I never realized that walking around Washington Heights would take so long but there is a little secret to the neighborhood. It isn’t flat! I have never walked up and down so many hills. This part of the island reminds you that hills and rock formations still exist on the island of Manhattan. You just don’t see them that much in Midtown.
I started my day just getting into New York City. The buses run so funny in the morning. Then it was a grueling day at the Soup Kitchen that I volunteer at some mornings when I am in the city. Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen was buzzing away today with a chicken curry entrée that had people coming back for thirds and fourths and we did not close until almost 12:40pm. Then it was the trip uptown. It does take a while to get to that part of Manhattan and as usual there were a lot of surprises that awaited.
When you get out of the A Train at 190th Street, the tunnel leading to the street on both sides has the most colorful street art on all the walls. Really take your time to look at the ‘tag’ work. This is now considered an art form in the city (as long as it does not disrupt or damage property) and you really have to look at the fringe neighborhoods, like Red Hook and Bushwick, for the inspirations. This tunnel shows a colorful display of street art that is actually allowed in the station and look to both walls and ceiling for the creative juices of many of these artists. The work is just amazing with colorful symbols and letter adorning the entire tunnel on the way out.
191st Subway Station is ever changing.
My walk today consisted of the entire lengths of the avenues in eastern Washington Heights. I walked the entire lengths of both Audubon Avenue and St. Nicholas Avenue and covered almost all of Amsterdam Avenue having to finally stop at 181 Street because it was getting dark, and my feet were killing me. I walked both sides of the avenues from the tip of the neighborhood at 192nd Street to the border of the neighborhood at 155th Street. Needless to say, it was a long trip.
190th Street and Bennet Avenue Subway Station
Looking down Bennett Avenue on a Fall day
The beautiful rock formations by the subway stop
The formations were just as beautiful in the Spring of 2026 when all the trees were in bloom and you could really see the formations through the trees. I think that the views during the Summer were nicer than the ones in the Fall.
West 193rd Street
West 193rd Street
The entrance to the 190th Street subway
The rock formations on Bennett Avenue
Audubon Avenue is more residential with many pre-war buildings that are in the middle of renovations or have already been renovation. St. Nicolas Avenue is more commercial with small businesses and street vendors filling up most of the storefronts along the avenue. Both of these Avenues run the tip of the neighborhood, where when you walk up the hill of Fort George Avenue, you are really entering the heights.
The start of Audubon Avenue at the bend with Amsterdam Avenue
My first stop was Esmeraldo Bakery at 538 West 181st Street (See review on TripAdvisor.com and DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com), a small hole in the wall bakery that offers an array of sweets and hot snacks. I enjoyed a beef and rice croquet, which are well-known in many of the Dominican bakeries I have visited in Washington Heights and a large, twisted cinnamon sugar doughnut, which was a messy, sugary delight.
Esmeraldo Bakery 538 West 181st Street
https://mywalkinmanhattan.com/tag/esmeraldo-bakery/
For the price of $2.00, this gem of a bakery is a reasonable place to fill up on carbs for the long walk around the neighborhood. The service is super friendly, and they speak both English and Spanish. Their selection is really good and take a few extras along the way.
The pastries at Esmeraldo Bakery are delicious and reasonable
The sugar donuts at the bakery are excellent
Audubon Avenue offers some beautiful pre-war apartment buildings, many of which like the rest of the neighborhood are in the process of renovation. A lot of this neighborhood is under scaffolding. There are unique brownstones and townhouses to view on the way down the street in between the buildings.
Walking down Audubon Avenue in Washington Heights
Yeshiva University sits in the low 180’s and this area during the day is dominated by college students and professors, who are milling around between classes and a lot of the businesses in the area cater to this population with many nice restaurants and stores. When classes let out in the evening, you are on a very business campus and would not know that you are still in Washington Heights.
