between the modern architecture and some older brick buildings was this elaborate white building that stood out amongst its more plain neighbors and was one of the few older buildings left on Third Avenue.
The beauty of 190 Third Avenue known as Scheffel Hall
Scheffel Hall was designed by architects Henry Adams Weber and Hubert Drosser and was built between 1894 to 1895. This part of Gramercy Park was known as ‘Kleindeutschland’, ‘Little Germany”, when it had a large German immigrant population. The building served as a beer hall and restaurant at that time and was modeled after an early 17th Century building in Heidelberg Castle, the “Friedrichsbau” (Wiki). The building stands out for its beauty and elegant details that make this building special. There is nothing like it in the neighborhood and it a testament to its German past.
I finished my walk down Third Avenue and turned the corner at Second Avenue. As I walked down Second Avenue past Church of the Epiphany at 375 Second Avenue, I came across the historical plaque for the marker of the original “Rose Hill Farm” that was once part of this neighborhood and whose borders now make up the ‘Rose Hill’ neighborhood in Midtown Manhattan. All that remains of the farm today is the current Gramercy Park, which is a corner of the old farm.
The site of ‘Rose Hill Farm’, the home of General Horatio Gates and his second wife, Mary Valens
Rose Hill was originally a farm owned by James DeLancey and it was sold to Honorable John Watts, a member of the Colonial Assembly in 1747. The farm was 130 acres between East 30th to East 21st Street from what is now Irving Place to the East River. John Watts later married Ann DeLancey and they raised their family here. At the start of the Revolutionary War, as Loyalists they returned to England and left the estate to their son, John, who inherited it in 1789 (Wiki).
My blogs on Visiting the Rose Hill section of Manhattan:
Revolutionary War General Horatio Gates and his second wife, Mary Valens, bought the farm in 1790 and built a new mansion on the corner of what is now Second and East 22nd Street. They lived here for the next twenty years with him a member of the assembly in 1800 and active in New York Society at that time. He died on the farm in 1806 and the estate was parceled out later on when the new grid pattern for Manhattan was created (Wiki/Horatio Gates website).
As I looked up from the plaque, I admired the front windows of the Church of the Epiphany at 373 Second Avenue and all the beautiful plantings in front of the church. The original church that had been built in 1870 burned down in 1963. The current church was designed by the architectural firm of Belfatto & Pavarini and was finished in 1967. The stained glass windows of the Madonna and Child were from the original church (Wiki/Church of the Epiphany website).
Walking down at East 23rd Street, it was a short walk down the Avenue where I passed 303 Second Avenue and the beautiful details of this famous piece of the neighborhood history. This is the one really standout building on the block with interesting embellishments all along the windows and doorways.
303 Second Avenue-The Rutherford Place Medical Building
The Rutherford Medical Building was designed by architect Robert H. Richardson and was finished in 1902. This was a very active hospital delivering sixty percent of the infants in Manhattan at that time before a full part of the hospital. It was converted to luxury condos in recent years (Wiki/Streeteasy.com).
The historic plaques
The historic plaques
The elegant details of the The Rutherford Building
You have to look at the top of this building to really appreciate it
As you cross over from East 17th Street on both sides of Second Avenue, you are greeted by the greenery of Stuyvesant Square, what is left of the former estate of ‘Peg Leg’ Peter Stuyvesant, the Governor of the Dutch colony of New Amsterdam. The park was in full bloom and on a hot day, the shade trees are a pleasure to be under.
As I walked down Second Avenue, I passed the beauty of Stuyvesant Square Park
I walked through the park, admiring the paths of flowers and flowering trees. People were outside reading books and listening to the makeshift concert that a resident was putting on. There is a dirty little secret to Stuyvesant Square Park is on the edges of the park there is a lot of loitering by delivery guys and homeless in the corners of the park. The park could also use a little pruning and sprucing here and there.
Looking up Second Avenue from Stuyvesant Square
Stuyvesant Square in full bloom
The Stuyvesant family was the influence of this wonderful park. In 1836, Peter Gerard Stuyvesant, the great great grandson of Peter Stuyvesant and his wife, Helen Rutherfurd sold four acres of the original Stuyvesant Farm to the City for $5.00 as a public park under the stipulation that the City build a fence around it. It took an almost lawsuit from the city to finally build the fence in 1847, which is the fence that surrounds the park today (NYCParks.org).
The colorful flowers surrounding the fountains
In the middle of the park on the right side as you are walking down Second Avenue is the statue of Governor Peter Stuyvesant in all of his glory.