While I was walking down Audubon Avenue, I was passing a small bodega at 175 Audubon Avenue and noticed this interesting mural outside on the sides of the building. This colorful painting shows a depiction of life in Washington Heights. I thought it was fun and whimsical.
The mural outside of 175 Audubon Avenue
The mural up close by Artist Snoeman
https://www.instagram.com/thesnoeman/?hl=en
(No biography online but is a NYC based artist)
I visited the Audubon Avenue playground in the afternoon to cool down. What a great playground that was very active that afternoon. Kids were playing all over the place, splashing in the fountains and running around all the swings and slides. The best was that they had GREAT public bathrooms and they were clean. This is a rarity when you have to go in Manhattan.
The entrance to Audubon Playground
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/audubon-playground
https://www.explorenycparks.com/parks/audubon-playground
My review on TripAdvisor:
The inside of this active park
The best is the woman who sells the Dominican ices outside the park. When it is in the 80’s, there is nothing like a Cherry Mango ice to cool you down.
Another way of cooling down is the delicious Dominican ices available for sale. I love the Cherry Mango.
Audubon Avenue stops at 165th Street to merge into St. Nicholas Avenue and a very busy shopping area. At the merger of St. Nicholas and Amsterdam Avenues, you walk past the C-Town grocery store to find the Sylvan Terrace, which is 20 identical homes that were once part of the entrance to the Morris-Jumel Mansion (See review on TripAdvisor.com and VisitingaMuseum.com), once home to Aaron Burr’s second wife, Eliza Jumel.
The Morris-Jumel Mansion at 65 Jumel Terrance
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
The Morris-Jumel Mansion gardens in the early spring
The gardens in bloom
Eliza Jumel with her family
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eliza_Jumel
The house was closed again in Spring of 2026 but you could walk around the grounds and it was a beautiful sunny day when I walked around.
Morris Jumel grounds
Morris Jumel estate grounds
The Morris Jumel estate grounds
Walking through the paths of the Morris Jumel estate
Walking some the paths at the Morris Jumel estate
Sylvan Terrace was built in 1882 and was once part of the original Old Post Road from New York to Boston. The homes that now surround the street were built by James E. Ray between 1890 and 1902. The architect was influenced by the Queen Anne, Romanesque and Renaissance Revival influences and the homes are built with the Queen Ann style in mind (IloveWashingtonHeights.com).
These homes have been painfully restored back to their true glory and rumored to be going for about a million each. Their uniform painting and beautiful cobblestone streets leading to the mansion seem totally out-of-place with the rest of the neighborhood. So, climb the stairs and enjoy the walk down the street. This pathway was once part of the East Post Road that led to Boston.
The Sylvan Houses
The other side of the Sylvan houses
The Sylvan Houses on Amsterdam Avenue
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sylvan_Place
https://www.untappedcities.com/sylvan-terrace-hidden-street-wooden-homes-nyc
https://ephemeralnewyork.wordpress.com/tag/sylvan-place
At the end of the block is the Morris-Jumel Mansion (see review on TripAdvisor & VisitingaMuseum.com), which was unfortunately closed the day I was there, but I got to walk the ground and sit in the mansion’s colorful garden that had yet to give way to the fall season. There was still a bit of summer left in that afternoon and it was nice to enjoy it walking the flowery paths and stone benches.
It has a great view of the river and the neighborhood below as this area was once the summer and weekend homes of the wealthy downtown when upper Manhattan was still considered the ‘wilderness’. Another version of this you can see at the Gracie Mansion in the 90’s which I will also see in the future.
Morris-Jumel Mansion gardens in the summer months
Take some time to stroll these paths and then walk around the Jumel Terrace Historical District, which is lined with turn of the last century apartment buildings and classic brownstones that are starting to be decorated for Halloween. They have a classic Edith Wharton look to them. This neighborhood is an oasis for the rest of the area and is tucked into this small three block radius. I took some time to really see how everyone had renovated their homes.
Jumel Terrace Historic District
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jumel_Terrace_Historic_District
As you walk out of the Historical district, at 157th Street, you end up in a dead-end street with the picturesque Bushman Steps, a staircase that leads to Edgecombe Avenue and the very edge of High Bridge Park. On a sunny afternoon, this little park offers much refuge to the warm afternoon and a beautiful view to boot. This pocket park really makes the street pop and gives it a feel of ‘Old New York’, lined with trees and flowers.
Reaching the intersection of Audubon and Amsterdam Avenues in Washington Heights
Looking up Audubon Avenue from the intersection
Looking up Amsterdam Avenue from the intersection
At the end of 155th Street and St. Nicholas Avenue, there is a series of unique brownstones at various stages of renovation. This row of brownstones is in various stages of renovation but like the rest of the area will be highly desirable in the future. These homes really stick out amongst the more modern buildings. My goal to 155th Street was complete as another more modern building is on the other side of 155th Street showing that many changes are happening in this area.
On the way back up St. Nicholas Avenue to the other side of Audubon Avenue, the schools were letting out and students and parents alike to converging to the bakeries and fast-food restaurants that line the area.
My next stop was at El Manantial Bakery at 325 St. Nicholas Avenue (see review on TripAdvisor) for pastilitos and a guava empanada. The pastilitos were filled with both chicken and beef and the guava empanada was filled with a guava jelly that all were really good. They also have terrific Apple Turnovers.
The pastilitos had just been fried and they had that juicy greasiness that something gets right out of the fryer. Make sure to order the beef ones. You will need a snack by this point. I only spend about $3.25 for two pastilitos, one pastry and a coke. Quite a steal!
El Manantial Bakery at 325 St. Nicolas Avenue
https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/5943491/el-manantial-bakery/
My review on TripAdvisor:
The inside of El Manadial bakery
The Apple turnover
On the side of the building was this interesting mural that had been painted here since the last time I visited entitled “Migration is an Earth Right” by Artist Carla Torres.
Mural on the bakery
By Artist Carla Torres
Artist Carla Torres
https://www.instagram.com/carlisimaultra/?hl=en
Artist Carla Torres is an Ecuadorian born but she relocated to New York City in 2006, looking to expand her horizons and vision as an artist. She works across several media including drawing, painting, illustration, animation, and murals. Since then her work has been exhibited in several galleries locally and internationally including the Queens Museum and the Noguchi Museum. Her work has also been awarded by the most prestigious illustration awards in the US, Canada, and Europe (CarlosTorres.com).
As I walked up Amsterdam Avenue, I came across more works by the artist Snoeman on the outsides of various bodegas. These works are a lot of fun and take time to really look at the detail work all along the walls.
The mural outside of 164 Amsterdam Avenue
The mural up close
The snowman at 166th Street and Amsterdam Avenue
Across Amsterdam Avenue there were two interesting murals by Artist TotemGraffx.
Street art on 166th Street
Street art on 166th Street
The artist of these murals TOTEMGRAFFX
Artist Misael Rivas
https://www.instagram.com/totemgraffx
The artist Misael Rivas (also known as TOTEM) is a NYC born artist native to Washington Heights and is a graduate of the High School of Art & Design. The artist is known for his bold murals and Graffiti art (Artist bio).
The mural on Amsterdam Avenue and 170th Street
(I could not find the artist on this work)
I walked through Highbridge Park that was packed with people trying to stay cool. The pool was packed with people and the park had residents cooling under shade trees.
The entrance to Highbridge Park on Amsterdam Avenue
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/highbridge-park
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highbridge_Park
My review on TripAdvisor:
The first thing I did was visit the Highbridge Water Tower, which I always enjoy admiring. This class stone building was part of a system that used to bring fresh water from Upstate New York to the City.