The statue of ‘Peg Leg’ Peter Stuyvesant, the Governor of the Dutch Colony
Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney was an American born New York artist who had studied at the Arts Student League of New York and apprenticed under several well known artists.
The Stuyvesant Square Park in the Summer of 2024
Around the corner from the park as I walked its perimeter was the beautiful testament to God in the form of St. John The Baptist Greek Orthodox Church at 143 East 17th Street
St. John The Baptist Greek Orthodox Church at 143 East 17th Street
Built in 1885, designed by Schwartzmann & Buchman, with a baroque facade that was altered in 1957 by Kyriacos A. Kalfas (Wiki).
The detailed windows of St. John’s Church at East 143 17th Street
As I reached East 14th Streets, I could see that the neighborhood along Second and Third Avenue did not have the same historic appearance as the side streets of the neighborhood. Here and there tucked in between modern buildings, there were a few gems,
This prewar apartment building was built in 1910. You have to really look up to see the elegant details of the building and its decorative embellishments.
The beautiful entrance to the apartment building
The classic embellishments of the building
Walking through the other side of Stuyvesant Square I got better views of 303-305 Second Avenue
This city squirrel just ignored me as it chopped away at some nuts
The beauty of Stuyvesant Square in the Summer of 2024
The historic plaque at Stuyvesant Square
Lunch was a slice of Sicilian pizza at Lunetta Pizza at 245 Third Avenue. I had passed Lunetta Pizza many times while walking through the neighborhood and noticed that it was one of the few restaurants in the neighborhood that did not change their prices after COVID. They are still one of the most reasonable pizzerias in Manhattan (See my review on DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com).
The slice was amazing. Their red sauce is spiced perfectly and that is what makes the structure of the pizza. The Sicilian pizza here is crisp and pillowy, the way it should be.
The prices are extremely fair and are still pre-COVID. They do not rip you off.
The selection of pizzas is extensive
The Sicilian slices were pillowy and crisp with a deep, rich flavor because of their amazing red sauce.
I finished walking the Avenues of Gramercy Park with enough time to take the trip out to Brooklyn for the pre-West Indian Parade event at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
My blog on the special event at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden:
The Carnival like atmosphere right before the West Indian Parade
After the event was over, I headed back to Manhattan for dinner. I had been so impressed by Lunetta Pizza’s food the afternoon, that I bypassed my favorite restaurants in Brooklyn and went back to dinner there.
I had a very impressive Linguini with a Meat Sauce and I then made a better judgement call on the food and it is truly excellent. The meat sauce was so flavorful and the pasta perfectly cooked and a very generous portion size that it made the perfect dinner.
My dinner at Lunetta Pizza, the Linguini with Meat Sauce
Yum!
As I left the neighborhood that night I passed a plaque in the sidewalk from the Mayor Abe Beame Administration (now these were some bad years in the City) dedicating a tree for the beautification of the neighborhood. It just shows has the City just keeps morphing with the cycles the City goes through over the years. Manhattan just keeps changing.
The plaque from the neighborhood beatification program in the 1970’s. This plaque is near East 23rd and Third Avenue. It is also coming out of the ground.
As I passed Bryant Park that evening, twilight had come and the lights of the City were coming on. New York City may have its problems, but there still is a beauty to it.
Passing Bryant Park that evening
The next part of the walk will be visiting the Streets of Gramercy Park.
I started my walk today with the threat of a major snowstorm. When I went outside, it was cold but blue skies and sunny. There were two times that the skies got cloudy with a small snow flurry and that was it. So much for an “Artic Plunge” in New York City. That lasted about twenty minutes each. So much for the big storm. It ended up being sunny and cold the rest of the afternoon.
I journeyed back to the Lower Garment District to walk the side streets and see what has developed in the neighborhood. Lots of renovations and new construction are part of the neighborhood fabric as this section of Midtown South is going to be redeveloped with new office buildings and apartments. Most of the building stock is rather old and needs a renovation.
The blocks between Ninth Avenue and Sixth Avenue along West 33rd and 32nd Streets is dominated by several older buildings: The former Farly Building is now the Moynihan Train Hall, the former Penn Station is now Madison Square Garden, the Hotel Pennsylvania is now being demolished for an office building and the former Gimbel’s Department is now the Manhattan Mall. New uses for classic buildings that is a trend in many neighborhoods in Manhattan.
The James A. Farley Building was designed by the firm of McKim, Mead & White and was designed in the Beaux Arts style, the sister building to the former Penn Station (where the current Madison Sqaure Garden now sits). The current renovation of the building to turn the dream into a reality is by the architectural firm of Skidmore, Owings & Merrill (Wiki).