The Highbridge Water Tower
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highbridge_Reservoir
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
The tower
The doorway entrance
The windows of the Highbridge Water Tower
Highbridge Park from the water tower
Highbridge Park and the view of the Bronx
The stairs leading to the lower level of the park from the water tower
Then I walked around the park at Amsterdam Avenue. This part of the park by the pool was very active and their were loads of people in the pool keeping cool.
Walking through the park
I then walked through the Sunken Playground inside the park looking for a bathroom (none are open and all under renovation)
The Sunken Playground in Highbridge Park at 167th Street and Edgecombe Avenue
https://www.nycgovparks.org/facilities/playgrounds/327
https://livingnewdeal.org/sites/highbridge-park-sunken-playground-new-york-ny
My review on TripAdvisor:
Before I entered the park, I noticed this very vibrant mural outside the entrance of the park.
The mural outside the wall of the playground
The artists on the project by Artolution
Artist Joel Bergner
https://www.instagram.com/joelartista/?hl=en
(From the Arist’s bio)
Joel Bergner is an artist, educator and organizer of community art initiatives with youth in conflict-affected and marginalized communities around the world, from Syrian refugee camps to American prisons; the favelas of Brazil to an orphanage in South Africa.
Artist Angela Zirbes (AKA ‘Angfzir’)
Angfzir is the artist handle for Angela Zirbes ( Angela F.Z. ), a New York-based muralist, illustrator, and painter. She is highly recognized for her involvement in collaborative public art, community murals, and gallery group exhibitions.
Joel Bermudez
(Could not find a bio on the artist)
I came across this video on the artist Joel Bergner.
Joel is the CEO and Co-Founder of the non-profit organization Artolution. In this role, he mentors and supports local artists in vulnerable communities to lead their own youth art programs, affecting the lives of thousands of children who participate in hundreds of locally-led projects each year.
This little cat was hiding in the park
This little cat peeked out at me as I left the park. He had a very inquisitive look towards me.
The walk up and down St. Nicholas you will see one of the most active shopping districts that will compare to 207th and 181st Streets. So many things can be bought and sold on this avenue. Some of the most interesting street vendors are located between 180th to 187th Streets selling ices, pastilitos, fried pork, fried pastries, dolls, books, household appliances and even Christmas ornaments.
The shopping district on St. Nicholas Avenue in the Spring of 2026
On the side of the St. Elizabeth School at 162 West 187th Street, I saw this fascinating painting on the side of the school. I could not get close enough to get near it but I thought it was interesting. It was not there the last time I had visited the neighborhood.
The St. Elizabeth School at 612 West 187th Street
https://saintelizabethschool.org
The work was by Artist Xmental
https://www.facebook.com/XmentalInc
Xmental (often stylized as XMental or Xmental Inc.) is a prominent NYC-based graffiti and street art collective and non-profit organization, founded by Ralph “Ralphy” Perez. XMental provides alternative, creative pathways for at-risk youth and individuals on probation. By partnering with NYC’s NeON Arts and the Department of Probation, they help young people channel their graffiti talents into legal, recognized public art (BK Reader.com/Brooklyn Arts Alliance).
While most of the buildings in the neighborhood are simple brink apartment buildings, here and there are embellishments that stand out. I saw this lion staring back at me around 182nd Street. It was one of the only embellishments to stand out to me.
Lion stating back at me on St. Nicholas Avenue building
Street art on St. Nicholas Avenue
Street art St. Nicholas Avenue
People were out in droves when school let out and many children were begging their parents for a snack. This can be a very active Avenue with many interesting restaurants to try in the future. St. Nicholas Avenue buzzed with activity from one end of the avenue to the other, especially as you arrived back at the hospital point by 168th Street. Columbia Presbyterian is taking over all the blocks at this location, changing the demographics and buildings.
I revisited the area again during the Christmas holiday season and this neighborhood is very lively with all the restaurants and stores in full swing. The area is also nicely decorated with light displays and music. There are a lot of nice restaurant and shops to choose from along the 181st Street corridor from Broadway to Amsterdam Avenue. Their merchant’s association did a nice job decorating the shopping corridor.
Washington Heights at 181st Street Shopping district at night during Christmas
The 181st Street Shopping district at Christmas time
My last part of the walk took me up and down the Amsterdam Avenue, which as it gets dark can get quite gloomy with its industrial feel to it. Parts of the it by High Bridge Park both by Fort George Avenue and between 181st and 170th Streets can be pretty, for the most part gentrification has left this part of the neighborhood alone. This was the part of the park near Yeshiva University.
Walking through the park
The garden in bloom in Highbridge Park
Walking through Highbridge Park
Highbridge Park at 190th and Amsterdam Avenue
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/highbridge-park
My review on TripAdvisor:
The artwork celebrating the Knicks recent win (I do not know the artist)
By the time I rounded 155th Street and arrived at 181st, it was starting to get dark, and my feet and legs were ready to give out. Even the snacks did not help as I started to get hungry and with the dark started to come the fall cold nights. I have a lot more to walk in this neighborhood but just as much to explore.
The rock formations along Amsterdam Avenue near 191st Street
Please read my other blogs on walking Washington Heights. It was a big area to cover:
Day Twelve: Walking West of Broadway to West 170th Street:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/98
Day Thirteen: Walking Broadway west of 193rd to 165th Streets
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/113
Day Fourteen: Walking south down Broadway west of 174th to 164th Streets
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/122
Day Fifteen: Walking west of Broadway from Washington Heights to Harlem:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/139
Day Seventeen: Walking the border of Riverside Drive in Washington Heights from 181st to 153rd Streets:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/163
Day Eighteen: Walking down Broadway from Wadsworth Terrace to Wadsworth Drive:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/184
Day Nineteen: Walking the East side of Broadway from 193rd to 155th Streets:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/192
Day Twenty-One: Walking Washington Heights from Amsterdam Avenue to Highbridge Park:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/210
Days Twenty-Five and Twenty-Six: Crisscrossing Broadway from 181st to 155th Streets:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/225
Day Thirty-Six: Visiting the Little Red Lighthouse and the Morris-Jumel Mansion in Washington Heights:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/850
Day Forty-One: Walking Dyckman Street from 207th Street to 155th Street and the Polo Grounds Apartments:
https://wordpress.com/post/mywalkinmanhattan.com/1376
Places to Visit:
Highbridge Park
190th & Amsterdam Avenue
New York, NY 10040
https://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/highbridge-park
https://www.nycgovparks.org/park-features/highbridge-park/planyc
Open: Sunday-Saturday 6:00am-11:00pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
Sylvan Terrace Houses
Between 161st and 160th Street
New York, NY 10032
Morris-Jumel Mansion & Historic District
65 Jumel Terrace
Washington Heights, NY 10033
(212) 923-8008
http://www.morrisjumel.org/briefhistory/
Open: Please visit the website for times
My review on TripAdvisor:
My review on VisitingaMuseum.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/visitingamuseum.com/252
Places to Eat:
Esmeraldo Bakery
538 West 181 Street
New York, NY 10033
(212) 543-2250
https://www.menupix.com/nyc/restaurants/127558/Esmeraldo-Bakery-New-York-NY
Open: Sunday 7:00am-8:00pm/Monday-Friday 5:45am-10:00pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
DiningonaShoeStringinNYC@Wordpress.com:
https://wordpress.com/post/diningonashoestringinnyc.wordpress.com/1364
El Manantial Bakery
1220 Saint Nichols Avenue
New York, NY 10033
(212) 795-0055
https://www.menupix.com/nyc/restaurants/380326059/El-Manantial-Bakery-New-York-NY
Open: Sunday-Saturday 5:30am-9:30pm
My review on TripAdvisor:
Walking around the Sylvan Terrace:
I found this posted YouTube by Beth Frank and I give her credit for it. It is walking around Sylvan Terrace and the Morris-Jumel Historic District