I was able to walk the halls and staircases of the complex that afternoon and the interiors are still not finished with a few of the restaurants now opened but the polished floors and new artwork is in full view. The public bathrooms are a nice change from the ones in Penn Station. The rest of the complex will be open by the spring.
The new rendering of the James A. Farley Building to the Patrick Moynihan Train Hall (Vno.com)
Daniel Patrick Moynihan was a former politician and diplomat.
The new Moynihan Building at night
Across the street from the Moynihan Train Hall is Madison Square Garden, one of the most famous sports areas in the country. It is what replaced the famous Penn Station that was knocked down in 1968.
Madison Square Garden is one of the most controversial buildings in the City when it replaced the old Penn Station. The majestic building that was designed by McKim, Mead & White in the Beaux-Arts style and opened in 1910 was closed in 1963 and knocked down for the current building. The outcry from this started the Historic Preservation Movement in the City and prevented future buildings from demolition. These types of buildings are now protected under New York City’s Landmark Preservation Act. The biggest problem cited at the time was that the rail service was declining, and the building was getting too expensive to maintain (Wiki).
Madison Square Garden at 4 Pennsylvania Plaza
The former Penn Station that was knocked down in the 1960’s
With the reconfiguration of these grand train depots today not just at Grand Central Station (see my blogs on Midtown East and Murray Hill) as well as Penn Stations in Philadelphia and Washington DC, I could only imagine what it would be like today. We are now seeing it in the new Moynihan Train Hall in the former James A. Farley Post Office building.
The Hotel Pennsylvania was built in 1919 by the Pennsylvania Railroad and was designed by architect William Symmes Richardson from McKim, Mead & White. It was designed by the firm who designed Penn Station across the street and the limestone facade mirrored that of the station. The hotel has gone through many ownerships over the last one hundred years and returned to the name Hotel Pennsylvania in 1991. The hotel closed for business in April 2020 and is in the process of being demolished. There will be a new series of office buildings built in the area (Wiki).
The Hotel Pennsylvania at 401 Seventh Avenue (Wiki)
We will always have Glenn Miller though. Pennsylvania 6-5000.
Song “Pennsylvania 6-5000” by Glenn Miller
Behind the hotel is the old Gimbel’s Department Store building that closed in 1986, a year and a half before I started at Macy’s. Gimbels had always been considered our rival for years, but I think because of the sheer size of Macy’s I have a feeling that we beat them in sales. Gimbels had come to New York City by way of Philadelphia by the Gimbel’s family. It was founded by Adam Gimbel in 1887. The store in Herald Square opened in 1910 in the classical style by architect Daniel Burnham (Wiki). The store stretches from West 33rd to West 32nd Streets along Broadway.
Gimbel’s Department Store at Sixth Avenue and 33rd Street
When the store closed in 1986, it was renovated and was called A & S Plaza when that store moved into the space. When A & S closed in the mid 1990’s when it merged with Macy’s, the store was renovated again and now is called Manhattan Mall. It is mostly office space now (Wiki).
In the middle of this former shopping district and just south of Herald Square is Greeley Square named after Horace Greeley, the editor of the New York Tribune. The square was acquired by New York City in 1846 and turned into the park. The statue that dominates the southern end of the park was designed by sculptor Alexander Doyle in 1890 (NYCParks.org).
Greeley Square was named after Horace Greeley, who published the first issue of The New Yorker magazine and established the New York Tribune. He was also a member of the Liberal Republican Party where he was a congressman and ran for President of the United States after the Civil War.
Publisher and Politician Horace Greeley famous for his quote “Go West, young man, Go West”
The Horace Greeley statue is located in the park just south of Herald Square in Greeley Square.
The statue was created by artist Alexander Doyle. Alexander Doyle was an American born artist who studied in Italy with several artists. He is best known for his marbles and bronze sculptures of famous Americans including many famous Confederate figures that have come under fire recently.
Once you leave Greeley Square and walk south you will be entering what is left of the old Wholesale district where once buyers used to come into these stores to commercially buy goods for their businesses. Slowly all of these businesses as well as most of the Flower District is being gentrified out with new hotels, restaurants and bars replacing the businesses. It seems that most of the district is being rebuilt or renovated or gutted.
The Broadway side of the park opposite the old department stores starts some of the most beautiful architecture in South Midtown. This portion of Broadway until you reach the Battery has the most unique stonework and embellishments on the buildings that show the craftsmanship of another era when companies-built headquarters that were meant to last. These surround the whole square and are always fun to admire.
One building that faces Greeley Square is 1270 Broadway at the corner of West 33rd Street.
1270 Broadway, known once as the Wilson Building, was built between 1912 and 1913 in the class Beaux Arts style. It now serves as an office building. You have to look up from the square to admire its beauty.
Next to the building is across the street at 1265 Broadway, the former Browning, King & Company building. The building was built in 1910 by developer William R.H. Martin for commercial use. The building was designed by architects Townsend, Steinle & Haskell in brick, stone and terra cotta. The interesting decorative top was designed for the Men’s retail company Browning, King & Company. You have to look up at the detail work and the eagle at the roof of the building (Daytonian).
1265 Broadway-The Browning, King & Company building
Another building that stands out and sadly boarded up at this time is the former Martinique Hotel at 49 West 32nd Street (1260-1266 Broadway). This was also built by William R. H. Martin in 1898 with the design by architect Henry Janeway Hardenbergh in the French Renaissance style. The hotel had a notorious reputation in the 1970’s and 80’s as a welfare hotel that closed in 1988. It is now a Curio Hotel of Hilton Hotels (Wiki).
I remember this hotel well when I worked for Macy’s in the late 1980’s and all the people yelling and screaming outside the hotel with fire trucks all over the place. The hotel had been nothing but a problem for almost twenty years. It has since been bought by the Hilton Group and is now a historical luxury hotel.
1260 Broadway-49 West 32nd Street-The Martinique Hotel
A couple of buildings that stand out when walking down Broadway are 1234 Broadway on the corner of Broadway and West 31st Street, an elegant Victorian building with a standout mansard roof and elaborate details on the roof and windows. I did not realize that it was the Grand Hotel built in 1868 as a residential hotel. The hotel was commissioned by Elias Higgins, a carpet manufacturer and designed by Henry Engelbert. Currently it is being renovated into apartments (Daytonian). It shows how the City keeps morphing over time as this area has become fashionable again.
1234 Broadway in all its elegance, the former Grand Hotel
After rounding the southern part of Greeley Square, I headed back down Sixth Avenue to West 30th Street, the southern border of the neighborhood with the ever-changing NoMAD (North of Madison Square Park). This southern section of South Midtown as I have mentioned in other blogs is being gutted, knocked down and rebuilt into a hip area of the City with trendy hotels, restaurants and stores.
When I made my way back down West 32nd Street past all the construction and then made my way down West 31st Street. There were some interesting buildings in the neighborhood. As I passed the southern parts of the larger buildings and walked down the street between Seventh and Sixth Avenues, I had to stop when I saw the beauty of St. Francis of Assisi Church at 135 West 31st Street. The building was so elegant and decorative with its interesting architecture and art details.
St. Francis of Assisi Church at 135 West 31st Street (Church Photo)
The church has an extremely interesting history and has been subject to the changes of the neighborhood. The parish was founded in New York City in 1844 and the church found that it was outgrowing it’s building. In 1890, the parish started plans for a new church. The church was designed by architect Henry Erhardt, and it was designed in the Gothic Revival style and was completed in 1892 (Wiki).
What I had not realized that this was the parish of Father Mychal Judge who was the Fire Chaplain for the FDNY. He had rushed down to the site on 9/11 and had been giving last rights to a victim when he was hit by debris and killed instantly. He had sacrificed so much that day to the men and women of New York City (Wiki).
FDNY Chaplain Mychal Judge the way he should be remembered (Wiki)
Next to the stairs leading to the church was a spooky and very realistic statute of someone who looks like they are begging. The work is entitled “When I was hungry” by artist Timothy P. Schmalz.
Artist Timothy P. Schmalz is a Canadian born artist and is known for his large-scale works. His work is considered spiritual, and the artist says that “he is devoted to creating art that glorifies Christ” and that an artist “needs an epic subject to create epic art” (Artist Bio). The artist attended the Ontario College of Art.
Timothy P. Schmalz YouTube video
On my way back from Sixth Avenue, I stopped at 4 Boys 99Cent Pizza at 252 West 31st Street for a slice of pizza (see my review on TripAdvisor). The pizza here is very good and made a nice snack to warm me up as I continued to walk down the street.
The pizza at 4 Boys 99Cent Pizza at 252 West 31st Street is very good
I made my way back done West 31st Street admiring the architecture of the Moynihan Train Hall and looking at the detailed work done on the building. They really brought this building back to life making it look like it had when it had opened.
West 30th Street takes you more in the heart of what is left of the Garment District with the last of the small furrier shops when this used to be the Fur District forty or fifty years ago. The Fur District still has about a dozen stores scattered between West 30th and 29th Streets just off Seventh Avenue between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. The fact that women are not wearing fur the way they did fifty or sixty years ago, and rising rents are pushing a lot of these businesses out of the area.
I passed this interesting piece of street art on the corner of West 30th Street and Eighth Avenue
(Totem art was the artist and I could not find anything on them)
There are several beautiful and interesting buildings as you walk down West 30th Street. Another elegant church is St. John’s the Baptist Roman Catholic Church at 213 West 30th Street. The congregation started in Manhattan in 1840 and had a rough start in its history. The current church was built between 1871 and 1872 in the French Gothic style and was designed by architect Napoleon LeBrun. Mr. LeBrun is noted for designing many churches in New York City at the time (Wiki).
St. John’s the Baptist Roman Catholic Church at 213 West 30th Street at night.
The grounds of the church during the Spring of 2024.
The beauty of the church over the Summer of 2024
The summer foliage in 2024
The entrance to the church in the Summer of 2024
Christmas decorations in 2025
Another fascinating building that is part of the street fabric is the former 23rd Precinct Building at 138 West 30th Street. It really looks like an old police station. The precinct building was built in 1907-1908 and designed by architect R. Thomas Short of Harde & Short. The area was once known as the ‘Tenderloin’ and was one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in the City. It is now being used as the Traffic Control Division of the NYPD (Wiki).
Another building right down the block is ‘The Cass Gilbert” building at 130 West 30th Street. Originally called the S.J.M. Building for fur trader Samuel J. Manne, the building had been designed by architect Cass Gilbert and was built in 1928. The building’s decorations include friezes of animal reliefs and winged beasts at the entrance of the building. It had been originally built as offices and showrooms (Wiki).
“The Cass Gilbert” building at 130 West 30th Street
As you walk back to Ninth Avenue, you will notice how much more residential that blocks are between Eighth and Ninth Avenues along both West 30th and West 29th Streets. This is where the last of the small intimate brownstones and low-level apartment houses still exist.
This area had become very gentrified over the last twenty years, and I would watch the renovations happening especially on the block of West 29th Street, where all the brownstones lining the park that is part of the Penn Apartments. It is a colorful line of buildings facing the park.
Most of the block has non-descript buildings and a slew of smaller hotels. In a few years, I predict that most of these blocks will be knocked down to build new office high rises and leave most of the Garment District behind. There are still a few furriers closer to Seventh Avenue left, holding guard for those who still enjoy mink and ermine coats. It is a thrill to see all the high-quality coats and hats that are still popular amongst customers who still appreciate this type of clothing.
The Fashion Institute of Technology had some interesting paintings on the back part of the campus that have disappeared with the new construction of the campus. Still the students do an interesting job decorating the walls around the building.
The interesting paintings at FIT
The paintings around the back part of The Fashion Institute of Technology,
The creativity of the FIT students
One building does stick out and that is located at 214 West 29th Street. This unusual building was built in 1925 as an office building and now serves as a We Work office space. The unusual decorations at the entrance include strange statues of grinning males (or could be females as i could not get close enough without the doorman looking at me).
I sat down and relaxed in Greeley Square and watched as the few tourists sat down or were taking pictures of Macy’s and Herald Square just above the park. On the other side of the square is Koreatown (please see my blog on that neighborhood) and there is always a lot of bustles on that side of the park with its slew of great restaurants and now traffic due to the opening of the Martinique Hotel again after another renovation.
There are two wonderful restaurants at the Hotel New Yorker one of them is the Tick Tock Diner at 481 Eighth Avenue
That evening I finally made a trip inside the Hotel New Yorker inside of using the hotel as a starting point for my walks in this neighborhood. I ate at the Tick Tock Diner, the corner restaurant of the hotel at Ninth Avenue and West 34th Street (see my review on TripAdvisor). This busy deli is part of the hotel so you can see what the lobby looks like as well and see the other restaurants in the hotel.
I was starved and ordered a Turkey Club Sandwich with fries ($16.95) and a Pepsi. The food at Tick Tock is really good but pricey (see review on TripAdvisor). The club sandwich was really good, and the sandwich was layered with freshly roasted turkey and fresh lettuce and tomato. The portion size was very generous, and I enjoyed the meal. I even saved room for a piece of Apple Pie A la Mode ($9.95), which the waitress said was homemade at the restaurant but tasted more frozen and baked there.
The turkey club was delicious
The restaurant was still a nice experience and a great way to end the day. What we are seeing now in the Lower Garment District is a neighborhood is total transition and in the next ten years will probably mirror the changes that are going on in the Hudson Yards. This will be the lower extension of Midtown and with the new train hall a new hub of the City.
mywalkinmanhattan 